Le Labo Shiu 25

Le Labo Shiu 25 Review: Beijing's Ethereal Iris Incense

A camphor-lit meditation on iris, olibanum and the quietest hours of Beijing.

By Vivir · · Updated
There is a tree in southern China called the ho, whispered as shiu in its softer Cantonese inflection, and known to botanists as Cinnamomum camphora. Crush a leaf between your fingers on a humid morning and you get the whole story at once: a bright, almost medicinal lift of camphor riding over something green, cool and faintly sweet. Le Labo has built an entire fragrance around that gesture, and in doing so has made one of the most introspective compositions in its City Exclusive Collection. Shiu 25 is the Beijing exclusive, released in 2026 as an eau de parfum and available outside the city only during the house's annual August to September City Exclusive window. It is a fragrance of pink pepper and camphor at the threshold, iris and white blossom and frankincense at the heart, and a base of anchoring woods, amber and musk that holds the whole ethereal construction to the skin. If you know Le Labo primarily through the creamy sandalwood of Santal 33, prepare for a different temperament entirely: this is cool, powdery, resinous and deliberately hushed. What makes Shiu 25 fascinating to a trained nose is its chemistry. The ho tree is perfumery's principal natural source of linalool, the molecule that gives lavender its floral freshness and that also sits at the heart of the camphoraceous impression. Shiu 25 leans into that duality rather than smoothing it away, which is precisely why its Fragrantica score sits at a polarising 3.64 from 106 votes. This is not a fragrance that flatters everyone. It is a fragrance that rewards patience, and it smells like a temple courtyard at first light.
Longevity
4.0
Projection
3.0
Sillage
3.0
$300-$320
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Amber Soft Spicy Fresh Spicy Camphor Warm Spicy Musky Woody Sweet Balsamic

Notes Pyramid

Top
Pink PepperCamphor
Heart
IrisWhite BlossomFrankincense (Olibanum)
Base
Woody NotesAmberMusk

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The first thirty minutes are a cold snap. Pink pepper arrives dry and crackling, all pink peppercorn dust and a faint rosy tingle, and it is immediately overtaken by camphor — not the blunt menthol of a chest rub, but the cool, green, almost eucalyptus-adjacent breath of crushed camphor laurel leaves. There is a shiver of something aqueous and faintly bitter here, the sensation of stepping from a Beijing summer street into a stone-floored hall. The opening is bracing, slightly austere, and it will divide a room within seconds.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

Between one and two hours the fragrance turns. The camphor recedes into the architecture and iris steps forward, cool and rooty, with that unmistakable powdered-carrot-and-violet quality that good iris absolute delivers. White blossom softens the edges without ever becoming sweet or pretty, and frankincense begins to smoke gently at the base of the composition — a thin, silver-grey ribbon of olibanum that smells of cold stone, resin and church incense rather than any warmth. This is the most beautiful phase of Shiu 25 and, for many wearers, the reason to own it.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

From four hours onward the fragrance settles into a quiet, skin-close amber. The woods are smooth and unspecified, more texture than species, the amber is dry rather than syrupy, and a soft musk gives the whole thing the faint warmth of a worn cashmere collar. The camphor never fully disappears; it lingers as a cool halo, which keeps the base from ever turning gourmand or heavy. On fabric the iris and frankincense remain readable well past the six-hour mark.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 4.0/5

Six to eight hours on skin, with the iris and incense heart remaining perceptible on fabric for considerably longer.

📢 Projection 3.0/5

Moderate. Roughly arm's length for the first two hours, then close to the skin as the amber base takes hold.

💨 Sillage 3.0/5

Moderate. Shiu 25 creates a discreet scent bubble rather than a trail, and it does not announce itself across a room.

When to Wear

🌸SpringOK
☀️SummerAvoid
🍂FallBest
❄️WinterBest
🌙 Evening💼 Office📌 Quiet/Contemplative Wear

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ Genuinely distinctive iris-and-incense construction with a real camphoraceous signature
  • ✅ Elegant, restrained performance suited to offices and intimate settings
  • ✅ Excellent quality-to-concept ratio for a City Exclusive release
  • ✅ Layers beautifully with woody and citrus Le Labo compositions
  • ❌ Polarising opening that reads as medicinal to some noses
  • ❌ Moderate projection may disappoint wearers accustomed to stronger statements
  • ❌ City Exclusive pricing and limited August to September availability window
  • ❌ Not a warm-weather fragrance; it can turn sharp in high heat and humidity

Price & Value

$300-$320
Positioned at the upper end of Le Labo's 100ml pricing, in line with City Exclusive premiums.

“Expensive, but defensible for a true iris-and-incense enthusiast. Shiu 25 is not a daily driver, and it should not be purchased as one. As a seasonal, contemplative signature for cold months, the cost per wear is reasonable. As a blind buy, it is a gamble.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported. Le Labo blends each bottle to order at the point of purchase and prints the blending date on the label, so minor differences in perceived freshness between bottles are normal and generally fade within a few weeks of opening.

Who It's For

Ideal For

  • Lovers of iris, incense and powdery-resinous compositions
  • Wearers who prefer intimate, skin-close fragrances over projection monsters
  • Anyone building a contemplative, cold-weather rotation
  • Fans of Comme des Garçons incense and Serge Lutens iris work

Not Recommended For

  • Those who dislike camphoraceous or medicinal openings
  • Wearers seeking a sweet, crowd-pleasing or mass-appeal scent
  • Anyone shopping for a high-heat summer signature
  • Collectors who require loud projection and long trails

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Layering Ideas

Final Verdict

Le Labo Shiu 25 is a fragrance of restraint and rare intelligence, translating the camphor laurel's linalool duality into cool iris, silver incense and quiet amber. It will not please everyone, and its 3.64 user score tells that story honestly, but for the wearer who wants a contemplative, cold-weather signature that smells like stone, powder and smoke, it is close to perfect. Approach it with patience rather than expectation, and it will reward you with one of the most beautiful iris hearts in the Le Labo catalogue.

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