Issey Miyake Fragrance review

Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Ettore Sottsass Edition Review

Two thousand hand-blown flacons, one classic aquatic floral: Sottsass meets Miyake.

By Vivir ·
In October 2009, Issey Miyake released a perfume that was, in the most literal sense, a piece of design history: the L'Eau d'Issey Ettore Sottsass Edition. Only 2,000 hand-blown glass flacons were produced, each translating a 1997 sketch by the Italian architect and designer Ettore Sottsass into three-dimensional form. Inside those flacons sat not a new formula but the house's established L'Eau d'Issey Eau de Parfum — the deeper, more floral and more tenacious reading of Jacques Cavallier Belletrud's 1992 aquatic landmark. That distinction matters enormously for anyone approaching this release today. The Sottsass Edition is not a flanker in the conventional sense: it is a commemorative vessel, a limited-edition object whose contents are the classic women's EDP. Collectors buy it for the glass; wearers buy it for the juice; and the two audiences rarely overlap as neatly as the marketing implies. What follows is a full analytical review — the design heritage, the composition, the behaviour on skin, the place of the edition within the L'Eau d'Issey lineage, and its standing as a collectible. Where the public record is thin, this review says so rather than inventing detail.
Longevity
4.0
Projection
3.0
Sillage
3.0
€300–$436 (100ml, original limited-edition retail)
SpringSummerFallWinter

Accords

floral white floral fresh rose aquatic ozonic

Notes Pyramid

Top
Rose WaterRoseMelonLotusCyclamenFreesia
Heart
Lily-of-the-ValleyLilyCarnationWater Peony
Base
Exotic WoodsTuberoseAmberSandalwoodMuskOsmanthusCedar

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The first thirty minutes are dominated by a cool, dewy rose water accord sharpened by melon and lotus. The effect is wet rather than sweet — a transparent, ozonic floral haze with a faintly aqueous shimmer that reads as clean skin and cut stems. Cyclamen and freesia add a pale, slightly powdery lift, keeping the opening bright and uncluttered.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

Between roughly one and two hours, the composition turns decisively white-floral. Lily-of-the-valley and lily take the lead, their green, slightly waxy freshness supported by a soft water peony and a whisper of carnation — the carnation here is a clove-tinted shadow rather than a spice. The rose recedes into a supporting role, and the aquatic character becomes less about melon and more about the cool, humid atmosphere of a flower market.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

From four hours onward, the fragrance settles into a warm, creamy base that is far more substantial than the opening would suggest. Sandalwood and cedar give structure, amber and musk give a soft, close-to-skin glow, and osmanthus contributes a faint apricot-leather nuance that keeps the finish from turning generic. Tuberose appears late and quietly, adding a buttery floral roundness rather than a full-throated indolic statement.

Performance Dashboard

Longevity 4.0/5

Long-lasting — user reports consistently place it at 8 hours or more on skin, with the base notes persisting on fabric well beyond that.

Projection 3.0/5

Moderate — roughly arm's length for the first two to three hours before settling into a close, skin-adjacent wear.

Sillage 3.0/5

Moderate. It leaves a discernible but polite trail rather than filling a room; you are scented, not announced.

When to Wear

SpringBest
SummerBest
FallOK
WinterAvoid
daily wearofficecasualspring/summer daytime

Pros & Cons

  • A genuine design artefact: 2,000 hand-blown flacons from a 1997 Ettore Sottsass sketch
  • Houses the well-regarded L'Eau d'Issey Eau de Parfum — a proven, long-lasting aquatic floral
  • Excellent longevity for a fresh composition, with a warm woody-floral base
  • Versatile and office-appropriate, particularly in spring and summer
  • The fragrance itself is not exclusive to the edition — the same EDP is available in standard bottles
  • Original retail of roughly 300 EUR / 436 USD for 100ml represents a heavy premium over the standard flacon
  • Secondary-market pricing is volatile and dependent on bottle condition and completeness
  • Limited availability makes it impractical as a daily reach for most wearers

Price & Value

€300–$436 (100ml, original limited-edition retail)
The premium buys the flacon, not the formula. At original retail the edition sat far above the standard L'Eau d'Issey EDP, and on the secondary market prices fluctuate considerably depending on whether the hand-blown glass, presentation box and documentation are intact.

“Poor value as a perfume purchase, defensible value as a design collectible. Buy it because you want the Sottsass object on your shelf — not because you want the scent, which can be had for a fraction of the cost.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported for this edition. As a single-run release of 2,000 flacons produced in October 2009, the Sottsass Edition was not subject to the reformulation cycles that affect mass-market perfumery; the juice inside is the standard L'Eau d'Issey Eau de Parfum composition, so any variation between bottles reflects the general history of that EDP rather than the edition itself.

Who It's For

Ideal For

  • Wearers who prefer transparent, aquatic florals over heavy orientals
  • Office and daytime settings where restraint is a virtue
  • Collectors of design objects and limited-edition perfume flacons
  • Those who already love the original L'Eau d'Issey and want a longer, fuller version

Not Recommended For

  • Wearers seeking bold projection or a statement evening scent
  • Those who dislike melon, ozonic or calone-adjacent freshness
  • Buyers shopping purely on price per millilitre — the edition carries a substantial premium
  • Anyone expecting a unique formula; the juice is the standard L'Eau d'Issey EDP

The Family

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Final Verdict

The L'Eau d'Issey Ettore Sottsass Edition is two objects in one: a genuinely significant piece of design history and a well-executed, long-lasting aquatic floral that has been on the market in other bottles since the 1990s. As a fragrance alone it is elegant, versatile and quietly tenacious; as a purchase it only makes sense if the hand-blown Sottsass flacon is the point. Collectors should seek it out. Wearers should simply buy the EDP.

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Issey MiyakeL'Eau d'IsseyEttore Sottsassaquatic florallimited editionJacques Cavallier Belletruddesigner bottle