Brand History: Kurono Tokyo and Hajime Asaoka

Kurono Tokyo was founded in 2019 by Hajime Asaoka, a Japanese watchmaker renowned for his handcrafted, Art Deco-inspired timepieces that cost tens of thousands of dollars. Asaoka is a member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), and his work is celebrated for its meticulous finishing and unique aesthetic. Kurono Tokyo was his answer to collectors who wanted Asaoka's design language at a more accessible price point. The brand produces small batches, often limited to a few hundred pieces, and they sell out within minutes.

The Chronograph I, released in 2020, was the brand's first chronograph. It marked a departure from the simple three-handers that had defined Kurono Tokyo, yet it retained the same vintage-inspired aesthetic. The watch was produced in a single run of 100 pieces, making it one of the most sought-after Kurono models on the secondary market. The brand's philosophy is simple: create beautiful, wearable watches that don't require a second mortgage. The Chronograph I embodies that ethos perfectly.

Movement: Seiko NE86 Automatic Chronograph

At the heart of the Chronograph I is the Seiko NE86, a robust automatic chronograph movement. It is not an in-house caliber, but that is part of the value proposition. The NE86 is a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, a combination typically found in much more expensive watches. This means the pushers have a crisp, precise feel, and the chronograph can be started, stopped, and reset without the seconds hand jumping. The vertical clutch also allows the chronograph to run continuously without affecting accuracy, a feature that watch enthusiasts appreciate.

The movement offers a 45-hour power reserve, runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, and contains 34 jewels. It also includes a date function, which is displayed at 4:30 on the dial. While the finishing is industrial rather than haute horlogerie, the NE86 is known for its reliability and ease of service. It is the kind of movement you can trust for daily wear without coddling. The rotor is signed with Kurono Tokyo's logo, a nice touch that adds a bit of exclusivity.

In terms of architecture, the NE86 is a modular design, which means the chronograph module sits atop the base movement. This can sometimes lead to a thicker case, but Kurono Tokyo has managed to keep the Chronograph I reasonably slim at 12.5mm. The movement is also known for its smooth winding and hacking seconds, making it a pleasure to set.

Case, Dial, and Legibility

The Chronograph I features a 38mm stainless steel case that is 12.5mm thick and 45mm from lug to lug. These dimensions are the sweet spot for vintage-inspired chronographs. The case is polished and brushed, with a smooth bezel that frames the dial beautifully. The lugs are elegantly curved, and the case back is solid, engraved with the limited edition number. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters, which is adequate for splashes but not for swimming.

The dial is where the Chronograph I truly shines. It is a silver-white base with two black subdials. The black subdials provide a stark contrast, making the chronograph functions easy to read at a glance. The dial also features a black tachymeter scale on the outer edge, and a date window at 4:30. The hands are black, and the chronograph seconds hand is a subtle red, adding a touch of sportiness. The hour and minute hands are polished, catching the light beautifully. Legibility is excellent in daylight, but there is no lume, so low-light reading is limited to well-lit environments. The crystal is sapphire, which is scratch-resistant and clear.

The panda dial is a classic racing chronograph design, but Kurono Tokyo's execution is more elegant than sporty. The silver-white dial has a subtle sunburst finish that plays with the light, while the black subdials and tachymeter scale add depth. The date window at 4:30 is discreetly integrated, though some purists might prefer no date at all. Overall, the dial is a triumph of vintage-inspired design.

Wrist Feel: A Week on the Wrist

I wore the Chronograph I for seven consecutive days, and it quickly became a favorite. The 38mm case is perfectly sized for my 6.5-inch wrist. The 45mm lug-to-lug ensures it doesn't overhang, and the 12.5mm thickness allows it to slip under a shirt cuff without issue. The leather strap is supple and comfortable from day one, with a pin buckle that is easy to adjust. The strap is black with white stitching, which complements the panda dial nicely.

The watch feels balanced on the wrist. The weight is noticeable but not heavy—it's a reassuring presence rather than a burden. The pushers are easy to operate, and the crown is smooth to wind. I wore it to the office, to dinner, and even to the gym (though I wouldn't recommend that due to the lack of water resistance and lume). It never felt out of place. The only downside is the date at 4:30, which can be a bit awkward to read, but it's a minor quibble.

One thing I appreciated was the lack of sharp edges on the case. The lugs are polished and curve gently, so there's no digging into the wrist. The watch sits flat and doesn't slide around. For a 38mm watch, it has a solid presence without being flashy. I found myself glancing at it frequently, not just to check the time but to admire the dial. That's the mark of a great watch.

