Introduction
The Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 2 (ref. NE86A) is the latest limited edition from the Japanese micro-brand that has taken the enthusiast world by storm. Founded by independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, Kurono Tokyo has carved a niche for itself by offering meticulously finished dials and cases at a fraction of the cost of Swiss equivalents. The Chronograph 2, with its panda dial and column-wheel chronograph movement, is perhaps the most ambitious release yet.
This review focuses on what matters most: how it feels, how it reads, and whether it survives the rigors of daily life No hype, no fluff – just a honest assessment from a wear-focused perspective.
Brand History
Kurono Tokyo was established in 2018 as a sub-brand of Hajime Asaoka's independent watchmaking studio. Asaoka is known for his high-end creations, such as the Chronograph and the Tourbillon, which command six-figure prices. Kurono was created to offer a more accessible entry point into his design philosophy, with a focus on elegant dials and exceptional finishing. Each release is limited and sells out quickly, creating a fervent following among collectors who appreciate the blend of Japanese minimalism and haute horlogerie details.
The Chronograph 2 is a continuation of this ethos, building on the success of the original Chronograph 1. It retains the signature Kurono aesthetic – a clean, balanced dial with a subtle sunburst finish – but adds a chronograph complication for the first time. The result is a watch that feels both vintage and contemporary, a true testament to Asaoka's design genius.
Movement
At the heart of the Chronograph 2 is the Seiko NE86A, a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch. This is a significant step up from the cam-operated chronographs found in many entry-level watches. The column wheel ensures a crisp, precise start and stop, while the vertical clutch prevents the second hand from jumping when the chronograph is engaged. The movement operates at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and offers a power reserve of 45 hours, which is adequate for daily wear.
While the NE86A is not an in-house movement, it is a well-regarded caliber used in several Seiko and other Japanese brands. Kurono has decorated it with perlage and blued screws, though the finishing is more industrial than haute horlogerie. Still, it's a robust and reliable workhorse that should provide years of trouble-free service. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, adding to the overall appeal.
Specifications Case Diameter: 38mm Case Thickness: 13.9mm Lug-to-Lug: 48mm Case Material: Stainless steel Crystal: Sapphire (domed, with anti-reflective coating) Water Resistance: 50m Lume: None Strap: Black alligator leather with pin buckle The dimensions are well-proportioned for a dress chronograph. adds a vintage touch while keeping the profile slim.Wrist Feel On paper, the 38mm case and 48mm lug-to-lug suggest a versatile size, but the real magic is in the proportions. The case is slim at 13.9mm, and the lugs curve downward elegantly, hugging the wrist without any overhang. The leather strap is supple from day one, and the pin buckle is low-profile. The watch weighs just 85 grams, making it almost unnoticeable during the day. The balance is perfect – it sits centered on the wrist, never rolling or feeling top-heavy.
The chronograph pushers are smooth and tactile, with a satisfying click. The crown is easy to grip, though it's not screw-down – a trade-off for the slim profile. The domed sapphire crystal adds a vintage touch and reduces glare. After a week, I forgot I was wearing it, which is the highest compliment for a dress chronograph.
Accuracy
In our week of testing, the NE86A ran at an average of +4 seconds per day, well within chronometer territory. The rate was consistent whether worn on the wrist or left on the nightstand, thanks to the vertical clutch and column-wheel design. Expect real-world accuracy of +5 to +10 seconds per day, which is excellent for a non-COSC movement.
Occasions
The Chronograph 2 is a versatile piece that shines in formal and dressy settings. Its elegant dial and slim profile make it perfect for weddings, business meetings, and evening events. It also works well for daily wear, especially if you're in a professional environment. The lack of lume and 50m water resistance mean it's not suited for sports or swimming, but that's not its intended purpose. For travel, it's a great companion – the chronograph is useful for timing flights or meetings, and the comfortable strap makes it easy to wear all day.
Wrist Presence
4/5 – The panda dial and domed crystal give it a vintage charm that draws attention without being loud. It's a conversation starter, but not a flashy one. The dial's sunburst finish and applied indices catch light beautifully, making it feel far more expensive than it is.
Reference Variants
The Chronograph 2 was released in two dial variations. The standard NE86A features a white panda dial with black subdials, while the NE86B (released later) offers a reverse panda with a black dial and white subdials. Both are limited to 500 pieces each, and both are equally sought after. The reverse panda is slightly more understated, while the panda is more classic.
Family and Other Models
The Chronograph 2 is part of Kurono Tokyo's growing lineup. The brand has released several other models, including the Chronograph 1 (a simpler two-register chronograph), the Anniversary (a dress watch with a unique dial), and the Mori (a more casual piece). Other notable models include the Toki, Rei, and Classic, each with their own distinct personality. If you're new to Kurono, the Chronograph 2 is an excellent entry point, but be prepared to join a waiting list.
Similar Watches
If you're considering the Chronograph 2, you might also look at the Seiko Presage SRQ029, which offers a similar column-wheel chronograph in a larger case. The Hamilton Intra-Matic 68 is another vintage-inspired option, though it's more casual. The Oris Chronoris is a retro choice with a more tool-like case. Each has its own merits, but the Kurono stands out for its finishing and wearability.
Homages
For those on a budget, there are several homages that mimic the panda dial aesthetic. The Lobinni Chronograph 38mm offers a similar look for around $150, though with a quartz movement. The Pagani Design PD-1644 is even cheaper at $80, but the quality is nowhere near the Kurono. These are not alternatives, but rather a way to appreciate the design without the investment.
Investment Value
The Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 2 has an MSRP of $3,500, but due to its limited production and high demand, it's currently selling for around $4,200 on the secondary market. Pre-owned examples range from $4,500 to $5,500, and the trend is appreciating. With only 500 pieces per dial variant, it's a safe bet for collectors. The brand's reputation is growing, and Asaoka's name carries weight in the horological community. If you can secure one at retail, it's a wise investment.
Service and Maintenance
Kurono recommends a service interval of 5 years, which is standard for an automatic chronograph. The cost is approximately $500, which is reasonable for a movement of this complexity. The movement is a Seiko caliber, so any competent watchmaker can service it, though it's best to use an authorized service center to maintain the warranty. Kurono Tokyo also offers service through their website, making it convenient for owners.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Exquisite dial finishing and design
- Comfortable and slim on the wrist
- Reliable and accurate Seiko movement
- Limited edition with strong resale value
Cons
- No lume – not practical in the dark
- Only 50m water resistance – not for swimming
- Movement is not in-house, though well-decorated
Final Verdict
The Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 2 is a masterclass in dial design and wearability. It's a dress chronograph that feels like a much more expensive watch, and its limited production makes it a collector's dream. If you can find one, it's worth every penny.
