Introduction
In the crowded microbrand landscape, few names command the quiet respect of Oak & Oscar. Founded by Chase Fancher in 2015, the Chicago-based outfit has built a reputation for producing field watches that blend military heritage with modern finishing—and the Olmsted 38 is arguably their most refined execution yet. This isn't a hype watch; it's a slow-burn collector's piece that rewards those who appreciate subtle details over Instagram flash. For the trust-fund-baby buyer who already owns a Submariner and a Speedmaster, the Olmsted 38 offers a refreshingly understated alternative that doesn't scream for attention but still holds its value remarkably well on the secondary market.
At $1,150 retail, the Olmsted 38 sits in a sweet spot where it's accessible enough for a first 'serious' watch yet finished well enough to satisfy seasoned collectors. The pre-owned market has been remarkably stable, with examples trading between $800 and $1,000 depending on condition and strap configuration. That's a depreciation curve that would make many Swiss brands blush. But is it a hold or a flip? Let's dig into the data.
The Olmsted 38 is a purpose-built field watch with a 38mm case, 100m water resistance, and a reliable Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. It's not trying to reinvent the wheel—it's trying to perfect it. And for the most part, it succeeds. But as with any microbrand, there are trade-offs. This review will break down every aspect from a market-driven perspective, so you can decide whether to add it to your rotation or your watch box.
Brand History: Oak & Oscar
Oak & Oscar was founded in 2015 by Chase Fancher, a former graphic designer with a passion for vintage military watches. The brand's name is a nod to Chicago's Oak Park and the Oscar statuette—a quirky combination that reflects Fancher's creative background. From the start, Oak & Oscar focused on producing rugged, legible field watches with a distinctly American aesthetic. The Olmsted line, named after Frederick Law Olmsted, the landscape architect behind Chicago's parks, embodies the brand's philosophy: functional, understated, and built to last.
Unlike many microbrands that chase hype with limited editions and wild colorways, Oak & Oscar has taken a more measured approach. They release small batches, engage directly with their community, and prioritize quality over quantity. This has earned them a loyal following and a reputation for consistency. The Olmsted 38 is the culmination of years of feedback and refinement, and it shows.
Movement: Sellita SW200-1
At the heart of the Olmsted 38 beats the Sellita SW200-1, a Swiss automatic movement that has become the de facto standard for microbrands in this price range. It's a clone of the ETA 2824-2, offering 26 jewels, a 4Hz beat rate (28,800 vph), and a 38-hour power reserve. The movement is reliable, easy to service, and widely available—which means you won't be left stranded if something goes wrong.
Oak & Oscar doesn't go overboard with decoration, but the rotor is custom-branded with the brand's logo and a subtle perlage finish. The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback, which is a nice touch for the price. It's not a movement that will win awards for finishing, but it's honest and functional. For the trust-fund-baby buyer, this is a plus: you're paying for reliability, not for a movement that will need a $1,000 service in five years.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 38mm
- Case Thickness: 11.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 46mm
- Case Material: 316L stainless steel, fully brushed with polished bevels
- Crystal: Double-domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Water Resistance: 100 meters (screw-down crown)
- Lume: Super-LumiNova BGW9 (blue glow)
- Strap: Horween leather strap (20mm lug width) with signed pin buckle
- Clasp: Pin buckle (leather) or optional bracelet with deployant clasp
Wrist Feel
The Olmsted 38 wears like a dream. At 38mm wide and just 11.5mm thick, it slips under a dress shirt cuff with ease, yet the 46mm lug-to-lug ensures it doesn't look dainty on larger wrists. The case is fully brushed with polished bevels on the lugs—a subtle touch that catches light without being flashy. The leather strap is supple out of the box, though some collectors swap it for a NATO or a bracelet (Oak & Oscar offers a separate bracelet option). The weight is negligible at around 60g on leather, making it an ideal all-day companion. The crown is signed and screws down, adding to the robust feel. Balance is excellent; the watch never feels top-heavy or awkward.
Accuracy
In real-world testing, the Sellita SW200-1 inside the Olmsted 38 typically runs within -5 to +10 seconds per day. My sample averaged +6 s/d over a week of mixed wear. That's perfectly acceptable for a non-COSC movement. If you're a stickler for precision, you can regulate it, but for daily use, it's more than adequate. The 38-hour power reserve means you'll need to wind it if you skip a day, but that's par for the course with this caliber.
Occasions
The Olmsted 38 is a versatile piece that works for daily wear, casual dress, travel, and even light sport. It's not a dive watch, but 100m water resistance means you can swim with it. The clean dial and moderate size make it appropriate for business casual settings, and the lume ensures readability in low light. It's not a formal watch, but it can pass under a cuff if needed.
Wrist Presence: 3.5/5
The Olmsted 38 is a quiet achiever. It doesn't demand attention, but those in the know will recognize the quality. The lume is outstanding—BGW9 glows like a torch after a few minutes in the sun. The dial is clean and legible, with syringe-style hands and applied indices. It's not a watch that will get you compliments from strangers, but it will earn nods from fellow enthusiasts.
Reference Variants
Three main dial variants exist: black (OLM-38-001), blue (OLM-38-002), and sand (OLM-38-003). The sand dial was a limited run and now commands a slight premium on the secondary market. All come on Horween leather straps, but Oak & Oscar also offers a matching stainless steel bracelet for an additional $200. The bracelet is well-made with solid end links and a milled clasp, but it adds weight and changes the character of the watch.
Family and Similar Watches
The Olmsted 38 is part of a family that includes the original 40mm Olmsted (discontinued) and the upcoming Olmsted 38 GMT (not yet released). Other notable Oak & Oscar models include the Humboldt GMT, the Burnham Chronograph, and the Jackson Flyback Chronograph. In the broader market, the Olmsted 38 competes with the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm, the Seiko Alpinist SPB121, and the Christopher Ward C65 Sandhurst. All offer similar specs, but the Olmsted stands out for its finishing and lume.
Homages
For those on a tighter budget, the Seiko SNK809 ($150) and Timex Expedition Scout 40mm ($50) offer a similar field watch aesthetic. However, they lack the sapphire crystal, Swiss movement, and refined case finishing of the Olmsted. You get what you pay for.
Investment Value
The Olmsted 38 retails for $1,150 and holds its value well on the secondary market, typically trading between $800 and $1,000. The trend is stable, with no signs of depreciation beyond the initial hit. Limited dial variants like the sand can even appreciate slightly. This is not a flipper's watch—there's no hype cycle to ride—but it's a safe hold for the long term. Auction history is negligible; most sales happen on forums and eBay.
Service Interval
Oak & Oscar recommends servicing every 5 years. A full service for the Sellita SW200-1 costs around $250 from an independent watchmaker. Authorized service through Oak & Oscar is available but not required. The movement is robust and parts are plentiful, so you won't face long wait times.
Pros and Cons
Pros: Excellent lume, perfect 38mm case size, stable resale value, legible dial design, 100m water resistance with screw-down crown.
Cons: Standard Sellita movement with no decoration, leather strap is stiff initially, no bracelet included at base price, power reserve is only 38 hours, not a limited edition so no scarcity hype.
Final Verdict
The Oak & Oscar Olmsted 38 is a masterclass in restraint. It doesn't try to be everything to everyone—it just does one thing exceptionally well: be a reliable, legible, and beautifully proportioned field watch. For the collector who values subtlety over spectacle, it's a worthy addition. The secondary market stability makes it a safe bet, and the build quality rivals watches twice the price. If you're looking for a daily beater that also works with a blazer, this is it.