Accuracy: What to Expect

The Seiko NE86 is not a COSC-certified movement, so don't expect chronometer-grade accuracy. In my week of wear, the watch gained about 8 seconds per day, which is well within the typical range for this movement. Some owners report variations between -5 and +15 seconds per day. It's reliable and consistent, but if you need atomic precision, you'll be disappointed. For a daily-wear chronograph, it's perfectly acceptable.

I also tested the chronograph function. The pushers have a satisfying click, and the seconds hand starts and stops without any stutter. The reset is instant and precise. The vertical clutch means you can leave the chronograph running without affecting the timekeeping, though I wouldn't recommend it for extended periods. The power reserve of 45 hours means you can take it off for the weekend and it will still be running on Monday morning.

Occasions and Wrist Presence

The Chronograph I is a versatile piece. It works for formal occasions thanks to its elegant dial and leather strap, but it's also sporty enough for casual wear. I would rate its wrist presence at 4 out of 5. It doesn't scream for attention, but it has a quiet confidence that draws the eye of those who appreciate fine watchmaking. The panda dial is a conversation starter among enthusiasts.

It's not a travel watch due to the lack of GMT, but it's a great daily companion. It's also not a dress watch in the strictest sense, but it can pass for one in most settings. The lack of lume means it's not ideal for outdoor adventures at night, but that's a trade-off for its clean aesthetic. I wore it with a suit and with jeans, and it looked appropriate in both settings. It's the kind of watch that adapts to your lifestyle.

Reference Variants and Family

The Chronograph I was released in a single variant: a silver-white dial with black subdials and a black leather strap. It is limited to 100 pieces. There are no other dial colors or bracelet options for this reference. However, Kurono Tokyo later released the Chronograph II, which features a different design and movement. Other family references include the Mori, Shiro, Aoyama, Sumi, Toki, and Grand Akane, all of which share the brand's vintage-inspired design language. Each of these models has its own character, but the Chronograph I remains the most complex and sought-after.

Similar Watches

If you're considering the Chronograph I, you might also look at the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SRQ045, which offers a similar Japanese automatic chronograph experience with a vintage racing aesthetic. The Baltic Bicompax 002 is another compact, vintage-inspired chronograph at a lower price point. The Farer Chronograph Sport is a colorful alternative with a Swiss movement. Each has its own charm, but none match the Kurono's unique Art Deco flair.

For a more affordable option, the Seiko Presage SRQ031 is a great choice, though it's larger and more expensive. The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster is another vintage-inspired chronograph with a panda dial, but it uses a Swiss movement. If you want a true panda dial chronograph with a Japanese movement, the Kurono is hard to beat.

Investment Value

The original MSRP for the Kurono Tokyo Chronograph I was $2,380. Since it was limited to 100 pieces, it sold out immediately and now trades on the secondary market for between $3,000 and $4,500, depending on condition and completeness. The trend is appreciating, and given the brand's growing popularity, it's likely to hold its value. If you can find one near retail, it's a solid buy. However, at the current aftermarket premium, you're paying for exclusivity and design. There is no major auction history for this reference, as it's still a relatively new watch.

As with any limited-edition watch, the investment value depends on the brand's future. Kurono Tokyo has a dedicated following, and Asaoka's reputation continues to grow. The Chronograph I is a significant piece in the brand's history, being the first chronograph. That makes it a collector's item. If you're looking for a watch that will hold its value, this is a good candidate, but don't expect it to double overnight.

Service and Maintenance

The Seiko NE86 is a robust movement that can be serviced by any qualified watchmaker. Kurono Tokyo recommends service every 5 to 7 years, though the exact interval depends on wear. Approximate cost for a service is around $300 to $500, but it's best to check with Kurono Tokyo or an authorized service center. The watch does not require authorized-only service, which is a plus for collectors. The sapphire crystal is scratch-resistant, and the stainless steel case is durable. The leather strap will wear over time, but replacements are easy to find.

Pros and Cons

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Final Verdict

The Kurono Tokyo Chronograph I is a masterclass in vintage-inspired design. It packs a reliable Seiko column-wheel chronograph into a beautifully wearable 38mm case, and the panda dial is simply gorgeous. Its limited production and striking dial make it a worthy addition to any collection, though the aftermarket premium is steep. If you value design and wearability over specs, this is a compelling choice. If you need lume and high water resistance, look elsewhere. For the sophisticated young collector who wants a watch that feels special every time they put it on, the Chronograph I delivers.