Wearing the Tefnut: A Week on the Wrist
The Moritz Grossmann Tefnut is not a watch you forget you're wearing. In the best way, it's a constant reminder of horological artistry. The 40mm stainless steel case is polished to a mirror finish, catching light with every movement. On my 6.5-inch wrist, the 47mm lug-to-lug is ideal—no overhang, no pinching. The leather strap is thick yet supple, and the pin buckle is discreet. After a full day, there's no discomfort, even in the summer heat.
The crown at 4 o'clock is a deliberate design choice. It doesn't dig into the back of my hand, and it's actually easier to wind than a traditional crown. The pusher at 2 o'clock is the real quirk: pressing it advances the time forward in one-minute increments. It's a tactile experience that makes setting the watch a joy. The power reserve indicator at 12 is a tiny arc with a red hand—it's legible at a glance, though it takes a moment to interpret.
Movement and Accuracy
Inside beats the Calibre 100.1, a hand-wound movement with a 42-hour power reserve. It's not a marathon, but it's sufficient for daily winding. The frequency of 18,000 vph gives it a slow, deliberate tick that's soothing. Over seven days, I averaged +4 seconds per day—well within acceptable range for a non-COSC movement. The winding feel is buttery with a distinct ratchet sound, and the pusher for time-setting is a unique feature that works flawlessly.
The finishing is where the Tefnut shines. The German silver plates are decorated with Glashütte stripes, the edges are hand-chamfered, and the balance cock is hand-engraved. It's visible through the sapphire caseback, and it's a feast for the eyes. This is haute horlogerie at its finest.
Legibility and Daily Use
In daylight, the Tefnut is perfectly legible. The silver dial contrasts with blued steel hands, and the small seconds at 6 is easy to read. However, there is no lume. In low light, the hands vanish. For a dress watch, that's acceptable, but if you're expecting to check the time in a dark restaurant, you'll be squinting. The water resistance is 30 meters—enough for hand washing, but not for swimming or even heavy rain. This is a watch for the office, not the ocean.
Value and Investment
At $24,500, the Tefnut is priced for the collector who values craftsmanship over brand recognition. It's not a Rolex that holds its value; it's a niche piece for those who understand Glashütte. Pre-owned prices hover around $18,000-$22,000, so you'll lose a bit if you sell, but not catastrophically. The trend is stable—it's not appreciating, but it's not dropping either. If you're buying for investment, look elsewhere. If you're buying for the love of horology, the Tefnut is a worthy addition.
Similar Watches and Alternatives
In the same price range, you have the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia, which is more recognized but less quirky. The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar offers a similar asymmetric dial but with an automatic movement. For a more affordable homage, the Seiko Presage offers a similar dress watch aesthetic for under $500, though the finish is incomparable. The Tefnut stands alone in its combination of pusher time-setting and power reserve.
Final Thoughts
The Moritz Grossmann Tefnut is a watch for the true enthusiast. It's not practical—no lume, low water resistance, and a manual wind. But it's a piece of art that demands interaction. If you're willing to embrace its quirks, you'll be rewarded with a unique wearing experience and a level of finishing that rivals watches twice the price. It's a wealthy collector's entry into serious horology, but it's also a connoisseur's secret. I'd recommend it to anyone who wants a dress watch that's anything but ordinary.
