Introduction
Studio Underd0g has carved a niche in the microbrand landscape by embracing color and whimsy without sacrificing mechanical integrity. The Series 02 chronograph is the brand’s second act, following the wildly popular 01 Series three-handers. It retains the signature playful dials—inspired by everything from watermelon slices to popsicles—while introducing a complication that demands both visual and technical harmony.
At first glance, the Series 02 is an unabashed conversation starter. The dials are loud, unapologetic, and meticulously executed. But beneath the vibrant lacquer and bold indices lies a movement that has earned its stripes in the world of affordable chronographs: the Seiko NE86. This automatic column-wheel chronograph caliber is a proven workhorse, and Studio Underd0g has paired it with a case and finishing that belie the watch’s accessible price point.
This review examines the Series 02 from every angle—movement architecture, case construction, wrist presence, and real-world wearability. For the young collector seeking a chronograph that stands out without compromising on horological fundamentals, the Series 02 deserves a close look.
Manufacture History
Studio Underd0g was founded in 2021 by Richard Benc, a British entrepreneur with a background in design and a passion for watches. The brand’s name is a playful nod to the underdog spirit of microbrands, and its first release—the 01 Series—immediately captured attention with dials that looked like slices of watermelon, strawberries, and other colorful treats. The 01 Series used Seiko NH35 movements and sold out quickly, establishing a loyal following.
The Series 02 chronograph launched in 2022, marking the brand’s first foray into complications. It retained the same design philosophy—bold colors, high contrast, and a sense of fun—but upgraded the movement to the Seiko NE86 automatic chronograph caliber. The Series 02 is produced in limited batches, with each colorway released in small runs to maintain exclusivity.
Movement
At the heart of the Series 02 is the Seiko NE86, an automatic chronograph movement that has been used in several Seiko Prospex and Presage models. It features a column wheel and vertical clutch, which provide a smooth, precise actuation of the chronograph pushers—a tactile experience that many enthusiasts prize over the cam-operated alternatives found in cheaper movements.
The NE86 beats at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), offers a 45-hour power reserve, and includes 27 jewels. It is not COSC-certified, but its accuracy is typical of Seiko’s higher-end calibers: expect -20 to +40 seconds per day, with many examples performing better. The movement is visible through a sapphire display caseback, where you can see the perlage on the mainplate, blued screws, and the oscillating weight with Studio Underd0g’s logo. While the finishing is industrial rather than haute horlogerie, it is clean and honest for the price.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 40mm
- Case Thickness: 14.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 48mm
- Case Material: 316L stainless steel, brushed and polished
- Crystal: Domed sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Water Resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
- Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and hour markers
- Strap: Italian leather with quick-release spring bars
- Clasp: Signed pin buckle
Wrist Feel
On the wrist, the Series 02 wears larger than its 40mm diameter suggests, thanks to the broad bezel and prominent pushers. The 14.5mm thickness is noticeable but not cumbersome, and the stepped case design helps break up the visual mass. The leather strap is supple out of the box, and the pin buckle is appropriately understated. Balance is excellent—the watch sits flat on the wrist without tipping.
The crown and pushers are easy to operate, with the chronograph start/stop action feeling crisp and positive. The domed sapphire crystal adds a vintage touch and reduces glare. Overall, the Series 02 feels like a well-proportioned tool watch that happens to be dressed in a party suit.
Accuracy
The Seiko NE86 typically runs within -20 to +40 seconds per day, but in practice, many examples perform closer to -10 to +15 seconds. The movement is not COSC-certified, but for a chronograph at this price point, the accuracy is more than adequate for daily wear. Over a week of testing, my sample averaged +12 seconds per day, consistent and predictable.
Occasions
The Series 02 is best suited for casual and sporty settings. Its vibrant dials make it a natural choice for weekends, vacations, or any occasion where you want to inject a bit of personality. The 100m water resistance and sapphire crystal mean it can handle swimming and light adventure, though the leather strap is not ideal for prolonged water exposure. It is not a dress watch, but it can work with smart-casual attire if you embrace the color.
Wrist Presence
4/5 – The dial is the star: vibrant colors and high contrast make it impossible to ignore. It’s a watch that invites questions and compliments, yet the case and crystal keep it from feeling gaudy.
Reference Variants
Two colorways are available at launch:
- S02-001 “Watermelon”: Green sunburst dial with red subdials and a white date wheel. Paired with a green leather strap.
- S02-002 “Popsicle”: Blue dial with bright yellow subdials. Paired with a blue leather strap.
Both feature the same case, movement, and specifications. Studio Underd0g has hinted at future limited editions with additional color schemes.
Family References
The Series 02 is the chronograph sibling of the Studio Underd0g 01 Series, which uses a Seiko NH35 automatic movement and offers a wide range of dial colors (Watermelon, Strawberry, Blueberry, etc.). The 01 Series is smaller (36mm) and thinner, making it a more versatile everyday option.
Other Notable Models by Studio Underd0g
Beyond the 01 and 02 Series, Studio Underd0g has released limited-edition collaborations and special projects, such as the “Pink Lemonade” and “Matcha” dials. The brand remains focused on small-batch production, with each release selling out quickly.
Similar Watches
- Seiko Speedtimer SSC813: A solar quartz chronograph with a panda dial, similar in spirit but battery-powered.
- Dan Henry 1964 Gran Turismo: A mecha-quartz chronograph with vintage racing aesthetics, available in many colorways.
- Baltic Bicompax 001: A hand-wound mechanical chronograph with a classic two-register layout, though more restrained in color.
Homages
While the Series 02 is itself an original design, the general chronograph layout is reminiscent of the Pagani Design PD-1701 (a quartz homage to the Omega Speedmaster), but the Studio Underd0g’s dial execution and mechanical movement set it apart.
Investment Value
MSRP: $595
Current Retail: $595 (direct from Studio Underd0g)
Pre-Owned Range: $450–$550
Trend: Stable
Hold Recommendation: The Series 02 is not a financial investment but a collector’s piece. Buy it for the joy of wearing it; resale values are likely to remain flat.
Auction History: No major auction history.
Service Interval
Studio Underd0g recommends servicing the movement every 5 years. The Seiko NE86 is a widely used caliber, so any competent watchmaker can perform the service. Expect to pay around $250 for a basic overhaul. The brand does not require authorized service centers, but they offer a two-year warranty on new watches.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Unique, vibrant dial designs that stand out in any collection
- Reliable Seiko NE86 automatic chronograph movement with column wheel and vertical clutch
- Comfortable 40mm case with excellent proportions
- Sapphire crystal and 100m water resistance for daily durability
Cons
- 14.5mm thickness may be too tall for some shirt cuffs
- Movement accuracy is not COSC-certified; typical Seiko tolerances apply
- Limited color options (only two at launch)
- Leather strap is decent but could be upgraded for the price
Final Verdict
The Studio Underd0g Series 02 is a triumph of personality and horological value. It delivers a genuine mechanical chronograph with a column-wheel movement, a case that wears well, and dials that bring a smile to your face. For the young collector who wants something different without sacrificing quality, this is an easy recommendation.
