Kurono Tokyo Reiwa Review: The Green Dial That Started a Cult

In 2019, Japan entered the Reiwa era, and a small independent brand called Kurono Tokyo released a watch that would become a cult object. The Kurono Tokyo Reiwa was the debut model from Hajime Asaoka's accessible line, and it arrived with a mint-green dial, a compact case, and a production run of just 100 pieces. It sold out almost immediately, and today it remains one of the most sought-after modern Japanese dress watches.

This review dives into the Reiwa's design, movement, wearability, and investment potential. If you're a young collector trying to understand why a Miyota-powered watch commands such attention, the Reiwa is a perfect case study. It's not about haute horlogerie complications or in-house calibers. It's about design, scarcity, and the unmistakable touch of a master watchmaker.

The Reiwa came at a moment when the watch world was rediscovering independent Japanese watchmaking. Grand Seiko was gaining global respect, and microbrands were exploding. But Kurono Tokyo offered something different: the eye of an independent master, Hajime Asaoka, at a price that felt almost democratic. The Reiwa was the first taste, and it set the tone for everything that followed.

Manufacture History: Hajime Asaoka's Accessible Revolution

Kurono Tokyo was founded in 2019 by Hajime Asaoka, one of Japan's most respected independent watchmakers. Asaoka is known for his hand-made, high-end pieces under his own name, but Kurono Tokyo was created to bring his design philosophy to a wider audience at a more accessible price. The brand is based in Japan, and its watches are assembled in Japan with a mix of Japanese and Swiss components.

Asaoka's independent work is characterized by meticulous finishing, elegant dials, and a deep respect for traditional watchmaking. His own watches can cost tens of thousands of dollars and are made in very small numbers. Kurono Tokyo, by contrast, uses third-party movements and more efficient production methods to keep prices within reach. The trade-off is clear: you get the design language and the Asaoka name, but not the hand-finished in-house movement.

The Reiwa was the first Kurono Tokyo model. It was launched to commemorate the beginning of the Reiwa era, which started on May 1, 2019. The name means 'beautiful harmony,' and the watch was limited to 100 pieces. It was an instant hit, and it set the template for future Kurono Tokyo releases: vintage-inspired sizing, elegant dials, and limited production. The Reiwa put the brand on the map and created a waiting-list culture that continues today.

Since the Reiwa, Kurono Tokyo has released a steady stream of limited editions, each with its own color story and personality. The brand has become a favorite among collectors who want something different from the usual Swiss suspects. The Reiwa remains the origin point, and that history adds to its appeal.

Movement: Miyota 90S5 Automatic

Inside the Reiwa is a Miyota 90S5 automatic movement. This is a Japanese caliber with a date function, a power reserve of about 40 hours, and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. It has 24 jewels. It is not an in-house movement, and it is not COSC-certified. That might disappoint purists, but it is a deliberate choice: the Miyota 90S5 is robust, easy to service, and keeps the price down.

The 90S5 is a workhorse. It is found in many microbrand watches, and it has a reputation for reliability. In the Reiwa, it is hidden behind a solid caseback, so you don't get to see the finishing. That's fine. The Reiwa is a design-first watch, and the movement is there to do its job without drama. If you want an in-house Asaoka movement, you'll need to look at his independent creations, which cost many multiples of the Reiwa's original price.

The Miyota 90S5 is part of the 9000 series, which is known for being thin and dependable. It allows for a relatively slim case, which is important for a dress watch. The date function is a practical addition, and the movement can be regulated by any competent watchmaker. It may not have the prestige of a Swiss caliber, but it has a different kind of credibility: it is Japanese, it is reliable, and it is honest.

Specs and Case

The Reiwa has a stainless steel case that measures 37mm in diameter, 11.4mm in thickness, and 44mm from lug to lug. That makes it a compact, vintage-inspired dress watch. The crystal is sapphire, and the water resistance is 30 meters. There is no lume on the dial, which is typical for a formal watch. The strap is leather, and it closes with a pin buckle.

The case design is simple but refined. It has a slim bezel, gently curved lugs, and a polished finish that catches light without being flashy. The 37mm size is a sweet spot for many collectors, especially those with smaller wrists or a taste for mid-century proportions. It wears larger than its dimensions suggest because of the dial design, but it never feels bulky. The 11.4mm thickness means it slides under a cuff easily, and the 44mm lug-to-lug ensures it sits comfortably on the wrist.

The dial is the centerpiece. It is a mint green with a sunray finish that shifts from pale green to silver depending on the light. The applied indices are polished, and the hands are elegant and legible. There is a date window at 3 o'clock, which adds practicality without disrupting the symmetry too much. The dial is clean and balanced, with a small 'Kurono Tokyo' logo and 'Reiwa' text. It's a design that feels both traditional and modern.

Wrist Feel and Wearability

On the wrist, the Reiwa is a joy. The 37mm case and 44mm lug-to-lug make it feel balanced and unobtrusive. It weighs very little, and the leather strap is supple from the start. The watch sits close to the wrist, and the crown is easy to grip without digging into the back of your hand. It's the kind of watch you forget you're wearing, which is a compliment for a dress watch.

The mint-green dial is the star. It has a subtle sunray finish that shifts from pale green to silver depending on the light. The applied indices and hands are polished, and they catch the light beautifully. There is a date window at 3 o'clock, which adds practicality. The dial is clean and legible, with a small 'Kurono Tokyo' logo and 'Reiwa' text. It's a design that feels both traditional and modern, and it works with everything from a suit to a cashmere sweater.

