Le Labo Shiu 25

In this review
Accords
Notes Pyramid
Scent Journey
The first thirty minutes are a cold snap. Pink pepper arrives dry and crackling, all pink peppercorn dust and a faint rosy tingle, and it is immediately overtaken by camphor — not the blunt menthol of a chest rub, but the cool, green, almost eucalyptus-adjacent breath of crushed camphor laurel leaves. There is a shiver of something aqueous and faintly bitter here, the sensation of stepping from a Beijing summer street into a stone-floored hall. The opening is bracing, slightly austere, and it will divide a room within seconds.
Between one and two hours the fragrance turns. The camphor recedes into the architecture and iris steps forward, cool and rooty, with that unmistakable powdered-carrot-and-violet quality that good iris absolute delivers. White blossom softens the edges without ever becoming sweet or pretty, and frankincense begins to smoke gently at the base of the composition — a thin, silver-grey ribbon of olibanum that smells of cold stone, resin and church incense rather than any warmth. This is the most beautiful phase of Shiu 25 and, for many wearers, the reason to own it.
From four hours onward the fragrance settles into a quiet, skin-close amber. The woods are smooth and unspecified, more texture than species, the amber is dry rather than syrupy, and a soft musk gives the whole thing the faint warmth of a worn cashmere collar. The camphor never fully disappears; it lingers as a cool halo, which keeps the base from ever turning gourmand or heavy. On fabric the iris and frankincense remain readable well past the six-hour mark.
Performance Dashboard
Six to eight hours on skin, with the iris and incense heart remaining perceptible on fabric for considerably longer.
Moderate. Roughly arm's length for the first two hours, then close to the skin as the amber base takes hold.
Moderate. Shiu 25 creates a discreet scent bubble rather than a trail, and it does not announce itself across a room.
When to Wear
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Genuinely distinctive iris-and-incense construction with a real camphoraceous signature
- ✅ Elegant, restrained performance suited to offices and intimate settings
- ✅ Excellent quality-to-concept ratio for a City Exclusive release
- ✅ Layers beautifully with woody and citrus Le Labo compositions
- ❌ Polarising opening that reads as medicinal to some noses
- ❌ Moderate projection may disappoint wearers accustomed to stronger statements
- ❌ City Exclusive pricing and limited August to September availability window
- ❌ Not a warm-weather fragrance; it can turn sharp in high heat and humidity
Price & Value
“Expensive, but defensible for a true iris-and-incense enthusiast. Shiu 25 is not a daily driver, and it should not be purchased as one. As a seasonal, contemplative signature for cold months, the cost per wear is reasonable. As a blind buy, it is a gamble.”
Reformulation History
No significant batch variations reported. Le Labo blends each bottle to order at the point of purchase and prints the blending date on the label, so minor differences in perceived freshness between bottles are normal and generally fade within a few weeks of opening.
Who It's For
Ideal For
- Lovers of iris, incense and powdery-resinous compositions
- Wearers who prefer intimate, skin-close fragrances over projection monsters
- Anyone building a contemplative, cold-weather rotation
- Fans of Comme des Garçons incense and Serge Lutens iris work
Not Recommended For
- Those who dislike camphoraceous or medicinal openings
- Wearers seeking a sweet, crowd-pleasing or mass-appeal scent
- Anyone shopping for a high-heat summer signature
- Collectors who require loud projection and long trails
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Layering Ideas
- Layer a single spray over Le Labo Santal 33 to add creamy sandalwood weight beneath the iris and soften the camphoraceous opening.
- Pair with Bergamote 22 or another bright citrus to lift the frankincense and make Shiu 25 wearable in early autumn daylight.
- Combine with a drop of Vanille 44 on the wrists for a warmer, more enveloping evening interpretation without losing the incense core.
- Spray Shiu 25 on skin and a woody amber on fabric only, keeping the camphor close to the body and the base diffused around you.
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