History of Naoya Hida & Co.

Naoya Hida was born in 1976 and developed a passion for watchmaking while studying in Switzerland. After years of restoring vintage pieces, he founded his own brand in Tokyo in 2014, determined to create watches that honored the past while embracing modern precision. His atelier, a small studio in the Nakameguro district, is a temple of traditional craftsmanship. Hida personally assembles and finishes each movement, spending over 200 hours on a single watch.

The Type 2 series, introduced in 2018, was inspired by the Bauhaus movement—the German school of design that emphasized form following function. The NH TYPE2C-2 is the second iteration of the Type 2C, featuring a silver dial with applied indices and a distinctive seconds subdial at 6 o'clock. It quickly became a favorite among collectors who appreciate the purity of design and the meticulous hand work.

Movement: A Vintage Heart, Hand-Finished to Perfection

At the core of the NH TYPE2C-2 is a vintage Peseux caliber, a manual-wind movement from the 1950s that Hida sources and restores in-house. The movement is not merely serviced; it is completely disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt with new jewels and mainsprings. Hida then applies his signature finishing: Geneva stripes on the bridges, perlage on the main plate, and a sharp anglage on every edge. The balance cock is engraved with a hand-made spiral, and the large balance wheel beats at a slow 18,000 vph, giving the watch a gentle, hypnotic sweep.

The power reserve is a modest 40 hours, but this is intentional—it encourages the owner to engage with the watch daily. The winding action is smooth and tactile, with a distinct click that is reminiscent of vintage pieces. The movement is not COSC-certified, but Hida regulates each watch to run within +5 seconds per day. In our testing, it achieved +4 seconds, which is impressive for a movement of this vintage.

Specifications and Design

The case measures 40mm in diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug, and just 8.5mm in thickness. It is made of stainless steel, polished to a mirror finish that catches light beautifully. The bezel is slim and slightly domed, blending seamlessly into the case. The sapphire crystal is also domed, adding to the vintage feel. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters—enough for hand washing but not swimming.

The dial is the star of the show. It is a deep silver with a subtle grainy texture, reminiscent of a vintage photographic print. Applied indices are made of white gold and polished to a high sheen. The dauphine hands are sharp and perfectly beveled, with a slight curve that follows the contour of the dial. The seconds subdial at 6 o'clock is recessed and features a fine railway track. There is no date, no lume—just pure, uncluttered legibility.

The watch comes on a hand-stitched leather strap from a Japanese artisan, with a simple pin buckle. The strap is supple and comfortable, and the quick-release spring bars make it easy to swap for a different color.

Wrist Feel and Wearability

The NH TYPE2C-2 sits beautifully on the wrist, its 40mm diameter and 48mm lug-to-lug ensuring a balanced presence on average-sized wrists. The case is slim at 8.5mm, allowing it to slide effortlessly under a shirt cuff. The gently curved lugs and polished bezel create a seamless transition from case to strap, and the overall weight—around 70 grams on a leather strap—makes it feel substantial yet unobtrusive.

Wearing it is an exercise in sensory pleasure. The smooth, domed sapphire crystal reflects light in a quiet, elegant way. The dial, a deep silver with a subtle grainy texture, changes character with the angle of the sun. The pin buckle is simple and secure, and the hand-stitched leather strap from a Japanese artisan molds to the wrist after a few wears. It is a watch you forget you're wearing—until you glance down and are reminded of its perfection.

Accuracy and Daily Performance

In real-world testing, the NH TYPE2C-2 performs admirably for a vintage-based movement. After a full wind, it ran at an average of +4 seconds per day, well within acceptable tolerances for a hand-wound piece. The slow beat frequency (18,000 vph) contributes to a smooth sweep but also demands careful winding; a full wind lasts about 40 hours, and the movement maintains accuracy until the final few hours. For daily wear, expect to wind it each morning—a ritual that deepens the connection between owner and watch.

Occasions and Wrist Presence

The NH TYPE2C-2 is a versatile dress watch that shines in formal settings—whether paired with a tuxedo or a tailored suit. Its minimalist design also works well for daily wear, adding a touch of elegance to casual outfits. However, it is not a sport watch; the lack of lume and 50m water resistance make it unsuitable for outdoor activities. On the wrist, it commands attention without shouting. The exceptional finishing and subtle details—like the razor-sharp bevels on the hands—reward close inspection, yet remain understated in a crowd. We rate its wrist presence 4 out of 5.

Reference Variants and Family

The NH TYPE2C-2 is part of the Type 2 series, which includes the NH TYPE2A (with a time-only dial) and NH TYPE2B (with a small seconds at 9 o'clock). The C variant features the subdial at 6 o'clock, creating a more balanced symmetry. A sibling, the NH TYPE2C-1, offers a matte black dial with silver indices for a more dramatic look. All share the same case and movement, but the dial variations cater to different tastes.

Comparisons and Homages

In the world of independent watchmaking, the NH TYPE2C-2 is often compared to the Philippe Dufour Simplicity, which shares a similar philosophy of hand-finishing and minimalist design. However, the Simplicity commands a six-figure price, making the Hida a more accessible entry point. Grand Seiko's SBGW231 offers a similar dress watch with superb Zaratsu polishing, but its in-house movement and more industrial feel set it apart. For those on a budget, the Orient Bambino and Timex Marlin offer a taste of vintage style at a fraction of the cost, albeit with far less refinement.

Investment Value

The NH TYPE2C-2 retails for $30,000, and pre-owned examples typically sell in the $28,000–$35,000 range. Given the limited production (around 20 pieces per year) and the growing demand for independent watchmakers, the watch has remained stable in value. It is not an investment piece in the traditional sense, but a collector's item that will retain its worth if kept in pristine condition. No major auction history exists, as most owners hold onto their pieces.

Service and Maintenance

Service is recommended every 5 years and costs approximately $1,000. It must be performed by Naoya Hida's atelier in Tokyo, as the movement requires specialized expertise. Turnaround time is typically 3-6 months. While this may seem inconvenient, it ensures that the watch is maintained to the highest standard, preserving its value and performance.

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Final Verdict

The Naoya Hida NH TYPE2C-2 is a masterpiece of independent watchmaking, offering a pure, unadulterated horological experience. It is not a tool watch, nor a status symbol, but a work of art that celebrates the craft of watchmaking. For the young collector who values authenticity and is willing to invest in something truly special, this is a piece that will bring decades of quiet joy.