Memo Paris Fragrance review

Memo Paris Filou Review: A Refined Leather-Tea Composition

Alienor Massenet's 2017 creation balances citrus freshness with animalic depth

By Vivir · · Updated
Memo Paris, the luxury fragrance house co-founded by Clara and John Molloy, released Filou in 2017 as part of their ongoing exploration of travel-inspired scents. Designed by long-time collaborator Alienor Massenet, Filou represents a sophisticated intersection between the bright, aromatic traditions of citrus perfumery and the more robust, textural qualities of the leather and musk family. As with many Memo offerings, the scent is intended to evoke a specific sense of place and memory, functioning as a 'souvenir' in olfactory form. At Vivir, we have monitored the reception of Filou within the high-end niche market. While Memo Paris is often lauded for its heavy-hitting leather compositions, Filou offers a different perspective. It utilizes a green tea heart and a complex citrus opening to provide a sense of buoyancy that is frequently missing from traditional leather-based fragrances. This report details the technical specifications, performance metrics, and market positioning of this 2017 release.
Longevity
3.0
Projection
3.0
Sillage
3.0
$22-$350
SpringSummerFallWinter

Accords

Citrus 25%
Leather 20%
Green 15%
Animalic 10%
Fresh Spicy 10%
Powdery 5%
Musky 5%
Fresh 5%
Aromatic 3%
Floral 2%

Notes Pyramid

Top
BergamotMandarinCoriander
Heart
Green TeaJasmineCyclamen
Base
LeatherMuskIris

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The fragrance opens with a sharp, photorealistic burst of Bergamot and Mandarin. The citrus is immediately accompanied by the dry, woody spice of Coriander, which prevents the opening from becoming overly sweet or pulp-like.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

After approximately 30 minutes, the fragrance transitions into a structured heart dominated by Green Tea. The tea note is herbal and slightly tannic, supported by the airy floralcy of Cyclamen and a clean, non-indolic Jasmine.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The final stage, which sets in after 3-4 hours, reveals the signature Memo leather. This is not a harsh 'new car' leather, but rather a soft, suede-like texture enhanced by the powdery elegance of Iris and a clean Musk base.

Performance Dashboard

Longevity 3.0/5

4-8 hours estimated range

Projection 3.0/5

arm's length for the first 90 minutes

Sillage 3.0/5

moderate

When to Wear

SpringBest
SummerOK
FallAvoid
WinterOK
Professional settingsDaytime social eventsCasual luxury wear

Pros & Cons

  • Highly versatile unisex profile
  • Sophisticated use of green tea
  • High-quality raw materials
  • Moderate longevity may require reapplication
  • High price point for a 'moderate' performer

Price & Value

$22-$350
Luxury tier

“The entry price of $22 for samples makes it accessible for testing, but the $350 full bottle investment is strictly for enthusiasts of the brand.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported

Who It's For

Ideal For

  • Fans of transparent leather scents
  • Tea fragrance enthusiasts
  • Those seeking a unisex signature scent

Not Recommended For

  • Scent-seekers wanting heavy projection
  • Those who dislike animalic undertones

Explore More

Similar Fragrances

Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Bvlgari
Russian Leather Memo Paris

Clone Alternatives

Not currently cloned by major houses N/A

Layering Ideas

Final Verdict

Memo Paris Filou is a masterclass in transparency, successfully merging the herbal qualities of green tea with a sophisticated leather base. While its performance is moderate, its composition is undeniably refined and suitable for year-round wear.

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Memo ParisAlienor MassenetLeather FragranceTea FragranceUnisexNiche Perfumery