Maison Crivelli Fragrance review

Maison Crivelli Lys Soelaberg — Maison Crivelli Lys Sølaberg Review: Smoky Amber Floral

Name: Maison Crivelli Lys Soelaberg — Maison Crivelli Lys Sølaberg Review: Smoky Amber Floral
Item: Maison Crivelli Lys Soelaberg
Author: Vivir

A 2021 amber woody floral from Nathalie Feisthauer — quince, lily and torrefied oak.

By Vivir · October 22, 2026

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Maison Crivelli Lys Soelaberg — Maison Crivelli Lys Sølaberg Review: Smoky Amber Floral - Product Image

Maison Crivelli released Lys Sølaberg in 2021, and it remains one of the house's more unusual propositions: a lily-centred floral built on a foundation of smoke, torrefied oak and ambroxan. The brand classifies it as an amber woody floral, and it is sold as a unisex eau de parfum at 20 percent concentration, composed by perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer. The name rewards a second look. Lys Sølaberg is a contraction of the words sol (sun) and berg (mountain), with Lys — light in Danish and Norwegian, and also the French word for lily — completing the image. It is frequently written online as Lys Soelaberg, which is a transliteration of the ø character rather than the official spelling. What the fragrance actually delivers is drier and stranger than the floral name suggests. Quince and wine lees give the opening a tart, fermented fruitiness; the heart is a powdery lily and iris accord sweetened by dried fruits; and the base is a long, smoky wood-and-amber structure weighted by tobacco absolute, guaiac wood and oakmoss. It is not a fresh floral and it is not a crowd-pleasing gourmand. On Fragrantica it holds an overall score of 3.74 from 854 votes, a middling figure that reflects a genuinely divisive composition rather than an indifferent one.

Longevity

4.0

Projection

4.0

Sillage

3.0

€90–€190

SpringSummerFallWinter

Accords

Woody Fruity Powdery Sweet Amber Musky Smoky Earthy White Floral Iris

Notes Pyramid

Top

QuinceWine LeesCarrot SeedsBergamot

Heart

Dried FruitsLilyIrisCalamus

Base

SmokeAmbroxanOakCedarTobaccoGuaiac WoodMateLabdanumOakmossPatchouli

Scent Journey

Opening 0-30 min

The first 30 minutes are dominated by quince and wine lees — a tart, slightly fermented fruit note that reads more like orchard fruit left in a warm cellar than a fresh-picked apple. Carrot seeds add a dry, faintly earthy sweetness underneath, and bergamot supplies a brief citrus lift before the fruit turns darker.

Heart 1-2 hrs

Between one and two hours the fragrance moves into its floral heart. Lily is the anchor: creamy, slightly green, and noticeably powdery once iris joins it. Dried fruits push the sweetness up a notch, while calamus contributes a woody-herbal, almost root-like texture that keeps the florals from becoming soft or conventionally pretty.

Drydown 4+ hrs

From roughly four hours onward, Lys Sølaberg settles into a smoky woody amber. Torrefied oak and guaiac wood give a charred, resinous quality; tobacco absolute adds a dry hay-and-leaf facet; ambroxan provides the warm, mineral skin-scent glow that carries the composition for hours. Oakmoss and patchouli keep the base grounded and slightly bitter, with labdanum rounding the edges.

Performance Dashboard

Longevity 4.0/5

8-10 hours on skin, supported by a 20% EDP concentration and an ambroxan-heavy base that clings well.

Projection 4.0/5

Strong for the first 2-3 hours, then settles into a close woody-amber skin scent.

Sillage 3.0/5

Moderate to strong; it leaves a clear trail in the first hours without filling a room.

When to Wear

SpringOK

SummerAvoid

FallBest

WinterBest

Evening wearDate nightCold-weather signatureFormal events

Pros & Cons

Distinctive, recognisable composition that does not resemble a typical designer release
Strong 8-10 hour longevity from a 20% EDP concentration
Unusual quince and wine lees opening that rewards repeated wear
Excellent cold-weather performance and projection

The fermented fruit opening is polarising and reads sour to some noses
Heavy smoke and oakmoss make it difficult to wear in warm weather
Powdery lily-iris heart can feel dated to wearers who prefer modern woods
Premium niche pricing for a fragrance with a mid-range community score

Price & Value

€90–€190

Priced as a niche eau de parfum across 30ml and 100ml sizes, in line with Maison Crivelli's wider collection.

“Fair for the concentration and longevity, but only if the smoky, fermented-fruit profile suits you — this is a fragrance to sample twice before committing to the 100ml.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported.

Who It's For

Ideal For

Wearers who prefer dry, smoky woody ambers over sweet gourmands
Fans of powdery iris and lily accords with an unusual, fermented fruit top
Anyone looking for a unisex cold-weather signature with strong projection
Collectors of niche compositions built around torrefied or smoked woods

Not Recommended For

Those who want a fresh, citrus-forward or aquatic summer scent
Wearers who dislike smoke, ambroxan or oakmoss in the base
Anyone seeking a quiet, office-safe skin scent
People who find powdery florals cloying

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Layering Ideas

Layer with a bright bergamot-forward cologne to lift the smoky drydown for daytime wear.
Pair with a vanilla or tonka-heavy amber to push the dried-fruit sweetness forward in cold weather.
Apply to fabric rather than skin to extend the torrefied oak and tobacco facets, which last longest on cloth.

Final Verdict

Lys Sølaberg is a genuinely individual amber woody floral that treats lily as something smoked and dried rather than fresh and dewy. Its 8-10 hour performance and strong early projection make it a serious cold-weather option, but the fermented quince opening and heavy oakmoss base will divide wearers. Sample it on skin across a full day before buying.