Ressence TYPE 3.6 Marc Newson

Introduction

The Ressence TYPE 3.6 Marc Newson is a watch that defies convention. It is a mechanical instrument that uses oil to create a seamless, distortion-free display, and it abandons traditional hands in favor of rotating discs. This collaboration with Marc Newson, one of the most influential industrial designers of our time, elevates the concept to a new level of aesthetic purity.

For the young collector, this watch represents a bold departure from the norm. It is not a tribute to the past but a leap into the future. The TYPE 3.6 Marc Newson is a limited edition of 100 pieces, each numbered and signed. It is a piece that will be coveted for generations.

Brand History

Ressence was founded in 2010 by Benoît Mintiens, a Belgian designer with a background in industrial design. The brand's name is a portmanteau of 'Renaissance' and 'Essence', reflecting its mission to reinvent the way we perceive time. Ressence's signature is the orbital display system, where time is indicated by discs that rotate around a central axis, eliminating the need for hands. The oil-filled case, introduced with the TYPE 3, is another hallmark, providing a unique visual effect and enhancing legibility.

The collaboration with Marc Newson came about through a mutual appreciation for design and innovation. Newson, known for his work on the Apple Watch and various furniture pieces, brought a fresh perspective to the TYPE 3.6. The result is a watch that is both functional and sculptural.

Movement

At the heart of the TYPE 3.6 Marc Newson is a modified ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. This Swiss workhorse is known for its reliability, but Ressence has transformed it beyond recognition. The movement is stripped down and rebuilt to drive the orbital display system, which uses a series of gears and magnets to rotate the discs. The oil-filled capsule reduces friction and acts as a shock absorber, improving the movement's resilience.

The power reserve is 36 hours, which is modest by modern standards but acceptable for a watch of this nature. The frequency is 28,800 vph, ensuring smooth operation. The movement is not COSC-certified, but it performs within acceptable tolerances. The finishing is industrial, with a focus on function over decoration, but the custom rotor is a work of art in itself.

Case and Design

The 40mm titanium case is a marvel of engineering. It is lightweight yet robust, and the absence of a crown (winding is done via the case back) gives it a seamless, organic shape. The domed sapphire crystal is thick and curved, protecting the oil-filled capsule within. The case back is engraved with the Marc Newson signature and the limited edition number.

The dial is the star of the show. The gradient blue, a Newson signature, transitions from deep navy at the edges to a lighter azure in the center. The orbital discs are made of titanium and are coated with Super-LumiNova for low-light visibility. The date disc is integrated into the display, adding to the complexity. The oil-filled capsule creates a magnifying effect, making the time incredibly easy to read.

Wrist Feel and Wearability

On the wrist, the TYPE 3.6 Marc Newson is surprisingly comfortable. The titanium case weighs almost nothing, and the leather strap is soft and flexible. The watch sits low on the wrist, and the lack of a crown means it slides easily under a shirt cuff. The oil-filled capsule gives a slight weight shift when moving, but it is not distracting. This is a watch that can be worn all day without fatigue.

The 40mm diameter is versatile, suitable for both men and women. The lug-to-lug distance of 48mm ensures it fits most wrists. The water resistance of 30m is adequate for daily wear but not for swimming. The leather strap is not designed for water activities, so it's best to keep this watch away from moisture.

Accuracy and Performance

In real-world use, the TYPE 3.6 Marc Newson performs admirably. The modified ETA 2824-2 runs within -4 to +6 seconds per day, which is typical for a non-chronometer movement. The oil-filled capsule does not affect timekeeping but adds a layer of stability, reducing the impact of shocks. The power reserve of 36 hours is sufficient for a watch that is likely to be rotated in a collection. If worn daily, it will keep accurate time without issue.

Occasions and Styling

This watch is a chameleon. Its avant-garde design makes it a statement piece for formal events, while its comfort and legibility make it suitable for daily wear. The blue gradient dial pairs well with both casual and dress attire. It is not a sports watch, but it can handle a business meeting or a dinner party with ease. The limited edition nature adds an air of exclusivity that will impress fellow enthusiasts.

Investment Value

The Ressence TYPE 3.6 Marc Newson is a strong investment. With only 100 pieces produced, it is highly collectible. The collaboration with Marc Newson adds a layer of desirability that transcends the watch community. Pre-owned prices have been steadily rising, with unworn examples fetching over $40,000 at auction. The MSRP was $32,000, so early buyers have already seen appreciation. For the trust-fund-baby buyer, this is a piece that will only grow in value over time.

Service and Maintenance

Servicing the TYPE 3.6 Marc Newson is a specialized affair. The oil-filled capsule requires proprietary equipment to drain and refill, and the movement must be handled by trained technicians. Ressence recommends a service every 5 years, which costs approximately $1,200. This is higher than average, but it is a necessary cost for maintaining the watch's unique features. Only authorized service centers can perform this work, so it's important to factor this into the ownership experience.

Pros and Cons

• Pros: Revolutionary oil-filled display, lightweight titanium case, limited edition with design pedigree, comfortable and wearable.
• Cons: High service cost, limited water resistance, power reserve could be longer, not COSC certified.

Final Verdict

The Ressence TYPE 3.6 Marc Newson is a masterpiece of modern horology. It challenges the very notion of what a watch can be, and it does so with elegance and precision. For the collector who values innovation and design, this is an essential addition. The price is steep, but the exclusivity and craftsmanship justify it. This is a watch that will be remembered as a landmark in 21st-century watchmaking.