Introduction
In a market flooded with dive watches and dress pieces, the field watch remains the quiet workhorse of horology. Oak & Oscar, the Chicago-based microbrand founded by Chase Fancher, has carved out a loyal following by delivering no-nonsense tool watches with a designer’s eye. The Sandford is their take on the classic field watch—a 38mm package that balances vintage proportions with modern reliability. It’s the kind of watch that doesn’t shout for attention but earns it through daily wear.
Named after a street in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood, The Sandford is a love letter to the city’s industrial roots. It’s also a watch that has quietly become a cult favorite among collectors who value legibility, durability, and a story. Whether you’re navigating a trail or a boardroom, this watch promises to be a faithful companion. Let’s dive into what makes it tick—and why it might just be the best field watch under $2,000.
Manufacture History
Oak & Oscar was founded in 2015 by Chase Fancher, a graphic designer turned watchmaker. Based in Chicago, the brand quickly gained a reputation for its thoughtful details—custom crowns, unique dial textures, and a strong sense of place. The Sandford, released in 2017, is their flagship field watch, inspired by the rugged simplicity of mid-century military timepieces. It’s a watch that embodies the brand’s philosophy: honest, well-made, and designed to be worn every day.
Movement
At the heart of The Sandford beats the Sellita SW200-1, a Swiss automatic movement that’s a direct descendant of the ETA 2824-2. It’s a workhorse caliber with 26 jewels, a 28,800 vph beat rate, and a 38-hour power reserve. While not COSC-certified, it’s reliable and easy to service. Oak & Oscar adds a custom rotor with perlage finishing, visible through the sapphire caseback. The movement hacks and hand-winds, making it practical for daily use. It’s not the most exotic movement, but it’s proven and robust—exactly what a field watch needs.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 38mm
- Case Thickness: 11.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 46mm
- Case Material: 316L stainless steel
- Crystal: Sapphire with double AR coating
- Water Resistance: 100 meters
- Lume: Super-LumiNova BGW9 (blue glow)
- Strap: Horween Chromexcel leather or NATO
- Clasp: Signed pin buckle
Wrist Feel
On the wrist, The Sandford wears like a vintage field watch that’s been updated for modern comfort. The 38mm case is a sweet spot for most wrists, and the 46mm lug-to-lug keeps it from overhanging. At just 11.5mm thick, it slides under a shirt cuff effortlessly. The leather strap from Horween is soft from day one, and the signed pin buckle adds a touch of class. The balance is near-perfect—light enough to forget you’re wearing it, but substantial enough to feel like a real tool. The crown is easy to grip and operates smoothly, a hallmark of Oak & Oscar’s attention to detail.
Accuracy
In real-world testing, the Sellita SW200-1 inside The Sandford typically runs within -5 to +10 seconds per day, depending on position and winding state. It’s not a chronometer, but for a field watch that’s meant to be worn daily, this level of accuracy is more than adequate. Expect to adjust the time once a week if you’re a stickler for precision. The hacking seconds feature makes setting easy.
Occasions
The Sandford is a versatile watch that works for daily wear, casual sport, travel, and even dressier occasions when paired with the leather strap. Its 100m water resistance means you can swim with it, though it’s not a dedicated dive watch. The clean dial and moderate size make it appropriate for the office or a weekend hike.
Wrist Presence
3.5/5 – It’s understated but purposeful. The Sandford doesn’t scream for attention, but the crisp dial and polished bezel catch light in a way that invites a second look. On a NATO strap, it’s pure tool; on the Horween leather, it dresses up surprisingly well.
Reference Variants
The Sandford has been released in several dial colors: black (OS-SF-001), white (OS-SF-002), and blue (OS-SF-003). Each comes with a Horween leather strap or NATO option. The black dial is the most classic, while the blue is a limited edition that’s harder to find.
Family References
Oak & Oscar also produces the Olmsted (chronograph) and the Humboldt (dive watch), but The Sandford remains their purest field watch. There is no GMT version of The Sandford as of this writing.
Other Notable Models by Oak & Oscar
Beyond The Sandford, Oak & Oscar offers The Olmsted (a 40mm chronograph with a Valjoux 7750), The Humboldt (a 40mm dive watch with 300m water resistance), and The Burnham (a 38mm dress watch). Each shares the brand’s design language and Chicago-inspired naming.
Similar Watches
If you’re considering The Sandford, you might also look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (38mm, hand-wound, military heritage), the Seiko Alpinist SPB121 (38mm, automatic, 100m WR, but with a compass bezel), or the Timex M79 Automatic (a budget-friendly alternative with a similar aesthetic).
Homages
For those on a tighter budget, the San Martin SN004-G offers a similar 38mm field watch design with a Seiko NH35 movement for around $199. The Addiesdive Field Watch 36mm is a quartz option for under $100, but lacks the Swiss movement and finishing of The Sandford.
Investment Value
The Sandford retails for $1,250 and holds its value reasonably well on the pre-owned market, typically selling for $800–$1,100. It’s not an appreciating asset, but it’s a solid value for a Swiss automatic field watch with a unique design. Auction history is negligible—this is a watch to wear, not to flip.
Service Interval
Oak & Oscar recommends servicing The Sandford every 5 years. A full service costs around $250 and can be done by any watchmaker familiar with Sellita movements. The brand also offers service through their Chicago workshop.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Perfect 38mm case size for most wrists
- Excellent legibility with high-contrast dial
- High-quality Horween leather strap
- Sapphire crystal with AR coating
- 100m water resistance for real-world use
Cons
- Sellita SW200-1 is a common movement, not in-house
- 38-hour power reserve is short by modern standards
- Limited availability – often sold out
- No bracelet option from the factory
Final Verdict
The Oak & Oscar The Sandford is a masterclass in restraint. It doesn’t try to be everything to everyone—it just does one thing exceptionally well: being a reliable, beautiful field watch. For the collector who values design integrity and a connection to place, this is a watch that will never feel dated. It’s a worthy addition to any rotation, especially if you appreciate the story behind the brand.
