The Architecture of Intimacy
When we discuss high horology, we often talk about movements in terms of 'finishing' or 'complications.' We rarely talk about 'architecture' in the literal sense of the word—how a piece occupies the volume of space above the wrist. The MB&F LM FlyingT, however, demands this vocabulary. From the moment I strapped the 38.5mm case to my wrist, it was clear that this was not a watch designed to hide. Yet, for all its visual volume, the FlyingT is one of the most 'selfish' watches I have ever worn, and I mean that in the most complimentary way possible.
The centerpiece of the FlyingT is its 50-degree tilted dial at the 7 o'clock position. While the central flying tourbillon puts on a show for the world, the actual time is visible only to the wearer. In a week of wearing this piece, I found this feature to be a revelation. In meetings, a quick glance down at my wrist gave me the time without alerting anyone else to my impatience. It creates a private dialogue between the machine and its owner, a rare feat in an era of 'look-at-me' luxury.
A Week on the Wrist: The Reality of the Dome
The primary concern for any prospective FlyingT owner is the sapphire dome. At 20mm tall, it is a significant presence. My first day was spent in a state of hyper-vigilance, terrified of clipping the crystal on a doorframe or a granite countertop. However, by day three, my spatial awareness adjusted. The dome is surprisingly resilient, and because it is perfectly spherical, most glancing blows simply slide off the surface rather than impacting it directly.
The ergonomics are saved by the lug design. With a lug-to-lug distance of just 44mm, the watch head stays centered. On my 15cm wrist, many 40mm watches feel cumbersome because the lugs extend past the edges of my arm. The FlyingT avoids this entirely. It sits like a pedestal on the wrist. While it will never fit under a slim-fit silk cuff, it pairs beautifully with oversized knitwear or sleeveless evening attire, where the dome can act as the focal point of the outfit.
The Movement: Verticality and the Sun
Technically, the FlyingT is a marvel of vertical engineering. Most movements are horizontal sandwiches; the FlyingT is a skyscraper. The gear train is stacked vertically, culminating in the 60-second flying tourbillon that beats at the very top of the assembly. This tourbillon is topped with a single diamond that rotates in sync with the cage, adding a touch of kinetic brilliance that catches the light with every movement of the hand.
Flip the watch over, and you are greeted by a sun-shaped winding rotor. This is not just an aesthetic choice; it provides the 100 hours of power reserve that make this a truly viable daily wearer. I set the watch on Monday morning, and even after leaving it off for a formal event where I wore a vintage piece on Wednesday, it was still ticking accurately on Thursday morning. For a high-complication piece, this level of autonomy is rare and deeply appreciated.
Legibility and Daily Utility
Is it legible? Yes, but with a caveat. The small sub-dial requires a sharp eye, especially in low-light conditions, as there is no lume to be found. However, the high contrast of the serpentine hands against the onyx or lapis baseplates (depending on the variant) makes it surprisingly easy to read at a glance. The lack of a date window is a blessing here; any further clutter would destroy the purity of the vertical composition.
The dual crowns are another highlight of the daily experience. The left crown is for winding—a smooth, tactile process that feels high-quality—while the right crown is for setting the time. This separation prevents accidental time changes and makes the watch feel like a balanced instrument. The 30m water resistance means you should keep it far away from the pool, but it survived a caught-in-the-rain dash in Soho without any fogging or issues.
The Verdict for the Modern Collector
The MB&F LM FlyingT is a polarizing masterpiece. It rejects the traditional tropes of feminine watchmaking—delicate, thin, and quartz—in favor of something bold and mechanically assertive. It is a watch for the woman who understands that horology is a form of wearable art. While the price point and the height make it a niche choice, the sheer joy of watching that central tourbillon spin while you go about your day is worth every millimeter of sapphire.
In the landscape of luxury watches for the 'trust-fund-baby' or the self-made mogul, the FlyingT stands alone. It doesn't signal status through a logo, but through a silhouette that is unmistakable to those in the know. It is a conversation starter, a private sanctuary of time, and a testament to what happens when a brand treats its female audience with the same mechanical respect as its male one.
