Studio Underd0g Champagne & Caviar: A GMT That Celebrates the Good Life
Studio Underd0g has built its reputation on irreverence. Since 2020, the British microbrand has delighted collectors with chronographs named after fruit and desserts, each featuring a Seagull ST1901 movement and a dial that refuses to take itself too seriously. The Watermelon, the Mint Choc Chip, the Goofy Panda — these are watches that smile back at you. But beneath the playful surfaces lies a serious commitment to mechanical watchmaking at an accessible price. With the new 03SERIES, Studio Underd0g takes its first step into GMT territory. The debut model, the Champagne & Caviar, is a watch that manages to be both a celebration and a tool. It pairs a shimmering champagne dial with a black 24-hour bezel and a Milanese mesh bracelet, all powered by a Seiko NH34 automatic movement. It's a travel watch that feels like a toast.
The name tells you most of what you need to know. Champagne & Caviar is a reference to luxury, but it's also a playful nod to the contrast that defines the watch: the light, effervescent champagne dial against the dark, beaded texture of the caviar-inspired bezel. It's a design that could easily have tipped into kitsch, but Studio Underd0g has executed it with restraint. The result is a watch that feels sophisticated without being stuffy — exactly the kind of piece a young collector might wear to a dinner party and then take on a weekend trip.
In this review, we'll examine the Champagne & Caviar in detail, from its movement architecture to its wrist presence, and consider whether it deserves a place in your collection. As always, we focus on what matters: how it's made, how it wears, and what it offers for the money.
The Brand Behind the Bubbles
Studio Underd0g was founded in 2020 by Richard Benc, a designer with a background in product development and a passion for horology. The brand's first watch, the Watermelon, was funded on Kickstarter and quickly sold out, establishing a template that has served Studio Underd0g well: take a reliable, affordable mechanical movement, wrap it in a well-proportioned stainless steel case, and apply a dial that is unlike anything else on the market. The watches are assembled in the UK, though the components are sourced globally — a pragmatic approach that keeps costs down without sacrificing quality.
The 03SERIES represents a significant evolution. While the 01SERIES chronographs use a manual-wind Seagull ST1901, and the 02SERIES field watches use a Sellita SW200-1, the 03SERIES adopts a Seiko NH34 automatic GMT. This is a deliberate choice: the NH34 is inexpensive, robust, and widely serviced, making it ideal for a travel watch that is meant to be worn and enjoyed. The Champagne & Caviar is the first model in this series, and it sets a high bar for those that follow.
Movement: The Seiko NH34
The Seiko NH34 is a familiar sight in affordable GMTs. It's an automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve, a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, and 24 jewels. It features a 24-hour hand that can be set independently, allowing you to track a second time zone — a useful complication for travelers. The movement also includes a date function, displayed at 3 o'clock. It is not COSC-certified, nor is it in-house, but that's beside the point. The NH34 is a workhorse: reliable, easy to service, and cheap to replace if something goes wrong.
In terms of finishing, the NH34 is industrial. You won't find Geneva stripes or blued screws, but the movement is visible through a sapphire caseback, and it's honest about what it is. The rotor is decorated with a simple engraving, and the overall presentation is clean if not particularly inspiring. For a watch at this price point, that's entirely acceptable. The focus here is on function and durability, not haute horlogerie. And in that regard, the NH34 delivers: it's a movement you can trust to keep running without fuss.
One note: the NH34's accuracy can vary. Seiko rates it to within -20/+40 seconds per day, but many examples run closer to ±15 seconds. If you're particular about timekeeping, you can have a watchmaker regulate it, but for most wearers, the standard performance is perfectly adequate for daily use.
Case, Dial, and Bracelet
The Champagne & Caviar is housed in a stainless steel case with a compact profile. Studio Underd0g has chosen proportions that favor wearability: the case is neither oversized nor overly thick, making it suitable for a wide range of wrists. The lugs are gently curved, and the case sides have a subtle brushed finish that contrasts with the polished bezel. The sapphire crystal is slightly domed, adding a vintage touch while providing excellent scratch resistance.
The dial is the star of the show. It's a warm champagne color with a fine sunburst finish that catches the light in a way that feels celebratory. The applied indices are faceted and polished, with Super-LumiNova filling that glows a soft green in low light. The hands are likewise polished and lumed, with a slim seconds hand and a distinctive 24-hour hand tipped with a red arrow. The date window at 3 o'clock is framed by a subtle bevel, and the text is minimal: the Studio Underd0g logo at 12 and 'GMT' above the date. The overall effect is clean and legible, with just enough detail to reward closer inspection.
