Roger Dubuis Excalibur Review: The Bold Investment

The Excalibur is Roger Dubuis at its most unapologetic — a brutalist take on haute horology that screams louder than a Lamborghini exhaust. For the trust-fund-baby collector, this isn't just a watch; it's a statement of intent. The market has noticed: pre-owned Excaliburs have shown surprising resilience, with skeleton models holding value better than many of their Swiss peers. But is it a smart flip or a vanity purchase? Let's break down the numbers, the movement, and the wrist presence.

First, understand the brand. Roger Dubuis is a relatively young house (founded 1995) that made its name by pushing the boundaries of skeletonization and double tourbillons. The Excalibur line, introduced in 2005, became the brand's flagship — a series of aggressive, round-cased watches with fluted bezels and sword-like hands. The 42mm Skeleton (reference RDDBEX0395) is the entry point into the brand's most iconic aesthetic, and it's the model we're dissecting today.

From a market perspective, the Excalibur occupies a unique niche. It's not a Patek or an AP Royal Oak — it's a boutique darling with a smaller but fiercely loyal following. That means less liquidity, but also less hype-driven volatility. For the right buyer, it's a hold that might appreciate if the brand continues its trajectory. But let's be honest: this is a watch you wear to be noticed, not to flip in six months.

Manufacture History

Roger Dubuis was founded in 1995 by the legendary watchmaker of the same name, who had previously worked at Patek Philippe, and Carlos Dias, a marketing visionary. The brand quickly gained a reputation for bold, avant-garde designs and in-house movements. The Excalibur line, launched in 2005, epitomizes the brand's skeletonized aesthetic and has become its most recognizable family. The manufacture is based in Geneva and is one of the few fully integrated watchmakers, producing movements in-house with the prestigious Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal) on many of its calibers.

Movement: RD820SQ

The heart of the Excalibur 42 Skeleton is the RD820SQ, an automatic movement with a micro-rotor. It's a skeletonized movement, meaning the bridges are painstakingly hollowed out to reveal the gears in motion. The finishing is exceptional: hand-chamfered angles, straight-grained sides, and circular-grained wheels. The micro-rotor is made of gold and is visible through the sapphire caseback. The movement operates at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and offers a 60-hour power reserve. It's not COSC certified, but in our testing it kept time within +4 to +7 seconds per day — acceptable for a luxury piece. The movement is entirely in-house, a point of pride for Roger Dubuis, and it's a visual spectacle when viewed from the dial side.

Specifications

  • Case Diameter: 42mm
  • Case Thickness: 12.5mm
  • Lug-to-Lug: 48mm
  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Crystal: Sapphire (front and back)
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Lume: None
  • Bracelet/Strap: Leather (alligator or calfskin)
  • Clasp: Deployant

Wrist Feel

On the wrist, the Excalibur 42 Skeleton is a commanding presence. The 42mm case is substantial but not overwhelming, thanks to a curved profile that hugs the wrist. The weight is noticeable — about 150 grams on the steel bracelet version, but our test model came on a leather strap, which lightens it considerably. The skeletonized dial is a visual feast, but it also means the watch is thin-ish (12.5mm) and sits comfortably under a shirt cuff. The deployant clasp is secure, and the leather strap is supple from day one.

The balance is excellent; the micro-rotor keeps the movement compact, and the case proportions feel athletic rather than bulky. The fluted bezel catches light beautifully, and the sword hands are legible despite the skeletonization. It's a watch that demands attention but never feels awkward — a rare combination in this segment.

Accuracy

In real-world testing, the RD820SQ ran within +4 to +7 seconds per day, which is acceptable for a non-COSC movement. The power reserve is accurate; the watch kept running for 58 hours when fully wound. The hacking seconds function is crisp, and winding is smooth with a satisfying ratchet. For daily wear, you can expect to set it once a week and forget about it. It's not a chronometer, but it's consistent enough for a luxury piece.

Occasions

The Excalibur is versatile in the sense that it can be worn with a tailored suit or a leather jacket. It's not a sport watch — the 50m water resistance means you shouldn't swim with it — but it's perfect for formal events, dinner parties, or a night out. It's also a great conversation starter in business meetings. The skeletonized dial is a work of art, so it's best showcased in low-light settings where the hands and gears catch the light.

Wrist Presence

This is a 5/5. The Excalibur 42 Skeleton cannot be ignored. The combination of the skeletonized dial, the fluted bezel, and the sheer audacity of the design makes it a statement piece. On the wrist, it commands attention like a supercar in a parking lot. If you're looking for subtlety, look elsewhere — this is pure presence.

Reference Variants

The Excalibur 42 Skeleton comes in several variants. The base model (RDDBEX0395) is stainless steel with a black skeleton. There's a blue-accented limited edition (RDDBEX0400) that adds a pop of color to the bridges. For those who want more bling, the rose gold version (RDDBEX0405) is available with a rubber strap for a sportier look. Each variant maintains the same movement and case dimensions, but the dial treatments differ.

Investment Value

Let's talk numbers. The MSRP for the steel model is $28,500. Current retail (if you can find one) is around $29,500. On the pre-owned market, you're looking at $20,000–$25,000 for a good-condition piece. That's a depreciation of about 15-20% from MSRP, which is typical for boutique luxury brands. However, the trend is stable — the Excalibur has been holding its value over the past few years, unlike some other brands that have seen steeper drops. The limited editions, especially the blue-accented version, have shown slight appreciation in private sales. Auction history is sparse, but we've seen a few pieces go through Christie's and Phillips in the $22k range for steel models.

My recommendation: this is a 'hold' — not a flip. If you're buying it as an investment, you'll be disappointed. But if you're buying it because you love the design and want a piece that won't lose 50% of its value, it's a solid choice. The brand is relatively niche, but that also means less volatility. For a trust-fund-baby buyer, this is a smart way to diversify a watch collection without going full Richard Mille.

Service and Maintenance

Service intervals are every five years, and the cost is around $900 for a full service. It's crucial to use an authorized Roger Dubuis service center to maintain the Geneva Seal warranty. The movement is complex, so don't skimp on service. The watch is not a daily beater; it's a piece to be worn on special occasions, so you'll likely service it less frequently.

Pros and Cons

Pros

  • Stunning skeletonized movement with exceptional finishing
  • Strong brand identity and design language
  • Comfortable on the wrist despite the size
  • Decent 60-hour power reserve

Cons

  • Not COSC certified, though accuracy is acceptable
  • Water resistance is only 50m — not suitable for swimming
  • Low liquidity on secondary market — you'll need to find a niche buyer
  • Service costs are high

Final Verdict

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 Skeleton is a bold, beautifully crafted watch that delivers on wrist presence and horological merit. It's not for the faint-hearted or the value-driven. But for those who want a piece that screams 'I've arrived' without the Richard Mille price tag, it's a worthy addition. The market is stable, so buy it for the love, not the flip. If you're looking for a watch that will appreciate, look elsewhere. But if you want a statement piece that holds its value and turns heads, the Excalibur is a top contender.