Introduction: A New Chapter in Playful Horology
The microbrand scene has never been more vibrant, but few brands have captured the imagination quite like Studio Underd0g. Founded in 2021 by Richard Benc, the British outfit has made a name for itself by pairing serious mechanical chronograph movements with dials that are unapologetically fun. The Watermelon, with its green and pink dial, and the Pizza Party, with its pepperoni-inspired layout, are proof that horology does not have to be stuffy. Now, with the Chan3ad (ref. 02KIB-EA), Studio Underd0g continues its exploration of playful design while staying true to its horological roots.
The Chan3ad is a watch that invites a second look. At first glance, it is a well-proportioned chronograph with a clean layout and a handsome leather strap. But then you notice the dial: a distinctive pattern that sets it apart from the brand's other models. It is a conversation starter, but not in a loud or obnoxious way. Instead, it is a subtle wink to those in the know.
In this review, we will take a closer look at the Chan3ad, examining its movement, case, dial, and wearing experience. We will also consider its value proposition and how it compares to other watches in its price range. Whether you are a seasoned collector or a newcomer to mechanical watches, the Chan3ad offers a compelling package.
Brand History: The Underdog Story
Studio Underd0g was founded in 2021 by Richard Benc in the United Kingdom. The brand's name is a playful nod to the idea of a studio and the underdog spirit, hence the zero in place of the letter o. Benc's goal was to create mechanical chronographs that were accessible, fun, and well-made. The brand's first release, the Watermelon, was an instant hit, selling out quickly and establishing Studio Underd0g as a force to be reckoned with in the microbrand space. Since then, the brand has released several models, each with its own personality, but all sharing a common thread: a focus on design and value.
The Chan3ad is the latest addition to the lineup. It continues the brand's tradition of using the Seagull ST1901 movement, a hand-wound chronograph caliber that offers reliable performance at an affordable price. By keeping costs down through direct-to-consumer sales and smart component choices, Studio Underd0g is able to offer a mechanical chronograph at a price point that is accessible to a new generation of collectors.
The brand's approach is refreshingly transparent. There is no pretense of in-house manufacturing or haute horlogerie finishing. Instead, Studio Underd0g focuses on what matters at this price point: a solid movement, a well-designed case, and a dial that brings a smile to your face. The Chan3ad embodies this philosophy perfectly.
Movement: The Seagull ST1901
At the heart of the Chan3ad is the Seagull ST1901, a manual-wind chronograph movement with a column wheel and horizontal clutch. This is the same movement that powers many affordable chronographs, including the legendary Seagull 1963. The ST1901 is a proven design, known for its robustness and ease of service. It operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.
While the ST1901 is not a highly finished movement, it is honest and functional. The visible components, through the sapphire caseback if the Chan3ad has one, or simply when the watch is opened, show industrial finishing, but the architecture is classic. The column wheel and horizontal clutch are visible, and the movement is decorated with basic perlage and blued screws. It is not going to win any awards for haute horlogerie, but it is a satisfying movement to wind and operate.
The chronograph function is activated via two pushers. The start/stop pusher has a crisp, positive action, and the reset pusher returns the chronograph seconds hand to zero with a satisfying snap. The crown is easy to grip and winds smoothly. Overall, the ST1901 is a reliable workhorse that suits the Chan3ad's playful character.
One of the advantages of a manual-wind movement is the daily ritual of winding. It connects you to the watch in a way that an automatic movement cannot. The ST1901 winds with a pleasant resistance, and the power reserve is sufficient for a day's wear. If you forget to wind it, the watch will stop, but that is part of the charm.
Case, Dial, and Crystal
The Chan3ad features a stainless steel case with a compact profile that sits comfortably on the wrist. The case is well-finished, with a mix of brushed and polished surfaces that catch the light nicely. The lugs are curved, which helps the watch hug the wrist, and the caseback, whether solid or sapphire, is securely fastened.
The dial is the star of the show. The Chan3ad features a blue dial with a distinctive pattern that is unlike anything else in the brand's lineup. The pattern is subtle but noticeable, adding depth and texture to the dial. The applied indices are well-made, and the hands are faceted and polished, catching the light as you move your wrist. The chronograph sub-dials are clearly marked, and the tachymeter scale, if present, is a useful addition for timing speed.
The sapphire crystal is a welcome feature at this price point, offering excellent scratch resistance and clarity. The anti-reflective coating, if present, helps reduce glare, making the dial easy to read in bright light. The watch has no lume, which is a conscious choice to preserve the purity of the dial design. It is a trade-off that many collectors will accept, as the Chan3ad is not intended to be a dive watch.
The case finishing is particularly impressive for the price. The brushed sides are even, and the polished bezel adds a touch of elegance. The transition between brushed and polished surfaces is crisp, showing that care has been taken in assembly. It is not on the level of a Grand Seiko, but it is certainly better than many watches at twice the price.
