Manufacture History

Richard Mille was founded in 2001 by Dominique Guenat and Richard Mille, aiming to create ultra-luxury watches with racing-inspired aesthetics. The brand quickly gained a cult following for its tonneau cases, skeletonized movements, and celebrity partnerships. The RM 055 Bubba Watson, launched in 2011, is a prime example of Richard Mille's focus on lightweight materials and complex tourbillons. Bubba Watson, a two-time Masters champion, has been a brand ambassador since 2010, and the RM 055 is his signature tourbillon. The partnership has been mutually beneficial, raising both Watson's profile and Richard Mille's presence in the golf world.

Richard Mille's approach to watchmaking is unique. The brand doesn't follow traditional conventions; instead, it creates watches that look like they belong on the wrist of a Formula 1 driver or a professional golfer. The RM 055 is designed to be worn during a round of golf, which is why it's so lightweight and comfortable. But it's also a tourbillon, which is one of the most prestigious complications in horology. This combination of sport and haute horlogerie is what makes Richard Mille so appealing to young collectors.

Movement

At the heart of the RM 055 is the Caliber RM055, a manual-winding tourbillon movement. It offers a 55-hour power reserve and beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz). The movement is skeletonized, with grade 5 titanium bridges, allowing you to see the intricate mechanics. The tourbillon is positioned at 6 o'clock, while the power reserve indicator sits at 11 o'clock. With 19 jewels, this is a high-complication movement that showcases Richard Mille's engineering prowess. It is not COSC-certified, but Richard Mille regulates each movement to high standards.

The RM055 movement is a work of art. The skeletonization is not just for aesthetics; it reduces weight and allows for a better view of the tourbillon cage. The titanium bridges are treated with a black PVD coating, which gives the movement a modern, technical look. The finishing is impeccable, with chamfered edges and polished screws. This is a movement that you can stare at for hours, discovering new details each time.

Specifications

The RM 055 features a grade 5 titanium case, which is both lightweight and durable. The case measures 50mm lug-to-lug and 13.05mm thick, giving it a substantial presence on the wrist. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters, which is sufficient for everyday wear but not for serious diving. The crystal is sapphire, and the watch comes on a rubber strap with a deployant clasp. The hands are treated with Super-LumiNova for low-light visibility. The skeletonized dial is a work of art, with the tourbillon cage and gear train on full display.

The titanium case is a key feature of the RM 055. Grade 5 titanium is used in aerospace and medical implants, so it's incredibly strong and corrosion-resistant. It's also about 45% lighter than steel, which makes a big difference in comfort. The case is finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, giving it a sophisticated look. The rubber strap is integrated into the case, which not only looks seamless but also ensures a comfortable fit. The deployant clasp is titanium and features the Richard Mille logo.

Wrist Feel

The RM 055 is surprisingly comfortable for a watch of its stature. The grade 5 titanium case is incredibly lightweight, and the curved profile hugs the wrist well. The 50mm lug-to-lug and 13.05mm thickness mean it's not a small watch, but it wears more like a 42mm round watch due to its tonneau shape. The rubber strap is supple and integrates seamlessly with the case, making it ideal for active wear. It's a watch you can wear all day without fatigue, though you'll always be aware of its presence.

One of the best things about the RM 055 is how well it balances on the wrist. Despite its size, it doesn't feel top-heavy. The curved caseback sits flush against the wrist, and the rubber strap keeps the watch in place. It's perfect for golf, as it won't slide around during a swing. It's also comfortable enough for daily wear. If you have a smaller wrist, you might find it a bit large, but for most collectors, it's a wearable statement piece.

Accuracy

As a tourbillon, the RM 055 is not COSC-certified, but Richard Mille regulates its movements to high standards. In real-world use, you can expect accuracy within -5 to +5 seconds per day. The tourbillon helps mitigate positional errors, so it's a reliable timekeeper. However, like all high-complication watches, it benefits from regular servicing to maintain optimal performance.

It's worth noting that tourbillons are not necessarily more accurate than standard movements in everyday wear. They were originally designed for pocket watches that stayed in one position. In a wristwatch, the tourbillon is more of a demonstration of craftsmanship than a practical accuracy enhancer. That said, the RM 055 is still a precise instrument, and you won't be disappointed with its timekeeping.

