Maison Margiela Silver (untitled) eau de parfum — Maison Margiela (untitled) Silver: A Green Incense Study
A luminous green chypre wrapped in incense, white musk, and quiet cedar.
By Vivir·
In this review
There are fragrances that enter a room before you do, and then there are fragrances like Maison Margiela (untitled). This is a scent that does not shout; it breathes. It sits close to the skin like a freshly pressed linen shirt, carrying the cool bitterness of galbanum, the polished green of boxwood, and a whisper of incense that feels more like a memory than a statement. The Silver bottle is not a separate flanker or a secret concentration; it is the colorway of the iconic (untitled) flacon, a cool metallic sheath around one of the most quietly distinctive unisex compositions of the 2010s.
Launched in 2010 and composed by Daniela Andrier, (untitled) is often described as a green chypre, but that label only tells part of the story. Yes, there is galbanum in both the top and the heart, and yes, there is a bitter-green tension that recalls the great chypres of the twentieth century. But Andrier does not build a heavy, mossy monument. Instead, she filters the chypre idea through a modern lens: transparent, skin-close, almost watercolor in its restraint. The result is a fragrance that feels both classic and contemporary, a study in quiet luxury that rewards the wearer who prefers intimacy to impact.
This review focuses on the eau de parfum as currently listed by Maison Margiela, while acknowledging the original 2010 eau de toilette. The concentration question matters, because the fragrance has lived two lives: first as an EDT in smaller sizes, and now as an EDP in a 100ml bottle at around $105. Both share the same green, incense-tinged DNA, but the EDP offers a slightly fuller, longer-lasting embrace. If you have smelled (untitled) before and found it fleeting, the current EDP deserves a second look. If you have never smelled it, prepare for a fragrance that is less about projection and more about presence.
The first thirty minutes are a cool, bitter-green flash. Galbanum is sharp and vegetal, boxwood adds polished greenness, and bitter orange tree absolute gives a citrus lift that is more rind and branch than fruit. It feels like stepping into a shaded garden after rain.
2
Heart1-2 hrs
After the first hour, jasmine softens the edges without becoming a heavy white floral. Galbanum resinoid adds resinous depth, while lentiscus essence brings a subtle aromatic twist. The fragrance becomes a green, floral-resinous scent that is crisp yet soft.
3
Drydown4+ hrs
By the fourth hour, (untitled) is a skin scent. Incense is a thin, silvery smoke rather than a heavy cloud, and white musk with Virginia cedar creates a soft, woody-musky base. The bitterness fades into a clean, slightly resinous warmth that stays close to the body.
Performance Dashboard
Longevity4.0/5
6-8 hours on skin; Parfumo community score 7.3/10. The current EDP is slightly more tenacious than the original EDT.
Projection3.0/5
Moderate at first, then close-to-skin after the first hour. Best appreciated by those who lean in.
Sillage3.0/5
Moderate; Parfumo community score 6.3/10. It leaves a close, polished aura rather than a room-filling trail.
When to Wear
SpringBest
SummerOK
FallBest
WinterOK
officeeveryday wearcasual daytimespring outing
Pros & Cons
+Elegant green-chypre opening with a beautiful galbanum note
+Quiet incense and white musk drydown that feels intimate and refined
+Unisex and office-friendly with moderate projection
+Fair price for a niche-adjacent designer fragrance
−Moderate projection may disappoint those who want a stronger trail
−Bitter galbanum is polarizing and may not suit everyone
−EDT and EDP naming can be confusing, and Silver is not a separate flanker
−Not a loud statement fragrance for evening or clubbing
Price & Value
$80-$150
Current 100ml EDP is often around $105; original EDT sizes may be found at variable prices.
“Fair value for a refined, skin-close green incense. Best purchased at discount or sampled first if you are new to bitter green fragrances.”
Reformulation History
No significant batch variations reported in verified sources. The main variation is concentration: the original 2010 launch was an EDT, while the current Maison Margiela listing sells it as an EDP in 100ml.
Who It's For
Ideal For
green chypre lovers
incense and white musk seekers
office-friendly unisex fragrance wearers
those who prefer moderate, close-to-skin projection
Layer with a single spray of a bright citrus cologne to lift the opening and make it feel more summery.
Pair with a soft woody musk or a sheer incense fragrance to extend the drydown; apply the greener fragrance first.
Final Verdict
Maison Margiela (untitled) is a quiet masterpiece of green transparency. It is not a fragrance that will turn heads across a room, but it will make the person who leans in want to stay there. If you appreciate restraint, polish, and skin-close elegance, this is a fragrance worth discovering.