Speake-Marin Openworked HMS: The Independent's Skeleton
In an era where every brand from here to Geneva is slapping a skeletonized dial on a generic movement, Speake-Marin stands apart. The Openworked HMS is not a gimmick; it's a genuine showcase of haute horlogerie, born from a British watchmaker with a reverence for classical craftsmanship. This reference 413813330 is a stainless steel rendition, but the brand offers it in various metals. For this review, we focus on the steel version, which is the most accessible entry point into the brand's world.
Brand History: A Maverick's Vision
Peter Speake-Marin started his career restoring vintage pieces, including the famous 'Foundation Watch' for the British Horological Institute. In 2002, he launched his own brand, quickly gaining a cult following for the Piccadilly case—a round case with a distinct, fluted crown inspired by a pocket watch he once restored. The brand is headquartered in Switzerland, producing limited quantities each year. The Openworked HMS is a natural evolution, showcasing the in-house movement that has been fully skeletonized.
Movement: A Skeletonized Symphony
At the heart of the Openworked HMS is an automatic movement that has been meticulously openworked. The bridges are hand-chamfered and polished, the gears are visible, and the mainspring barrel is decorated with a sunray pattern. The balance wheel oscillates at a standard 4Hz, though we won't list exact specs as they vary by iteration. The finishing is what sets it apart: every angle is bevelled, every screw is mirror-polished. This is not machine-made; it's human artistry.
The movement is not COSC-certified, but it's regulated to acceptable standards. For a collector, the accuracy is secondary to the visual drama. The skeletonization reduces the material, making the watch lighter and allowing light to play through the movement. It's a living, breathing mechanism on your wrist.
Case and Wearability
The Piccadilly case is iconic, with its distinctive shape and oversized crown. The fluted sides add grip and visual interest. The case is likely around 40mm, but we won't speculate on exact dimensions. What we can say is that it wears comfortably, with a balanced weight that disappears on the wrist. The sapphire crystal is domed, adding a vintage feel. The leather strap is high-quality, and the deployant clasp is secure.
On the wrist, the Openworked HMS is a conversation piece. It's not a tool watch; it's a statement of taste. It's best suited for formal occasions or evenings out, but it can be worn daily if you're careful. The openworked dial is delicate—dust and moisture are enemies. But for a collector, that's part of the charm.
Market Analysis: Hold or Flip?
Speake-Marin is a true independent, producing around 1,000 watches per year. This scarcity means the secondary market is thin. Unlike a Rolex or Patek, you won't find these at every dealer. Prices for pre-owned pieces vary widely, but they tend to stabilize after an initial depreciation from retail. This is a passion asset, not a financial one.
Our recommendation: buy pre-owned, negotiate hard, and hold it for the long term. The brand is growing slowly, and if it ever gains wider recognition, your piece could appreciate. But don't count on it. Instead, buy it for the joy of wearing a hand-finished skeleton that few others will recognize.
Pros and Cons
- Pros: Exceptional finishing, rarity, distinctive design, in-house movement.
- Cons: Thin resale market, high service costs, not a daily beater, risk of damage to openworked movement.
Final Thoughts
The Speake-Marin Openworked HMS is a horological treasure for those who appreciate the craft over the hype. It's a watch that rewards close inspection, a private pleasure for the owner. While it may not be the best investment in your portfolio, it's an investment in your personal enjoyment. If you have the means, it's a worthy addition to any serious collection.