Occasions and Wrist Presence

The RM 055 is versatile enough for sport, daily wear, formal events, and travel. Its sporty rubber strap and titanium case make it perfect for casual outings, while the tourbillon and skeletonized dial add a touch of elegance for formal occasions. On the wrist, it has a 5/5 presence. It's a Richard Mille; everyone will notice. The skeletonized dial and tourbillon are conversation starters, and the brand's cachet ensures you'll be the center of attention.

Whether you're at a charity gala or on the golf course, the RM 055 fits right in. It's a watch that says you've arrived. The only place it might not be appropriate is in a strictly conservative business setting, where a Richard Mille might be seen as too flashy. But for the wealthy collector, that's not a concern.

Reference Variants

There are several variants of the RM 055, each with subtle differences. The original Bubba Watson comes with a black rubber strap and skeleton dial. The White edition features white accents and a white strap. The Black edition has a black titanium case and black accents. There are also Americas and Asia limited editions with unique accents. All share the same RM055 movement and titanium case.

The White edition is particularly striking, with its white strap and white accents on the dial. It's a great summer watch. The Black edition is more stealthy, with a black PVD coating on the titanium case. The Americas and Asia editions are limited to those markets, making them more collectible. If you're looking for an investment, the limited editions are the ones to watch.

Family References and Other Models

The RM 055 is part of Richard Mille's Bubba Watson family, which includes the RM 038 Bubba Watson. Other notable Richard Mille models include the RM 011, RM 035, RM 027, RM 030, RM 037, RM 050, RM 052, and RM 056. Each offers a different take on the brand's signature aesthetic.

The RM 038 was the first Bubba Watson tourbillon, and it set the stage for the RM 055. The RM 011 is a chronograph, the RM 035 is the Rafael Nadal model, and the RM 027 is the tourbillon for Nadal. The RM 050 and RM 052 are more extreme, with split-seconds chronographs and tourbillons. The RM 056 is a sapphire-cased tourbillon, one of the most expensive Richard Mille models. If you like the RM 055, you'll likely appreciate these other models as well.

Similar Watches

If you're considering the RM 055, you might also look at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon, the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Tourbillon, and the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes. These watches offer similar levels of craftsmanship and exclusivity.

The Royal Oak Tourbillon is a classic, with a more traditional design. The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon is more modern and aggressive. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Tourbillon is bold and skeletonized, similar in spirit to the RM 055. The Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes is a high-end independent watch with incredible finishing. Each has its own merits, but none have the same brand cachet as Richard Mille.

Homages

There are no direct homages to the RM 055, as its complex tourbillon movement and unique design are difficult to replicate at an affordable price. The closest you'll get are generic skeleton tourbillons from microbrands, but they lack the cachet and finishing of a Richard Mille.

If you're on a budget, you might consider a skeletonized watch from brands like Seagull or Perpetual, but these are not true homages. They simply share the skeleton aesthetic. The RM 055 is in a league of its own.

Investment Value

The RM 055 originally retailed for around $300,000. Today, it is discontinued, and pre-owned examples trade between $200,000 and $350,000. The trend has been appreciating, thanks to Richard Mille's growing popularity and the limited supply of tourbillon models. This is a solid hold. Flipping might yield quick profits, but long-term hold is wiser. Auction history is limited, but the RM 055 has strong private-market demand.

Richard Mille has been one of the best-performing watch brands in the secondary market. The RM 055, in particular, has benefited from Bubba Watson's continued success and the brand's overall momentum. While the market can be volatile, the RM 055 has shown resilience. If you can get one at retail, you're almost guaranteed to make money. But since it's discontinued, you'll have to buy pre-owned. The key is to find a well-preserved example with box and papers. Limited editions like the Americas and Asia are even more desirable.

Service Interval

Richard Mille recommends servicing every few years, though the exact interval depends on usage. Service must be performed by Richard Mille authorized service centers, and costs are significant due to the tourbillon complexity. Expect to pay a substantial amount, but it's part of owning a high-complication watch.

For a tourbillon like the RM 055, service costs can range from $5,000 to $15,000, depending on what needs to be done. The movement is complex, and parts are expensive. Richard Mille has a reputation for excellent service, but it comes at a price. It's important to factor this into your ownership costs. If you're buying pre-owned, check the service history.

Pros and Cons

Final Verdict

The RM 055 Bubba Watson is a tourbillon that combines sporty aesthetics with haute horlogerie. It's a must-have for the young collector who wants to flex both wealth and taste. Just be prepared for the maintenance costs. If you can afford it, it's a watch that will bring joy and hold its value. Hold, don't flip.