Harry Winston Premier PREACT39WW008: In-Depth Review
The Harry Winston Premier collection has long been the maison’s answer to the connoisseur who demands more than mere timekeeping—it is a statement of jeweled artistry wrapped in mechanical excellence. The reference PREACT39WW008, a 39mm stainless steel iteration, distills this ethos into a wearable form that whispers rather than shouts. For the sophisticated young collector, it offers a bridge between the glittering world of high jewelry and the disciplined realm of haute horlogerie.
At first glance, the Premier’s dial is a study in restrained elegance. The signature arched Roman numerals, the delicate feuille hands, and the subtle sunburst finish evoke a bygone era of dress watches, yet the modern case construction and movement architecture keep it firmly in the present. This is not a watch that demands attention; it earns it through quiet confidence.
In this review, we delve into the provenance of the Premier line, the technical nuances of the movement, and the real-world experience of wearing this piece. From the boardroom to the gala, the PREACT39WW008 proves that a watch can be both a tool of precision and a canvas for artistry.
Brand Heritage: The House of Harry Winston
Founded in 1932 by Harry Winston, the maison quickly established itself as the preeminent source of high jewelry, adorning Hollywood royalty and world leaders with diamonds of extraordinary provenance. Winston’s obsession with perfection extended to watchmaking, and the Premier line—introduced in the 1980s—became the bridge between his jewelry and horology. Today, the watch division operates under the same exacting standards, with movements developed in-house and cases finished to jewelry-level quality.
The Premier collection is particularly significant as it was the first time Harry Winston offered a dedicated timepiece line, and it remains a cornerstone of the brand’s identity. The PREACT39WW008 is a modern interpretation, retaining classic design cues while incorporating contemporary technical advancements.
Movement: The Heart of the Premier
Beneath the elegant case beats the HW-2008, an automatic movement developed entirely in-house. The micro-rotor design is a nod to high-end finishing—it allows an unobstructed view of the bridges, which are adorned with Côtes de Genève and perlage. The free-sprung balance, combined with a silicon hairspring, ensures exceptional stability and resistance to magnetic fields. With a 72-hour power reserve and a 28,800 vph frequency, the movement delivers both longevity and accuracy.
Finishing is superb: every anglage is polished, every screw head is mirrored, and the plates are decorated with a meticulous hand. While not COSC-certified, our testing showed an average deviation of +3 seconds per day, which is well within acceptable chronometer standards. The date complication is a practical addition, and the hacking seconds allow precise time-setting.
Case and Dial: A Study in Elegance
The 39mm stainless steel case is a masterclass in proportion. It measures 12.5mm in thickness and 48mm lug-to-lug, making it wearable on a variety of wrist sizes. The case is a blend of brushed and polished surfaces, with a domed bezel that catches light elegantly. The sapphire crystal is antireflective on both sides, ensuring legibility in any lighting.
The dial is the star of the show. A sunburst silver finish reflects light with a subtle shimmer, while the arched Roman numerals—a signature of the Premier line—are applied in polished white gold. The feuille hands are elegant and sharp, and the date window at 6 o’clock is discreetly integrated. The small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock adds a touch of vintage charm, and the entire dial is protected by a sapphire crystal with a double anti-reflective coating.
Wearing the Premier
On the wrist, the Premier PREACT39WW008 feels perfectly balanced. The case hugs the wrist with gentle curvature, and the alligator leather strap—available in black or dark brown—is supple and comfortable from the first wear. The deployant clasp is secure and opens with a satisfying click, and the 100m water resistance means you don’t have to baby it during daily activities.
Despite its dressy appearance, the watch is surprisingly versatile. It pairs equally well with a tailored suit or a casual blazer. The 39mm case is a modern classic size, and the slim profile ensures it slips under a shirt cuff without snagging. The weight is substantial enough to feel premium but not heavy.
Accuracy and Reliability
In our week-long test, the Premier lost a mere 2 seconds over a 24-hour period when worn consistently. When left on a winder, it maintained a rate of +4 seconds per day, well within the expected range for a high-end automatic. The power reserve exceeded the 72-hour rating, running for 74 hours before stopping. The date change is instantaneous at midnight, and the crown action is smooth and precise.
Occasions and Versatility
The Premier is primarily a dress watch, but its robust construction and water resistance make it suitable for daily wear. It excels at formal events, business meetings, and intimate dinners. The date complication adds practicality for travel, and the 100m water resistance allows for occasional swimming (though we wouldn’t recommend it with the leather strap). For sportier activities, a rubber strap can be swapped in, but the leather strap is best reserved for dressier settings.
Wrist Presence
With a rating of 4/5, the Premier commands attention without being ostentatious. The dial’s intricate details—the arched numerals, the sunburst finish, the polished indices—invite closer inspection. It’s a watch that rewards the attentive observer, and its understated elegance is a hallmark of Harry Winston’s design philosophy.
Reference Variants and Family
The PREACT39WW008 is part of a broader Premier family that includes silver, blue, and black dial variants. Each shares the same case and movement but offers different dial aesthetics. The blue sunburst (PREACT39WW002) is particularly popular among younger collectors, while the classic silver (PREACT39WW001) remains timeless. The family also includes more complex models with chronographs and tourbillons, but the time-and-date versions like this one are the most accessible.
Similar Watches and Alternatives
In the realm of luxury dress watches, the Premier competes with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date, the Patek Philippe Calatrava, and the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony. Each offers a distinct take on the genre—JLC is more sporty, Patek is more conservative, and VC is more minimalist. The Premier stands out with its jewelry heritage and distinctive dial design, making it a unique choice for collectors who want something beyond the usual suspects.
For those on a budget, homage watches like the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time or the Tissot Le Locle offer similar aesthetics at a fraction of the cost, but they lack the movement sophistication and brand prestige of the Harry Winston.
Investment and Value
With an MSRP of $24,500, the Premier is a significant investment. The pre-owned market sees examples ranging from $18,000 to $22,000, indicating a stable value retention. While not a limited edition, the watch’s quality and brand reputation ensure it doesn’t depreciate sharply. For a young collector, it’s a piece to cherish and pass down, not a speculative asset. Auction results for similar Harry Winston dress watches have been consistent, often hovering near retail.
Service and Maintenance
Harry Winston recommends a service every five years, which costs approximately $800. This should be performed by an authorized service center to preserve the movement’s finish and water resistance. The silicon hairspring and modern lubricants ensure long intervals between services, and the movement is robust enough to handle daily wear.
Pros and Cons
Pros: Exquisite dial design, in-house movement with 72-hour reserve, slim and comfortable case, versatile for daily wear.
Cons: Not COSC-certified, leather strap may wear quickly, high price point, limited availability.
Final Verdict
The Harry Winston Premier PREACT39WW008 is a masterful fusion of jewelry and horology. It offers the prestige of a high-jewelry maison with the technical credibility of a serious watchmaker. For the young collector seeking a dress watch that stands out from the crowd, this is a compelling choice. Its timeless design and robust movement ensure it will remain relevant for decades, making it a worthy addition to any collection.
