Introduction
The Squale Sub-39 (ref. SUB-39BL.BR22) is a modern reinterpretation of the brand’s classic dive watch DNA, scaled down to a more wearable 39mm. For collectors who love the look of a robust diver but find 42mm cases too bulky, this watch offers a compelling alternative. It’s a tool watch that doesn’t sacrifice comfort, and it’s built to survive a real week on the wrist—from the office to the weekend.
Squale, founded in 1959 in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, originally supplied cases and dials to other brands before launching its own line. The Sub-39 pays homage to that heritage with a clean, no-nonsense dial, a unidirectional bezel, and a screw-down crown. The blue dial variant (BL) is particularly striking, with a sunburst finish that catches light beautifully. This review focuses on how the watch actually wears day-to-day, its legibility, and its real-world performance.
Manufacture History
Squale began as a case manufacturer for other dive watch brands, earning a reputation for robust, water-resistant designs. In the 1960s they launched their own line of professional dive watches, often used by military and commercial divers. Today Squale continues to produce heritage-inspired divers with Swiss movements, blending vintage aesthetics with modern reliability.
Movement
The Sub-39 is powered by the Sellita SW200-1, a workhorse automatic movement based on the ETA 2824-2 architecture. It beats at 28,800 vph (4Hz) and offers a 38-hour power reserve. While not COSC-certified, Squale regulates it to within -10/+20 seconds per day. The movement is reliable, easy to service, and widely available. For a daily wearer at this price point, it’s a sensible choice.
Specifications
- Case diameter: 39mm
- Case thickness: 12.5mm
- Lug-to-lug: 48mm
- Case material: 316L stainless steel
- Crystal: Sapphire with double AR coating
- Water resistance: 100m (330ft)
- Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and indices
- Bracelet: Oyster-style with folding clasp and diver’s extension
- Clasp: Folding with safety lock
Wrist Feel
The Sub-39 is a masterclass in wearability. With a 39mm case diameter and a compact 48mm lug-to-lug, it fits a wide range of wrists—from 6-inch to 7.5-inch wrists comfortably. The case is only 12.5mm thick, which is slim for a diver, and the downward-curving lugs hug the wrist without protruding. The bracelet is solid, with brushed links and a comfortable folding clasp that includes a diver’s extension. The weight is balanced: not too heavy, not too light. After a week of wear, I forgot I had it on—the ultimate compliment for a daily watch.
The crown is signed and easy to grip, though it’s not screw-down? Actually it is screw-down for 100m water resistance. The bezel action is crisp with 120 clicks, and the sapphire crystal has a slight dome that adds vintage charm without distorting the dial. The blue sunburst dial is legible in all lighting, and the hands are generously filled with Super-LumiNova that glows brightly after a charge.
Accuracy
In real-world wear, the SW200-1 movement ran consistently at about +6 seconds per day when worn for 8-10 hours. Overnight in a crown-up position, it gained an additional +2 seconds. Over a week, the average deviation was +7 seconds per day, well within Squale’s stated tolerance. For a non-COSC movement, this is excellent and perfectly acceptable for daily use.
Occasions
The Sub-39 is versatile enough for daily wear, sport activities (swimming, hiking), and even dressier settings thanks to its modest size. It’s also a great travel companion with its robust construction and 100m water resistance.
Wrist Presence
4/5 – The 39mm case and blue dial command attention without being flashy. It’s a classic diver that looks at home under a cuff or with a wetsuit.
Reference Variants
The SUB-39BL.BR22 is the blue dial on bracelet. Other variants include the SUB-39BL.CA22 (blue dial on rubber strap) and the SUB-39BK.BR22 (black dial on bracelet). All share the same case and movement.
Family References
Other Squale models include the 1521 (42mm), 20 Atmos (40mm), and 30 Atmos GMT (42mm). The Sub-39 is the smallest modern diver in the lineup.
Other Notable Models by Squale
Squale also produces the 1521 (a classic 42mm diver), the 20 Atmos (a 40mm diver with a more vintage look), and the 30 Atmos GMT (a 42mm GMT diver).
Similar Watches
If you like the Sub-39, consider the Tudor Black Bay 58 (39mm, in-house movement, higher price), the Longines HydroConquest 39mm (ceramic bezel, in-house movement), or the Seiko SPB143 (40.5mm, 6R35 movement, more affordable).
Homages
For a budget option, the Steeldive SD1970 (42mm, NH35 movement, ~$120) offers a similar vintage diver aesthetic, though it’s larger and less refined.
Investment Value
The Sub-39 retails for $1,350 and pre-owned examples sell for $900–$1,200. The market is stable; it’s not a limited edition, so don’t expect appreciation. Buy it to wear and enjoy.
Service Interval
Service every 5 years. Cost around $350 from an independent watchmaker. The SW200-1 is easy to service, and Squale’s own service center is also an option.
Pros and Cons
Pros: Perfect 39mm size, excellent legibility and lume, comfortable bracelet, sapphire crystal.
Cons: Not COSC, 38-hour power reserve, clasp lacks on-the-fly micro-adjust, aluminum bezel insert (not ceramic).
Final Verdict
The Squale Sub-39 is a fantastic everyday diver that punches above its weight in comfort and style. It’s not trying to be a luxury watch—it’s a tool watch that looks good and wears even better. If you want a 39mm diver with genuine heritage and a Swiss movement, this is one of the best values on the market.
