The Harry Winston Ultimate Emerald Signature: A Gem of Horology
When Harry Winston, the 'King of Diamonds', turned his hand to watchmaking, he brought a jeweler's eye to the wrist. The Ultimate Emerald Signature (ref. HJTQHM32WW001) is the purest expression of that vision—a watch that resembles a faceted gemstone rather than a conventional timepiece. In this review, we explore why this quartz-driven platinum piece has captured the hearts of collectors who crave something different.
Design and Case Architecture
The case is the star of the show. Measuring 42mm across, it is not round but emerald-cut, with beveled edges that catch light like a diamond's facets. The platinum construction gives it a substantial presence, yet the thickness of just 8.5mm keeps it elegantly slim. The lugs are integrated into the case, curving downward to accommodate the alligator strap, and the entire surface is polished to a mirror shine. The sapphire crystal is slightly domed, echoing the curvature of a polished stone.
The black lacquer dial is minimalist to the extreme: only two hands and the Harry Winston logo at 12 o'clock. There is no date, no seconds subdial—just pure, unadulterated time. The hands are diamond-shaped, a nod to the brand's heritage, and they glide silently over the dial. The absence of any text other than the logo keeps the dial clean, allowing the case to dominate.
Movement: The Quartz Conundrum
Purists may balk at the idea of a quartz movement in a $28,000 watch, but Harry Winston's decision is deliberate. The quartz caliber, based on a Swiss ETA unit, is incredibly reliable and accurate, but more importantly, it allows the case to be exceptionally thin. A mechanical movement would have added at least 3mm to the thickness, compromising the aesthetic. The movement is decorated with Geneva stripes and a gold rotor, though it's hidden behind a solid caseback. While not in-house, it is adjusted in five positions and offers a battery life of about three years.
For those who prioritize mechanical complexity, this watch will disappoint. But for those who see a watch as a piece of jewelry first, the quartz movement is a practical choice. It ensures the watch is always ready to wear, never requiring winding or setting after a few days of rest.
On the Wrist
Wearing the Ultimate Emerald Signature is a unique experience. The rectangular case sits differently than a round watch, and the curved lugs ensure it conforms to the wrist. The weight of platinum is noticeable but not excessive—it feels substantial without being heavy. The alligator strap is comfortable from day one, and the deployant clasp is secure and easy to operate.
Under a shirt cuff, the watch slides in effortlessly, its slim profile making it ideal for formal occasions. The black dial and platinum case are versatile, pairing well with both black-tie and business attire. It's not a sports watch by any stretch, but it can handle a day at the office or a dinner party with equal grace.
Accuracy and Practicality
Quartz movements are renowned for their accuracy, and this one is no exception. Expect deviations of less than 10 seconds per month. The battery lasts approximately three years, and the movement is protected against magnetic fields and temperature fluctuations. The only downside is the 30-meter water resistance—enough for splashes but not for swimming. This is a dress watch, so that's acceptable.
Investment and Value
Harry Winston watches are not known for high resale values, and the Ultimate Emerald Signature is no exception. Pre-owned examples typically fetch between $22,000 and $30,000, a slight depreciation from the $28,500 retail price. The trend is stable, with no signs of dramatic appreciation. For the collector, this is a watch to buy for its aesthetic and brand heritage, not as an investment. However, the platinum case and limited production ensure it will never lose its value entirely.
Comparisons and Alternatives
In the realm of rectangular luxury watches, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and Cartier Tank are logical alternatives, but both offer mechanical movements and a more traditional approach. The Reverso is reversible and has a rich history, while the Tank is an icon of design. The Harry Winston, however, is unique in its emerald-cut case, which is unlike any other. If you want a watch that looks like a gemstone, there is nothing else quite like it.
For those on a budget, homage pieces like the Seiko SWR052 offer a similar aesthetic for a fraction of the cost, but they lack the platinum case and the prestige of the Harry Winston name.
Conclusion
The Harry Winston Ultimate Emerald Signature is a polarizing watch. It challenges the notion that luxury watches must have mechanical movements, and instead celebrates design and material. It is a piece of wearable art, a tribute to the emerald cut that made Harry Winston famous. If you are a collector who values uniqueness over horological complexity, this watch is a worthy addition. If you are a purist, it might be a hard pass. But for those who see the beauty in simplicity and the elegance of a gemstone, the Ultimate Emerald Signature is a triumph.
