Serge Lutens Fragrance review
Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille: A Masterpiece of Gourmand Art
An in-depth look at Christopher Sheldrake's iconic 2003 vanilla classic.
In this review
Released in 2003, Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille remains a benchmark in the world of niche perfumery. Crafted by Christopher Sheldrake, this fragrance shifted the perception of vanilla from a simplistic, sugary additive to a sophisticated, woody, and resinous olfactory experience.
As part of the Les Eaux de Politesse and the wider Serge Lutens portfolio, Un Bois Vanille captures the essence of a dark, mysterious forest floor infused with the warmth of high-quality vanilla beans. It is a fragrance that balances the line between edible gourmand and serious, artistic perfumery.
$120-$160
Accords
sweet
gourmand
woody
coconut
powdery
Notes Pyramid
Top
Mexican vanillaliquorice
Heart
coconut milkbeeswaxbitter almond
Base
sandalwoodtonka beanbenzoinguaiac woodmusk
Performance Dashboard
Longevity
8-12+ hours
Projection
moderate to strong
Sillage
strong
When to Wear
SpringOK
SummerAvoid
FallAvoid
WinterBest
evening eventscold weather casual wearintimate gatherings
Pros & Cons
- Exceptional longevity
- Unique, non-linear vanilla profile
- High-quality resinous base
- Can be too sweet for some
- Strong presence may not suit office environments
Price & Value
$120-$160
“Excellent value for the niche market given the complexity and longevity.”
Reformulation History
No significant batch variations reported
The Family
Un Bois Vanille (Limited Edition)
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Layering Ideas
- Layer with a clean musk to brighten the composition
- Combine with a spicy incense scent to emphasize the woody base
Final Verdict
Un Bois Vanille is a foundational fragrance for any vanilla lover. Its ability to balance gourmand sweetness with deep, woody resins makes it a timeless staple in the Serge Lutens collection.
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Serge LutensVanillaGourmandNiche FragranceUnisex