Squale Matic S

The Shark in the Room: Why Squale Still Matters

In the landscape of modern horology, there are brands that market history, and then there are brands that are history. Squale belongs firmly in the latter camp. If you’ve ever admired a vintage dive watch from the 1960s or 70s and noticed a small shark logo at the six o’clock position, you’ve encountered the mark of Charles von Büren. For decades, Squale didn't just make watches; they made the cases that allowed the industry’s giants to survive the crushing pressures of the deep. The Matic S, specifically the reference MATICGBKBK.MRBK, is the culmination of that technical expertise, wrapped in a package that feels decidedly 21st-century.

To understand the Matic S, you have to understand the 1521. The 1521 is Squale’s most famous model—a 42mm diver that defined the 'skin diver' era. But as watch enthusiasts began to crave more—more depth, more presence, more 'wrist estate'—Squale realized they needed a big brother. Enter the Matic. It takes the classic silhouette and pumps it up to 44mm, increases the water resistance to a staggering 600 meters, and adds a level of refinement that moves the brand away from purely 'tool' territory and into the realm of luxury sport.

The Case: A Masterclass in Ergonomics

The standout feature of the Matic S is, without question, the case. It utilizes the legendary 'Von Büren' case shape, characterized by its 4 o'clock crown and aggressively curved lugs. While a 44mm diameter usually scares off the 'slim-wrist' crowd, the Matic S is a bit of a shapeshifter. Because the lugs curve so sharply downward, the 51mm lug-to-lug measurement feels much shorter on the wrist. It wraps around the arm rather than sitting on top of it.

The finish on this reference is a high-polish steel. In a world where every diver is moving toward matte titanium or brushed finishes, the high-polish Matic S feels like a bold, culture-forward choice. It catches the light in a way that reminds you of the chrome on a vintage Italian sports car. It’s flashy, yes, but in a way that feels intentional and high-end. The crown is recessed into the case at the 4 o’clock position, ensuring it doesn't dig into the back of your hand—a nod to its professional diving roots where mobility is key.

The Dial and Bezel: Depth in Every Sense

The 'GBKBK' in the reference number stands for 'Glossy Black' dial and 'Black' bezel. This monochromatic execution is where the Matic S finds its 'Noir' identity. The dial is a deep, inky black that provides the perfect backdrop for the oversized applied markers. These aren't just printed; they have polished surrounds that mirror the case finish, creating a cohesive visual language across the entire piece.

The bezel is perhaps the most impressive technical feat on the exterior. Unlike the aluminum or ceramic inserts used by most brands, Squale uses a unique construction involving a steel bezel with a sapphire or enamel-like inlay (depending on the specific production run) that mimics the look of vintage Bakelite. It’s protected by the steel bezel structure itself, which is screwed into the case. This isn't just for show; it’s a 'pressure-fit' system that ensures the bezel won't pop off during a dive. The 60-click action is tactile, heavy, and satisfying—it feels like turning the dial on a high-end safe.

The Crystal: A Window to the Deep

Sitting atop the dial is a massive, double-domed sapphire crystal. It is beautifully AR-coated, reducing glare and allowing the dial to remain legible at extreme angles. The dome adds a significant amount of height to the watch (bringing it to 16mm), but it also provides that vintage 'warmth' usually associated with acrylic crystals, without the vulnerability to scratches. When you look at the watch from the side, the distortion created by the dome gives the dial a liquid appearance, as if the watch is already submerged.

The Movement: The Industry Workhorse

Inside the Matic S beats the Sellita SW200-1 in its Elaboré grade. Now, I know what the movement snobs are going to say: 'It’s not in-house.' And to that, I say: 'Good.' When you’re buying a Squale, you’re buying the case, the history, and the design. You want a movement that is bulletproof, easy to fix, and won't cost you $1,000 to service in five years. The SW200-1 is exactly that. It’s the Swiss industry standard for a reason. In the Elaboré grade, it’s adjusted in more positions than the standard version, ensuring better accuracy out of the box.

The 38-hour power reserve is, admittedly, the one area where the watch feels a bit behind the times. In an era where 70-hour reserves are becoming common, the Matic S requires you to wear it or wind it every day and a half. But for the daily wearer, this is a non-issue. The winding action is smooth, and the date clicks over crisply at midnight.

The Wrist Feel and Styling

On the Milanese mesh bracelet, the Matic S is a vibe. It leans into that 1970s Mediterranean diver aesthetic. It’s the kind of watch you wear with a crisp linen shirt and tailored trousers, or conversely, with a heavy-duty puffer jacket and technical streetwear. It’s versatile because it doesn't try to be a 'submariner clone.' It has its own personality.

The weight is substantial. You will know you are wearing this watch. But because of the ergonomic case, it doesn't feel fatiguing. It feels solid—like a piece of equipment. If you’re used to 36mm vintage pieces, this will be a shock to the system. But if you appreciate the 'overbuilt' philosophy of brands like Panerai or Breitling, the Squale will feel right at home, albeit with a much slimmer price tag.

Cultural Relevance: Why Now?

We are currently seeing a shift in the watch world. The 'hype' watches are cooling off, and collectors are looking for 'real' brands—brands with authentic stories and unique designs. Squale is perfectly positioned for this. It’s a brand that athletes like freediver Enzo Maiorca wore to break world records. It’s a brand that military units have actually used. When you wear a Matic S, you aren't wearing a marketing campaign; you’re wearing a tool that was designed to save lives at 600 meters below the surface.

In the age of social media, the Matic S is also incredibly photogenic. The way the light plays off the polished surfaces and the domed crystal makes it a standout in any 'wrist shot.' It’s a conversation starter. People will ask, 'What is that?' and you get to tell them the story of the shark logo and the birth of the modern dive watch.

The Verdict

The Squale Matic S (ref. MATICGBKBK.MRBK) is a lot of watch for $1,500. You’re getting 600 meters of water resistance, a legendary case design, Swiss-made construction, and a look that is entirely its own. It’s not a watch for everyone—its size and polish make sure of that. But for the collector who wants a professional-grade diver with a bit of Italian flair and a lot of Swiss history, it’s hard to beat.

If you can handle the 44mm presence, the Matic S offers a level of satisfaction that many watches at double the price fail to deliver. It’s a reminder that you don't need to spend five figures to get a watch with a soul. Sometimes, all you need is a shark on the dial and a case that was born in the golden age of exploration.