The strap is comfortable and matches the formal intent of the watch. It is black leather, which is a safe choice, but it also means you can dress the Reiwa up or down with a quick strap change. A grey suede or a green alligator strap could make it even more special. The pin buckle is simple and secure, and it keeps the profile slim.

Accuracy and Daily Use

The Miyota 90S5 is not a chronometer, so you shouldn't expect quartz-like accuracy. In real-world use, you can expect it to run within about -10 to +20 seconds per day, depending on position and temperature. That's perfectly acceptable for a watch in this price range. It's reliable, and if it does need regulation, any competent watchmaker can do it.

Daily use is easy. The date function is handy, and the 40-hour power reserve means you can take it off for the weekend and pick it up on Monday without resetting. The 30-meter water resistance means it's splash-proof, but you shouldn't swim with it. It's a dress watch, not a diver. Keep it away from the pool and the shower, and it will serve you well for years.

The watch is also easy to live with because of its size. It doesn't get in the way when you're typing or driving. It slides under a cuff, and it doesn't attract unwanted attention unless someone knows what they're looking at. That's part of the appeal: it's a stealth-luxury piece for people in the know.

Occasions and Wrist Presence

The Reiwa is best suited for formal occasions, dressy events, and daily office wear. It's not a sports watch, and it's not a travel watch in the traditional sense. But it can be worn daily if your lifestyle is more city than surf. It pairs beautifully with a suit, a blazer, or even a crisp white shirt and jeans. It's versatile enough for a dinner date or a gallery opening.

Wrist presence is a 4 out of 5. It doesn't shout from across the room, but the mint-green dial and gold-toned accents draw the eye of anyone who knows watches. It's a conversation starter. The limited edition of 100 pieces adds to the mystique. When you wear a Reiwa, you're wearing a piece of Kurono Tokyo history, and that carries weight with collectors.

If you want a watch that announces itself, this isn't it. But if you want a watch that rewards close inspection and signals taste rather than wealth, the Reiwa is hard to beat. It's the kind of piece that makes other collectors lean in and ask, 'Is that a Kurono?'

Reference Variants and Family

The Reiwa was a single limited edition, so there are no dial or strap variants from the original release. The reference is simply 'Reiwa,' and it came with a mint-green dial and a black leather strap. It is the first model in the Kurono Tokyo family, which now includes the Kurono Tokyo 34, Mori, Seiji, Toki, Grand Akane, Chronograph 1, and Chronograph 2. Each of these shares the brand's design DNA: elegant proportions, beautiful dials, and limited production.

If you like the Reiwa but want something more available, the Mori and Seiji are good alternatives. The Mori has a green dial, while the Seiji has a blue dial. Both are slightly larger and easier to find, though they still command a premium. The Kurono Tokyo 34 is a smaller, time-only option. The Chronograph models offer a sportier take on the brand's aesthetic.

The family has grown quickly, and each new release seems to sell out within minutes. That makes the Reiwa even more significant as the first. It is the root of the family tree, and it will always be the one that started it all.

Similar Watches and Homages

If you're considering the Reiwa, you might also look at the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW231. It's a Japanese dress watch with a similar vintage-inspired size and a more premium in-house movement. The Nomos Glashütte Orion 38 is another minimalist dress watch with a comparable understated elegance. The Omega De Ville Prestige 39.5mm is a classic Swiss dress watch with a date and similar formal intent. And the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time 'Mojito' offers a green dial and Japanese charm at a fraction of the price.

For homages, the Orient Bambino 38mm is a vintage-style dress watch with a green dial and a price around $250. The Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm is another affordable vintage-inspired automatic with a clean, formal look. These won't have the Asaoka design language or the limited-edition cachet, but they can scratch a similar itch if you're on a budget.

Other alternatives include the Cartier Tank Must for a different shape, or the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic for a more luxurious dress watch experience. But none of these have the specific combination of Japanese design, independent credibility, and extreme scarcity that the Reiwa offers.

Investment Value and Service

The Reiwa originally retailed for $1,780. Today, it is sold out at retail, and pre-owned prices have climbed. At the time of writing, you can expect to pay somewhere between $2,500 and $3,500 on the secondary market, depending on condition and completeness. The trend is appreciating, driven by the limited run of 100 pieces and the fact that it was the first Kurono Tokyo model. There is no major auction history yet, but that could change as the brand matures.

If you own a Reiwa, our recommendation is to hold. It's a piece of independent Japanese watchmaking history, and its scarcity should support values. If you're buying, be prepared to pay a premium, and verify provenance. Service can be handled by Kurono Tokyo or a qualified independent watchmaker familiar with the Miyota 90S5. The movement is common, so parts and service are not a problem.

The Reiwa is a charming entry into independent Japanese horology. It's not the most complicated watch, and it's not the most expensive, but it has a story and a design that resonate. It's the kind of watch that can be worn for decades and then passed down, which is the best kind of investment.

Pros and Cons

Final Verdict

The Kurono Tokyo Reiwa is a landmark release that helped define the brand's cult following. Its blend of Asaoka's design language, a wearable case, and extreme scarcity makes it a compelling collector's piece. Just know that the movement is a reliable Miyota, not a haute horlogerie caliber. It's a charming entry into independent Japanese horology with strong scarcity, though you're paying for design and access as much as mechanics.

If you can find one at a fair price, buy it. If you already own one, wear it and enjoy it. The Reiwa is more than a watch; it's a piece of modern Japanese watchmaking history.