Memo Paris Filou Review: A Refined Leather-Tea Composition
Alienor Massenet's 2017 creation balances citrus freshness with animalic depth
By James Whitmore, Fragrance News Reporter·
James covers releases, brand news, and industry shifts in fine fragrance. Former beauty desk editor; trained nose since 2014.
Memo Paris, the luxury fragrance house co-founded by Clara and John Molloy, released Filou in 2017 as part of their ongoing exploration of travel-inspired scents. Designed by long-time collaborator Alienor Massenet, Filou represents a sophisticated intersection between the bright, aromatic traditions of citrus perfumery and the more robust, textural qualities of the leather and musk family. As with many Memo offerings, the scent is intended to evoke a specific sense of place and memory, functioning as a 'souvenir' in olfactory form.
At Vivir, we have monitored the reception of Filou within the high-end niche market. While Memo Paris is often lauded for its heavy-hitting leather compositions, Filou offers a different perspective. It utilizes a green tea heart and a complex citrus opening to provide a sense of buoyancy that is frequently missing from traditional leather-based fragrances. This report details the technical specifications, performance metrics, and market positioning of this 2017 release.
4.1Overall
Longevity
3.0
Projection
3.0
Sillage
3.0
$22-$350
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter
Accords
Citrus25%
Leather20%
Green15%
Animalic10%
Fresh Spicy10%
Powdery5%
Musky5%
Fresh5%
Aromatic3%
Floral2%
Notes Pyramid
Top
BergamotMandarinCoriander
Heart
Green TeaJasmineCyclamen
Base
LeatherMuskIris
Scent Journey
1
Opening0-30 min
The fragrance opens with a sharp, photorealistic burst of Bergamot and Mandarin. The citrus is immediately accompanied by the dry, woody spice of Coriander, which prevents the opening from becoming overly sweet or pulp-like.
2
Heart1-2 hrs
After approximately 30 minutes, the fragrance transitions into a structured heart dominated by Green Tea. The tea note is herbal and slightly tannic, supported by the airy floralcy of Cyclamen and a clean, non-indolic Jasmine.
3
Drydown4+ hrs
The final stage, which sets in after 3-4 hours, reveals the signature Memo leather. This is not a harsh 'new car' leather, but rather a soft, suede-like texture enhanced by the powdery elegance of Iris and a clean Musk base.
Performance Dashboard
⏱️ Longevity3.0/5
4-8 hours estimated range
📢 Projection3.0/5
arm's length for the first 90 minutes
💨 Sillage3.0/5
moderate
When to Wear
🌸SpringBest
☀️SummerOK
🍂FallAvoid
❄️WinterOK
📌 Professional settings📌 Daytime social events📌 Casual luxury wear
Community Verdict
⭐ Overall
4.1
👃 Scent
4.3
⏱️ Longevity
3.5
💨 Sillage
3.2
💰 Value
3.8
💌 Compliment Factor7.0/5
The clean tea and leather combination is generally well-received by those in close proximity.
Pros & Cons
✅ Highly versatile unisex profile
✅ Sophisticated use of green tea
✅ High-quality raw materials
❌ Moderate longevity may require reapplication
❌ High price point for a 'moderate' performer
Price & Value
$22-$350
Luxury tier
“The entry price of $22 for samples makes it accessible for testing, but the $350 full bottle investment is strictly for enthusiasts of the brand.”
Layer with a pure citrus cologne to amplify the top notes
Pair with a vanilla-heavy scent to soften the leather base
🏆 Final Verdict
Memo Paris Filou is a masterclass in transparency, successfully merging the herbal qualities of green tea with a sophisticated leather base. While its performance is moderate, its composition is undeniably refined and suitable for year-round wear.
