Memo Paris Fragrance review

Memo Paris Portobello Road: A Rose Grows in Notting Hill

Wet asphalt, market roses and London rain — Memo's 2025 green floral, reviewed.

By Vivir ·
Portobello Road is a street that smells of several things at once — frying onions, damp brick, cut flower stems, the sweet rot of fruit crates at closing time. Memo Paris has bottled that. Portobello Road, released in 2025, is the house's attempt to render the London market in perfume: green leaves, mandarin and myrtle up top, rose and clary sage at the heart, and a base that literally lists asphalt alongside rain notes, vetiver and patchouli. It is a bold brief, and a very Memo one. The fragrance lands in the Fleurs Bohèmes collection — the line where Memo lets its florals wander off the manicured path — and the bottle carries artwork by British artist Kate Daudy. Aliénor Massenet, the perfumer behind a huge share of Memo's catalogue, signed the composition. It is a unisex EDP, sold exclusively online and in Memo Paris boutiques, at €255 for 75ml. That price and that concept invite scrutiny, and the Fragrantica crowd has obliged: 178 votes in, the fragrance sits at 3.76 overall. That is a worth-arguing-about score, not a consensus darling. So let's argue — about the rose, the rain, the asphalt, and whether a market street can really live in a bottle.
€255 (75ml EDP)

Accords

Aromatic Aquatic Green Ozonic Rose Citrus Woody Asphalt Soft Spicy Earthy

Notes Pyramid

Top
Green LeavesMandarin OrangeMyrtle
Heart
RoseClary Sage
Base
Rain NotesAsphaltVetiverPatchouli

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The first 0–30 minutes are the most extroverted part of the fragrance: a bright, wet green burst from the leaves and mandarin, with myrtle adding an aromatic, almost herbal-scrub texture. Reviewers consistently describe a big rose arriving early and loudly, so expect the flower to show up well before the half-hour mark rather than waiting politely in the heart.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

Through hours one and two, rose and clary sage take the wheel. The sage keeps the rose from turning sugary — it reads dry, herbal and slightly savoury, which is what makes this a Fleurs Bohèmes floral rather than a pretty-pretty one. The aquatic and ozonic accords keep the air moving around it.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

From roughly four hours onward the composition settles into its pavement-and-earth register: rain notes, asphalt, vetiver and patchouli. The asphalt is the signature move here — a mineral, faintly tarry warmth under the flower — and it is the reason this fragrance does not resolve into a conventional rose. Vetiver and patchouli give the base a dry, grounded, slightly dusty finish.

Performance Dashboard

Longevity

No quantified longevity data was available at the time of writing, so we are not scoring it. Reviewer accounts describe the rose as dominant through the first few hours, which suggests at least a solid first half of wear, but we are not asserting an hour count.

Projection

Unscored. The opening is reported as assertive; how far it carries after the first hour is not something we can state with confidence.

Sillage

Unscored. Reviews indicate a moderate-to-strong opening presence, but no verified sillage figures were captured.

When to Wear

Daytime wearWeekend city daysCreative office environmentsGallery and market wandering

Pros & Cons

  • Genuinely original concept executed with a real asphalt note rather than a marketing metaphor
  • Clary sage keeps the rose dry, herbal and unisex rather than sweet
  • Strong opening presence with a clearly readable arc from green to mineral
  • Bottle artwork by Kate Daudy makes it a display object as well as a fragrance
  • €255 for 75ml is a serious commitment for a scent with a divisive 3.76 community score
  • The asphalt and ozonic accords will read as strange or synthetic to some noses
  • Exclusive online and boutique distribution limits sampling opportunities
  • Verified performance data is thin, so buyers are relying on reviews rather than metrics

Price & Value

€255 (75ml EDP)
Priced at the upper end of niche: a single 75ml EDP at €255, sold exclusively through Memo Paris online and its boutiques, with no discount channel and no smaller travel format confirmed.

“Fair value only if the concept lands for you. This is a composition you buy for its idea and its materials, not for versatility — sample first, because at this price the 3.76 community score is a real caution flag rather than noise.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported.

Who It's For

Ideal For

  • Rose lovers who want the flower stripped of powder and sweetness
  • Wearers of green, aquatic and vetiver-forward fragrances looking for a floral bridge
  • Anyone drawn to conceptual, place-based niche perfumery
  • Unisex wearers who prefer a dry, mineral finish over a gourmand one

Not Recommended For

  • Those who want a plush, jammy or candied rose
  • Wearers who dislike ozonic or aquatic textures in perfume
  • Buyers unwilling to sample before committing at €255
  • People seeking a loud, room-filling statement scent for evening

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Final Verdict

Portobello Road is one of the more interesting florals to come out of niche in 2025: a rose that smells like a London street after rain, with clary sage keeping it dry and asphalt keeping it honest. It is not a safe blind buy at €255 and the 3.76 community score reflects genuine division over its ozonic, mineral character. Sample it, wear it twice, and if the wet-pavement rose gets under your skin, it will be unlike anything else on your shelf.

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