The black bezel is where the 'caviar' reference comes in. It has a beaded, textured finish that mimics the appearance of caviar, and it's marked with a 24-hour scale. The bezel is fixed, which keeps the case slim and the design symmetrical. The contrast between the champagne dial and the black bezel is striking — it's a combination that feels both classic and contemporary.
The watch comes on a Milanese mesh bracelet, which is a smart choice. The mesh is finely woven, with a smooth surface that is comfortable against the skin. It tapers slightly toward the clasp, which is a deployant style with a signed buckle. The bracelet is adjustable without tools, thanks to a sliding mechanism, and it integrates with the case in a way that feels cohesive. Alternatively, the watch can be ordered on a leather strap, but the mesh is the more distinctive option and better suited to the watch's character.
On the Wrist
Wearing the Champagne & Caviar is a pleasure. The case is compact enough to slip under a cuff, yet it has enough presence to be noticed. The mesh bracelet conforms to the wrist and distributes weight evenly, so the watch feels balanced and comfortable throughout the day. The deployant clasp is secure and easy to operate, and the sliding adjustment allows for fine-tuning the fit — a welcome feature for those of us whose wrists swell in the heat.
The dial's legibility is excellent. The champagne background provides good contrast for the black printed text and the polished hands, and the lume is adequate for evening wear. The 24-hour hand is easy to distinguish from the hour and minute hands, thanks to its red tip and slimmer profile. The date window is small but readable. Overall, the watch is a capable daily companion that doesn't demand attention but rewards it when given.
Accuracy and Daily Use
As mentioned, the NH34 is not a precision instrument. Expect daily variance within the -20/+40 second range, with many examples performing better. In practice, I found the watch to keep time within about +12 seconds per day over a week of wear — typical for an unregulated NH34. If you need greater accuracy, a local watchmaker can regulate it for a modest fee. The 41-hour power reserve means you can take it off for a weekend and still find it running on Monday morning, though it's best to wind it regularly if you want consistent timekeeping.
Daily use is straightforward. The watch is not a dive watch, so it's best to avoid swimming or prolonged water exposure. The sapphire crystal resists scratches, and the stainless steel case can handle the bumps and knocks of everyday life. The Milanese bracelet is durable, though it may show fine scratches over time — a quick polish with a Scotch-Brite pad can restore its luster. The watch is also easy to service: any competent watchmaker can handle an NH34, and replacement movements are inexpensive if needed.
Versatility and Occasions
The Champagne & Caviar is a versatile piece. Its dressy champagne dial and mesh bracelet make it suitable for formal occasions, while the GMT function and sturdy case give it a sporty edge. It's a natural travel companion: the 24-hour hand lets you keep an eye on home time while you're abroad, and the date function is handy for keeping track of days. It's also a great daily wear — the compact case and comfortable bracelet make it easy to forget you're wearing it, in the best way.
That said, it's not a rugged tool watch. The fixed bezel and modest water resistance mean it's not intended for diving or rough outdoor activities. Think of it as a smart-casual watch: perfect for the office, dinner, or a weekend city break, but not for the beach or the trail.
Competition and Value
At around $675, the Champagne & Caviar competes with several established GMTs. The Seiko 5 Sports GMT (SSK series) is the obvious alternative: it offers a similar movement (the NH34) and a comparable price, but its design is more generic. The Christopher Ward C63 GMT is a step up in finishing and movement (Sellita SW330), but it costs significantly more. The Baltic Aquascaphe GMT has a vintage aesthetic that may appeal to some, while the Traska Venturer GMT offers a more tool-focused approach. None of these, however, match the Studio Underd0g's distinctive dial and playful character.
In terms of value, the Champagne & Caviar is competitive. You're paying for design and character as much as for specifications. The NH34 movement is modest, but it's reliable and cheap to maintain. The Milanese bracelet adds a touch of refinement that is rare at this price. If you're looking for a GMT that stands out from the crowd without breaking the bank, this is a strong option.
Investment and Ownership
As with most microbrand watches, the Champagne & Caviar is not an investment. Its value will likely remain stable or depreciate slightly on the secondary market. Limited production runs may hold value better than mass-produced pieces, but don't expect appreciation. Buy it to wear and enjoy. Service costs are low, and the movement's ubiquity means you won't have trouble finding parts or a watchmaker. This is a watch that encourages ownership rather than speculation.
Final Verdict
The Studio Underd0g Champagne & Caviar is a delightful watch. It takes a reliable, affordable GMT movement and wraps it in a design that is both elegant and fun. The champagne dial is a joy to look at, the caviar-textured bezel adds depth, and the Milanese bracelet is comfortable and well-made. It's not a precision timepiece, nor is it a rugged tool, but it's a watch that brings a smile to your face every time you check the time. For young collectors looking to add a GMT to their collection without spending a fortune, it's an excellent choice. It's a toast to accessible horology — and it's worth raising a glass.
