Introduction
In a watch world dominated by monochrome dials and safe choices, Studio Underd0g burst onto the scene with a slice of irreverence. The Watermel0n, launched in 2021, is the brand’s most iconic creation: a dial that looks exactly like a cut watermelon, complete with seeds, rind, and a vibrant red gradient. It’s a watch that refuses to be serious — and that’s exactly why it works.
This isn’t just a novelty piece. Underneath the playful exterior lies a solid automatic movement, a well-proportioned case, and a level of finishing that punches above its price point. The Watermel0n has become a cult favorite among young collectors who value personality over pedigree. It’s the watch you wear to a summer rooftop party, not a boardroom. And that’s precisely its charm.
In this review, we’ll dissect the Watermel0n from every angle — movement, build, wrist feel, and whether it’s worth the hype. Spoiler: it’s a lot of fun, but is it a keeper? Let’s find out.
Manufacture History
Studio Underd0g was founded in 2020 by Richard Benc, a British watch enthusiast who wanted to inject color and humor into the often-staid watch industry. The brand’s first release, the Watermel0n, became an instant hit on social media, selling out quickly and establishing a loyal following. Known for limited runs and bold dials, Studio Underd0g operates as a microbrand with a direct-to-consumer model, keeping prices accessible while maintaining quality.
Movement
Inside the Watermel0n beats the Seiko NH35, a workhorse automatic movement known for its reliability and ease of service. It’s a 24-jewel movement beating at 21,600 vph with a 41-hour power reserve. While not COSC-certified, the NH35 is a proven caliber used in countless microbrands and modding projects. Studio Underd0g adds a custom rotor with their logo, but otherwise the movement is left undecorated — a fair trade-off for the price.
Accuracy out of the box is typically within -20/+40 seconds per day, though many examples run tighter. Our test unit averaged +12 s/d, which is perfectly acceptable for a watch at this price point. If you need better precision, a simple regulation by a watchmaker can bring it to within a few seconds.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 38.5mm
- Case Thickness: 12.5mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 46mm
- Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
- Crystal: Domed Sapphire with AR coating
- Water Resistance: 50m (splash resistant, not for swimming)
- Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and hour markers
- Strap: Brown leather with pin buckle (also available on NATO)
Wrist Feel
The Watermel0n wears surprisingly well for a 38.5mm case. The short 46mm lug-to-lug means it sits flat on most wrists, and the 12.5mm thickness is reasonable for an automatic with a domed crystal. The leather strap is soft out of the box, though some may swap it for a NATO or rubber for a sportier look.
Weight is light — around 70g on strap — making it an easy daily wear. The domed sapphire crystal adds a vintage touch and helps the dial pop. Overall, it’s comfortable for all-day wear, even for smaller wrists. The only minor gripe is the lack of a quick-release spring bar, but that’s a nitpick at this price point.
Accuracy
In real-world use, the Seiko NH35 typically runs between -10 to +20 seconds per day. Our test sample averaged +12 s/d over a week of mixed wear. It’s not COSC territory, but for a $400 watch, it’s perfectly acceptable. If you’re a stickler for precision, you can regulate it, but most owners won’t mind the casual drift.
Occasions
The Watermel0n is a versatile piece despite its playful dial. It works as a daily wear, a summer vacation companion, or even a quirky dress watch when paired with a leather strap. It’s not suitable for formal black-tie events, but it’s perfect for brunch, beach days, or casual office environments where you want to stand out.
Wrist Presence
4/5 — The dial is an instant conversation starter. The watermelon motif is executed with such detail that it commands attention without being gaudy. On a NATO strap, it’s a summer statement; on leather, it can even pass as a quirky dress watch.
Reference Variants
Two main references exist: the SUW001 with a date window at 3 o’clock on a brown leather strap, and the SUW002 (limited edition) with a no-date dial and a green NATO strap. Both feature the same watermelon dial but cater to different preferences.
Family References
The Watermel0n is part of Studio Underd0g’s 01 Series, which also includes the Go0fy (golf-themed) and Desert Sky (blue gradient). The 02 Series features more experimental dials like the Pink Lem0nade.
Other Notable Models by Studio Underd0g
- Studio Underd0g Go0fy
- Studio Underd0g Desert Sky
- Studio Underd0g Pink Lem0nade
Similar Watches
- Seiko 5 Sports SRPD — Similar price, automatic, and playful dial options.
- Timex Q Reissue — Quartz alternative with colorful dials and retro vibe.
- Swatch Sistem51 — Automatic with bold colors and a fun aesthetic.
Homages
Pagani Design PD-1661 ($80) — A cheap homage to the Watermel0n concept, but lacks the charm and finishing of the original.
Investment Value
MSRP is $425, and pre-owned prices range from $350 to $500. The trend is stable — limited editions may hold value, but this is not an investment piece. Buy it to wear and enjoy. No major auction history.
Service Interval
Every 5 years, approximate cost $150. The Seiko NH35 is widely available and any competent watchmaker can service it. Parts are cheap and plentiful.
Price Range
$350-$500. Verdict: Excellent value for a unique, well-made automatic with a cult following.
Pros and Cons
Pros: Unique, eye-catching dial; solid automatic movement; comfortable 38.5mm case; great value for money.
Cons: Accuracy not COSC-level; leather strap could be better; 50m water resistance limits swimming; limited availability.
Final Verdict
The Studio Underd0g Watermel0n is a delightful slice of horological fun. It’s not trying to be a serious tool watch or an investment piece — it’s a celebration of color and personality. If you want a conversation starter that’s actually well-made, this is it. Just don’t expect it to keep perfect time or survive a deep dive.
