Introduction
The Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph (ref. 106487) is not your typical chronograph. Named after the 19th-century inventor of the first chronograph, Nicolas Rieussec, this watch pays homage to his original rotating-disc design. Instead of traditional hands sweeping across a subdial, the chronograph function uses two rotating discs – one for seconds, one for minutes – visible through a cutout at 12 o'clock. It's a mechanical theater that captures the imagination of collectors who value horological storytelling over convention.
Launched in 2008 as part of Montblanc's push into high-end watchmaking, the Rieussec quickly became a cult favorite. The ref. 106487, in stainless steel with a black dial, represents the entry point into this family. It's powered by an in-house caliber derived from Minerva's legendary chronograph movements, giving it a pedigree that punches far above its price point. For the young collector who wants something that stands out in a sea of black-dial chronographs, this is a serious contender.
This review dives deep into the movement, wearability, and market position of the Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph. We'll explore why it remains a sleeper hit among auction-goers and watch enthusiasts, and whether it deserves a spot in your collection.
Manufacture History
Montblanc was founded in 1906 in Hamburg, Germany, as a manufacturer of fine writing instruments. The brand's name, inspired by the highest peak in the Alps, reflects a commitment to excellence and craftsmanship. In 1997, Montblanc expanded into watchmaking, initially producing quartz and entry-level mechanical pieces. The turning point came in 2006 when Montblanc acquired the historic Minerva movement manufacture in Villeret, Switzerland. Minerva, founded in 1858, was renowned for its high-quality chronograph movements, particularly the calibers used in military and racing watches. This acquisition gave Montblanc instant credibility in haute horlogerie.
The Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph was one of the first models to benefit from Minerva's expertise. The movement, caliber MB R100, was developed in-house at the Villeret facility, combining modern manufacturing techniques with traditional finishing. The watch's design directly references Rieussec's 1821 invention, which used a rotating disc and a fixed pointer to measure elapsed time. Montblanc's interpretation replaces the ink-and-paper mechanism with a sapphire disc and a central seconds hand for the running seconds, while the chronograph discs are driven by a column wheel and vertical clutch. This blend of historical inspiration and modern engineering is what makes the Rieussec so compelling.
Movement
At the heart of the ref. 106487 is the automatic caliber MB R100. This movement is a monopusher chronograph, meaning a single pusher at 2 o'clock controls start, stop, and reset functions. The column wheel ensures smooth, precise actuation, while the vertical clutch prevents the chronograph seconds hand from jumping when engaged. The most distinctive feature, however, is the disc display. The chronograph seconds are indicated by a rotating disc with a red marker, visible through a cutout at 12 o'clock. A second disc, graduated for 30 minutes, sits below it. This design eliminates the need for subdials, giving the dial a clean, symmetrical look.
The MB R100 operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a 72-hour power reserve, thanks to a twin-barrel system. The movement is beautifully finished: Côtes de Genève on the bridges, perlage on the base plate, and blued screws. The rotor is skeletonized and features the Montblanc star. While not COSC-certified, the movement is adjusted in five positions and delivers excellent real-world accuracy. The chronograph function can be left running continuously without significant wear, though the power reserve drops to about 50 hours with the chronograph engaged.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 43mm
- Case Thickness: 14.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 50mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Crystal: Sapphire (domed, with anti-reflective coating)
- Water Resistance: 30 meters (splash resistant only)
- Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and hour markers
- Bracelet/Strap: Black alligator leather strap with deployant clasp
Wrist Feel
The 43mm case wears larger than its diameter suggests due to the wide bezel and prominent crown guards. On a 6.5-inch wrist, the lugs overhang slightly, but the curved leather strap helps it sit comfortably. The weight is substantial – around 120 grams – giving it a reassuring heft without being a wrist anchor. The pusher at 2 o'clock is satisfying to operate, with a crisp, tactile click that rewards each press.
For daily wear, the polished bezel and case sides catch scratches easily, so it's best suited for desk-diving or dressier occasions. The leather strap is supple out of the box, but many owners swap it for a NATO or rubber strap for a more casual look. The deployant clasp is well-made, though the double-fold design can be a bit fiddly to close.
Accuracy
In real-world use, the MB R100 runs within +4 to +8 seconds per day, which is excellent for a non-COSC movement. The chronograph function adds a slight variation when engaged, but overall reliability is strong. Expect to wind it every three days if not worn, as the 72-hour power reserve is generous.
Occasions
The Nicolas Rieussec is versatile enough for formal events, daily wear, and travel. Its unique design makes it a great conversation starter at dinner parties, while the leather strap and polished case allow it to pair well with a suit. However, the 30m water resistance means it's not suitable for swimming or diving.
Wrist Presence
4/5 – The rotating disc chronograph is an instant conversation starter. The black dial with silver subdials and red accents is legible yet dramatic. It commands attention without being gaudy – a perfect balance for the collector who wants to stand out in a subtle way.
Reference Variants
The Nicolas Rieussec family includes several references. The ref. 106488 features a rose gold case with a silver dial and blued hands. The ref. 106489 is white gold with a black dial and gold accents. The ref. 106490 is stainless steel with a blue dial and silver subdials. All share the same movement and case dimensions.
Similar Watches
If you're considering the Rieussec, you might also look at the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph, which offers a monopusher chronograph with a classic, dressy aesthetic and an in-house movement. The Patek Philippe 5170 is another benchmark manual-wind chronograph with a column wheel. For a more affordable option, the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster provides a high-beat automatic chronograph with a rich history, though with traditional hands rather than discs.
Investment Value
The MSRP for the ref. 106487 was $8,500, and current retail is around $9,500. Pre-owned prices range from $5,500 to $7,500, making it a depreciating asset in the short term. However, the movement's Minerva heritage and the unique disc display have kept values stable. A stainless steel example sold at Christie's in 2022 for $6,200, slightly above market average. For long-term hold, the Rieussec is unlikely to skyrocket, but it offers strong value for the craftsmanship.
Service Interval
Montblanc recommends service every 5 years. The cost is approximately $800, and it must be done by an authorized service center due to the complex disc mechanism. Turnaround time is typically 4-6 weeks.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Unique rotating disc chronograph display
- In-house movement with Minerva heritage
- Excellent 72-hour power reserve
- Conversation-starting design
Cons
- Large 43mm case may not suit smaller wrists
- 30m water resistance limits swimming
- Polished case scratches easily
- Limited aftermarket strap options due to curved lugs
Final Verdict
The Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph ref. 106487 is a horological gem that offers a genuine alternative to the sea of traditional chronographs. Its in-house movement, historical inspiration, and distinctive disc display make it a compelling choice for the collector who values originality. While not an investment piece, it delivers immense character and craftsmanship for its price point.
