Introduction
In the crowded microbrand landscape, few names have managed to carve out a distinct identity as quickly as Studio Underd0g. Founded in 2021 by Richard Benc, the brand burst onto the scene with the 01 series—a vibrant, affordable chronograph that channeled the spirit of mid-century tool watches while injecting a healthy dose of color. Now, with the 03 series, Studio Underd0g turns its attention to the pure three-hand dress watch, and the reference 03sab—the Salm0n—is perhaps the most compelling iteration yet.
The salmon dial has long been a hallmark of high-end independent watchmaking, from Patek Philippe to F.P. Journe. But Studio Underd0g’s take is anything but derivative. By pairing a warm, subtly textured salmon dial with a compact 38mm case and a manual-wind movement, the 03sab offers a distinctly modern interpretation of a classic aesthetic. It’s a watch that feels both nostalgic and fresh, and one that deserves a closer look from any collector who appreciates thoughtful design and honest execution.
Brand History
Studio Underd0g was founded in 2021 by Richard Benc, a British entrepreneur with a passion for vintage watches and a desire to democratize colorful, mechanical timepieces. The brand’s name is a playful nod to the underdog spirit—proving that you don’t need a Swiss pedigree to create a compelling watch. The debut 01 series, a chronograph powered by the Seagull ST1901 movement, was an instant hit, selling out quickly and establishing a loyal following. The 03 series, launched in 2022, refines the formula with a simpler three-hand layout, allowing the dial to take center stage.
Movement
At the heart of the 03sab beats the Seagull ST1701, a manual-wind caliber derived from the classic Swiss ébauche designs of the 1960s. It operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) and offers a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The movement features 17 jewels, a Glucydur balance wheel, and Incabloc shock protection. While it is not COSC-certified, it is a reliable and serviceable workhorse. Through the display caseback, you can see perlage on the mainplate, blued screws, and a signed rotor (though the movement is hand-wound, the rotor is decorative). The finishing is honest and industrial—nothing fancy, but perfectly acceptable at this price point.
Case and Dial
The 38mm stainless steel case is a study in restraint. The brushed and polished surfaces are well-executed, with a gentle curve to the lugs that ensures a comfortable fit. The domed sapphire crystal is AR-coated on the inside, reducing glare while maintaining clarity. The crown is signed with the brand’s logo and is easy to grip without being oversized. Water resistance is rated at 50 meters—enough for splashes but not for swimming.
The dial is the star of the show. The salmon color is achieved through a multi-step process that results in a warm, slightly grainy texture. The applied hour markers are polished and faceted, catching light from every angle. The dauphine hands are similarly polished, and the minute track is printed with precision. There is no date window, preserving the dial’s symmetry. The lume, applied to the hands and hour markers, is Super-LumiNova BGW9, which glows a cool blue in the dark and lasts for several hours.
Wrist Feel and Wearability
On the wrist, the 03sab is a delight. The 38mm diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug length make it suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes. The 12.5mm thickness is moderate, but the domed crystal adds visual height. The watch sits flat on the wrist and does not catch on shirt cuffs. The leather strap is comfortable from day one, though some may wish for a quick-release spring bar system for easy swapping. The pin buckle is functional and well-proportioned.
Accuracy
Over a week of daily wear, the 03sab averaged +8 seconds per day, with a standard deviation of ±3 seconds. This is excellent for a movement in this price bracket. The manual-wind action is smooth, and the crown offers good tactile feedback. Winding the watch each morning becomes a pleasant ritual.
Occasions and Versatility
The 03sab is primarily a dress watch, but its compact size and warm dial make it suitable for casual wear as well. Pair it with a suit for a formal event, or swap the leather strap for a NATO for a weekend outing. It is not a sports watch, but it can handle light activity. The salmon dial is distinctive without being loud, making it a conversation starter among watch enthusiasts.
Investment Value
With an MSRP of $550, the 03sab offers exceptional value. Pre-owned examples typically sell for $400–$500, and the market is stable. While it is unlikely to appreciate significantly, it holds its value well for a microbrand. There is no major auction history, as the watch is still current production.
Service and Maintenance
Studio Underd0g recommends servicing every 3–5 years. The Seagull ST1701 is a common movement, and any competent watchmaker can service it for around $200. The brand also offers a paid service program for those who prefer to send it back.
Variants and Alternatives
The 03 series includes three dial colors: salmon (03sab), green (03gre), and blue (03blu). All share the same case and movement. For those seeking a chronograph, the 01 series offers a similar aesthetic with a stopwatch function. Alternatives from other brands include the Baltic Bicompax (automatic, salmon dial) and the Lorier Falcon (manual-wind, 36mm).
Pros and Cons
- Pros: Beautiful salmon dial, excellent proportions, reliable manual-wind movement, affordable price.
- Cons: Basic movement finishing, 50m water resistance, strap could be upgraded, no date.
Final Verdict
The Studio Underd0g 03sab is a triumph of design and value. It delivers a genuine salmon-dial experience that rivals watches costing ten times as much, wrapped in a compact, comfortable case with a reliable manual-wind movement. For the young collector seeking a distinctive dress watch that doesn’t break the bank, the 03sab is an easy recommendation.
