issey-miyake Fragrance review

issey-miyake L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Summer (Annual Releases)

Capturing the Essence of a Tropical Escape with Alberto Morillas

By Vivir · · Updated
In the world of luxury perfumery, few houses command the same minimalist respect as Issey Miyake. Since the 1990s, the brand has been synonymous with a specific kind of 'watery' elegance—a rejection of the heavy, opulent scents of the previous era in favor of something clean, architectural, and avant-garde. The annual 'Summer' releases have become a cornerstone of the brand's identity, offering a seasonal ritual for collectors who seek to revisit the DNA of the original L'Eau d'Issey through a sun-drenched lens. The 2017 edition, crafted by the incomparable Alberto Morillas, represents a pivotal moment in this series where the house leaned into a more vibrant, tropical narrative. As a trend analyst at Vivir, I see these annual releases not just as flankers, but as olfactory postcards. They capture the zeitgeist of the year's travel trends and the evolving definition of 'freshness.' In 2017, we saw a shift away from pure aquatic notes toward 'exotic realism'—the idea of using fruit not just for sweetness, but for texture and atmosphere. Morillas achieved this by moving away from the traditional yuzu-heavy heritage of the house and introducing a lush, kiwi-driven heart that feels both modern and nostalgic for a beachside sunset.
$40-$70
SpringSummerFallWinter

Accords

aromatic fruity woody fresh spicy citrus sweet tropical fresh earthy

Notes Pyramid

Top
GrapefruitKiwiCoriander
Heart
PineappleNutmeg
Base
CypressVetiver

Performance Dashboard

Longevity

4-6 hours

Projection

Arms-length for the first 90 minutes

Sillage

Moderate

When to Wear

SpringAvoid
SummerBest
FallAvoid
WinterAvoid
Beach daysCasual office wearOutdoor brunchSummer vacations

Pros & Cons

  • Unique kiwi note stands out from typical summer scents
  • Masterfully blended by Alberto Morillas
  • Excellent price-to-quality ratio
  • Refreshing and uplifting in high heat
  • Longevity is typical of an EDT and may require reapplication
  • May be too fruity for those seeking a strictly woody scent
  • Availability can be difficult as it was a seasonal release

Price & Value

$40-$70

“An absolute steal for a Morillas creation if found at discounters.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported; however, annual versions (2012, 2013, 2018) differ significantly in note profile.

The Family

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Similar Fragrances

Light Blue Eau Intense by Dolce & Gabbana
Polo Ultra Blue by Ralph Lauren
Invictus Aqua by Paco Rabanne

Clone Alternatives

Armaf Hunter Intense (for the fruity-woody vibe)
Zara Seoul

Layering Ideas

Final Verdict

The 2017 Summer Edition is a masterclass in tropical sophistication. It manages to be playful without being juvenile, and fresh without being generic, making it a standout in the long-running series.

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Summer FragranceIssey MiyakeAlberto MorillasTropicalMen's Style