Wearing Experience
On the wrist, the Chan3ad is a pleasure to wear. The compact case sits comfortably, and the curved lugs ensure a snug fit. The leather strap is supple and breaks in quickly, though it is not the most luxurious strap on the market. It does the job, and the pin buckle is simple and secure. The watch feels balanced, with a reassuring weight that reminds you it is a mechanical object. The chronograph pushers are easy to reach, and the crown does not dig into the wrist.
The dial is highly legible despite its playful pattern. The applied indices and hands are well-finished, and the contrast between the dial and the hands is good. The chronograph sub-dials are clearly marked, and the tachymeter scale, if present, is useful for calculating speed. Overall, the Chan3ad is a watch that you can wear all day without discomfort.
One minor criticism is the strap. While it is comfortable, it feels a bit generic. Upgrading to a high-quality aftermarket strap, such as a Horween leather or a suede option, would elevate the watch further. The pin buckle is functional but not particularly special. A deployant clasp would be a nice upgrade, but it would also add to the cost.
Accuracy and Reliability
The Seagull ST1901 is not a chronometer, and Studio Underd0g does not claim COSC certification. In real-world use, expect accuracy in the range of ±15 to ±20 seconds per day. That is acceptable for a mechanical chronograph at this price point. If you are particular about accuracy, a watchmaker can regulate the movement to tighter tolerances. It is worth noting that the chronograph function, when used frequently, can affect accuracy slightly, but the ST1901 is robust enough to handle regular use.
Reliability is generally good, provided the watch is serviced regularly. The ST1901 has been around for decades and is well-understood by watchmakers. Parts are readily available, and service costs are reasonable. The movement is not as refined as a Swiss caliber, but it offers a compelling blend of performance and value.
It is important to remember that mechanical watches require some care. Avoid exposing the watch to strong magnetic fields, extreme temperatures, or shocks. With proper care, the Chan3ad should provide years of reliable service.
Occasions and Versatility
The Chan3ad is versatile enough for daily wear, sport, and even dress occasions. Its playful dial makes it a great conversation piece at casual gatherings, while its mechanical nature appeals to watch enthusiasts. It is not a formal watch in the traditional sense, but it can be worn with a suit if you are confident in your style. It is also a great travel companion, though the lack of a GMT function means you will need to adjust the time manually.
Wrist presence is moderate. The Chan3ad is not a large watch, and it does not scream for attention. However, the distinctive dial ensures that it catches the eye of those who appreciate detail. It is a watch that rewards a closer look, and it is likely to start conversations with fellow watch lovers.
For those who prefer a more understated look, the Chan3ad might be too playful. But for those who appreciate a touch of whimsy, it is perfect. It is a watch that reflects the wearer's personality: confident, knowledgeable, and not afraid to have fun.
Value and Investment
The Chan3ad is priced at approximately $750, which is fair for a mechanical chronograph with a unique design. Pre-owned prices range from $600 to $900, depending on condition and availability. The trend is stable, as Studio Underd0g watches tend to hold their value due to limited production and brand cachet. However, this is not a watch to buy as an investment; it is a watch to wear and enjoy. Auction history is limited, as the brand is relatively new.
When compared to other watches in the same price range, the Chan3ad stands out for its distinctive design and mechanical movement. It offers a level of horological credibility that quartz watches cannot match, and its playful character sets it apart from more conservative options. If you are looking for a first mechanical chronograph, the Chan3ad is a strong contender.
It is also worth considering the cost of ownership. The ST1901 is inexpensive to service, and parts are readily available. This makes the Chan3ad a low-risk entry into mechanical watch ownership. It is not a watch that will bankrupt you with maintenance costs.
Service and Maintenance
The ST1901 is a robust movement, and service intervals can vary depending on usage. We recommend a service every 5-7 years, though Studio Underd0g does not specify an interval. Service costs are typically around $200-$300, and any competent watchmaker familiar with the ST1901 can handle it. Authorized service is not required, but Studio Underd0g offers direct support.
The watch is not water-resistant enough for swimming, so it is best to avoid submerging it. Keep it away from magnetic fields and extreme temperatures, and it should provide years of reliable service. The leather strap should be kept dry to prolong its life; if it gets wet, allow it to dry naturally away from direct heat.
Final Verdict
The Studio Underd0g Chan3ad is a delightful anomaly in the watch world: a mechanical chronograph that does not take itself too seriously, yet delivers genuine horological satisfaction. It is a watch for those who appreciate craft but also enjoy a bit of whimsy on the wrist. At its price point, it offers excellent value, and its distinctive design ensures it will stand out in any collection.
If you are looking for a fun, well-made chronograph that will not break the bank, the Chan3ad is a compelling choice. It is not without its compromises, such as no lume, modest water resistance, and a strap that could be nicer, but these are minor quibbles in the grand scheme. The Chan3ad is a watch that brings joy, and that is worth a lot.
In a market filled with homages and safe designs, Studio Underd0g dares to be different. The Chan3ad is a testament to the brand's philosophy: serious watchmaking does not have to be serious all the time. It is a watch that will make you smile every time you look at it, and that is perhaps the highest compliment one can pay a watch.
