Introduction
The Richard Mille RM 055 is a watch that defies convention. From its tonneau-shaped case to its exposed movement, every element screams modernity. But beneath the avant-garde exterior lies a serious piece of horological engineering. Designed in collaboration with golfer Bubba Watson, the RM 055 is built for extreme lightness and shock resistance, making it a true tool watch for the 21st century.
This review dives deep into the movement architecture, case construction, and real-world wearability of the RM 055. We’ll examine how Richard Mille’s obsession with weight reduction and skeletonization translates into a watch that feels almost ethereal on the wrist, yet remains robust enough for daily wear. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a curious newcomer, the RM 055 offers a fascinating glimpse into the future of haute horlogerie.
Manufacture History
Richard Mille was founded in 2001 by the eponymous entrepreneur, who sought to create watches that combined the precision of Swiss watchmaking with the materials and engineering of Formula 1 cars. The brand quickly gained a reputation for its radical designs, use of titanium, carbon fiber, and ceramic, and its focus on lightweight, skeletonized movements. The RM 055, introduced in 2011, is a direct descendant of this philosophy. It was developed in partnership with professional golfer Bubba Watson, who required a watch that could withstand the forces of a golf swing without compromising accuracy or comfort.
Movement
At the heart of the RM 055 beats the in-house caliber RMAR1, an automatic movement with a 55-hour power reserve. The movement is fully skeletonized, with bridges and baseplate machined from grade 5 titanium. The variable-inertia balance wheel, free-sprung hairspring, and a fast-rotating barrel (6 hours per rotation) ensure excellent chronometric performance. The movement is COSC-certified, guaranteeing accuracy within -4 to +6 seconds per day. Finishing is industrial yet refined: circular graining, beveled edges, and a dark PVD coating give the movement a technical, almost architectural look. The rotor is also skeletonized and made of titanium, contributing to the overall lightness.
Specifications
- Case: 42mm x 13mm, grade 5 titanium
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 50 meters
- Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and hour markers
- Strap: Rubber with titanium deployant clasp
Wrist Feel
The RM 055 is astonishingly light. At just 48 grams including the rubber strap, it disappears on the wrist. The tonneau shape hugs the wrist comfortably, and the curved sapphire crystal ensures no sharp edges dig in. The rubber strap is soft and flexible, with a titanium deployant clasp that secures without pinching. Despite its large diameter, the watch wears smaller than expected thanks to the integrated lugs and the way the case curves. It’s a watch you can wear all day without fatigue, whether you’re at the office or on the golf course. The skeletonized dial offers excellent legibility, with bold hour markers and hands that stand out against the open-worked movement.
Accuracy
The RM 055 typically runs within -3 to +5 seconds per day in real-world conditions, thanks to the COSC-certified movement and the variable-inertia balance. The free-sprung balance allows for fine regulation, and the movement is robust enough to maintain accuracy even during active wear.
Occasions
The RM 055 is best suited for sport and daily wear. Its lightweight construction and rubber strap make it ideal for active pursuits, while the avant-garde design ensures it stands out in casual and smart-casual settings. It’s less appropriate for formal occasions, where a more traditional dress watch would be preferred.
Wrist Presence
5/5 – The RM 055 commands attention without being ostentatious. Its skeletonized dial and titanium case create a technical, industrial look that watch enthusiasts will appreciate. On the wrist, it’s a conversation starter, but the lightweight construction keeps it from feeling like a burden.
Reference Variants
The RM 055 is available in several variants: the Bubba Watson edition with white accents, a carbon fiber version, and a full titanium model with grey PVD. Each offers a slightly different aesthetic while retaining the same core movement and case architecture.
Family and Other Models
The RM 055 belongs to the RM 05x family, which includes the RM 055-01, 055-02, and 055-03. Other notable Richard Mille models include the RM 011 (flyback chronograph), RM 27-01 (tourbillon for Rafael Nadal), and RM 35-01 (Rafa’s automatic).
Similar Watches
If you appreciate the RM 055’s lightweight, skeletonized design, consider the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver (similar sporty vibe), Hublot Big Bang Unico (avant-garde materials), or Ressence Type 1 (modern aesthetic).
Investment Value
The RM 055 has an MSRP of $120,000 and holds its value well on the pre-owned market, typically trading between $90,000 and $130,000. The trend is stable, making it a reasonable long-term hold for collectors. No major auction history exists, as most sales occur through private channels.
Service and Maintenance
Richard Mille recommends a service every 5 years, costing approximately $2,500. Due to the complexity of the movement and proprietary materials, service must be performed by an authorized Richard Mille service center.
Pros and Cons
Pros: Extremely lightweight, beautifully skeletonized movement, robust and shock-resistant, unique design. Cons: Very high price, limited water resistance, polarizing aesthetic, expensive service.
Final Verdict
The Richard Mille RM 055 is a masterclass in modern watchmaking. It combines cutting-edge materials, a beautifully skeletonized movement, and a design that is both functional and artistic. While the price and polarizing looks may deter some, those who appreciate lightweight engineering and avant-garde aesthetics will find it an exceptional companion. It’s not just a watch; it’s a statement of intent.
