Introduction
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net is a striking addition to the brand's storied Diver collection, blending cutting-edge materials with a design language that pays homage to the ocean's intricate ecosystems. Reference 1183-170-8A/3A, with its distinctive net-patterned dial and robust construction, is a testament to Ulysse Nardin's commitment to marine exploration and horological innovation.
For the sophisticated young collector, the Diver Net offers more than just a tool watch; it is a statement of individuality. The dial's woven texture, reminiscent of fishing nets, is a subtle nod to the brand's maritime heritage, while the case and movement showcase modern manufacturing prowess. This is a dive watch that does not shout—it whispers with authority.
In this review, we dissect every element of the Diver Net, from its manufacture movement to its on-wrist presence, to determine if it earns a place in your collection.
Manufacture History
Founded in 1846 in Le Locle, Switzerland, Ulysse Nardin has a distinguished history of producing marine chronometers, earning numerous awards for precision at sea. The brand's expertise in navigation instruments naturally evolved into the Diver collection, which continues to honor this legacy with robust, reliable timepieces. The Diver Net is a modern interpretation, incorporating contemporary materials and movements while staying true to the brand's maritime roots.
Movement
At the heart of the Diver Net beats the in-house caliber UN-118. This automatic movement is a workhorse, featuring a silicon escapement and a DIAMonSil anchor—a combination of diamond and silicon that reduces friction and eliminates the need for lubrication. The result is enhanced anti-magnetic properties and a longer service interval. The movement operates at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and offers a 60-hour power reserve, ensuring reliability even if the watch is not worn for a couple of days. The UN-118 is COSC-certified, guaranteeing accuracy within -4/+6 seconds per day. Visually, the movement is beautifully finished with Geneva stripes, perlage, and a skeletonized rotor that showcases the brand's attention to detail. The silicon components are visible through the sapphire caseback, a nod to modern horology.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 44mm
- Case Thickness: 13.2mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 50mm
- Case Material: Stainless steel
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
- Water Resistance: 300m
- Lume: Super-LumiNova on hands and indices
- Bracelet/Strap: Integrated rubber strap with folding clasp
The 44mm case is substantial but well-proportioned, with a unidirectional rotating bezel that features a ceramic insert for scratch resistance. The crown is screw-down and signed with the brand's anchor logo. The rubber strap is integrated into the case, providing a seamless transition and excellent ergonomics.
Wrist Feel
On the wrist, the Diver Net wears larger than its 44mm diameter suggests, but the curved lugs and integrated strap ensure a comfortable fit for most wrist sizes. The weight is noticeable but not cumbersome, and the balance is excellent. The rubber strap is soft and flexible, conforming to the wrist without pinching. The clasp is a folding design with a safety release, and it includes a divers' extension for use over a wetsuit. The bezel action is crisp, with 120 clicks and a satisfying tactile feedback. Whether worn for a day of diving or a casual evening out, the Diver Net remains comfortable and unobtrusive.
Accuracy
In our testing, the UN-118 movement performed admirably, averaging +3 seconds per day over a week of varied wear. The silicon escapement ensures consistent rate stability across different positions, and the power reserve held true to its 60-hour rating. The COSC certification is not just a marketing claim; the watch delivers on its promise of precision. For daily wear, you can expect to set the watch only occasionally, and it will maintain excellent timekeeping.
Occasions
The Diver Net is a versatile timepiece that transitions seamlessly from the boardroom to the beach. Its sporty yet refined aesthetic makes it suitable for daily wear, while its 300m water resistance and robust construction make it a reliable companion for aquatic adventures. It is not a dress watch, but it can elevate a casual outfit. For travel, the date complication and robust build are practical, and the rubber strap ensures comfort during long flights.
Wrist Presence
With a 44mm case and a distinctive net-patterned dial, the Diver Net commands attention. The dial's texture plays with light, creating a dynamic effect that changes with the angle. The lume is bright and long-lasting, ensuring legibility in low light. This is a watch that will be noticed, but it does not scream for attention; it exudes quiet confidence. On a scale of 5, I give it a 4—it is a statement piece, but not overly flashy.
Reference Variants
The reference 1183-170-8A/3A is the standard black-dial version with a black rubber strap. There is also a blue-dial variant (1183-170-8B/3A) that offers a different aesthetic. Both share the same case and movement, but the blue dial adds a pop of color for those who prefer a more vibrant look. The net pattern is consistent across variants, maintaining the collection's identity.
Family References
The Diver Net belongs to the larger Diver family, which includes the Diver 42, Diver 44, Diver Chronograph, and special editions like the Diver Great White. These models share the same design language and robust construction, but differ in size, complications, and materials. The Diver Net stands out with its unique dial texture, making it a distinctive choice within the family.
Other Notable Models by Ulysse Nardin
Beyond the Diver collection, Ulysse Nardin is known for the Marine Torpilleur, a classic dress watch with a nautical heritage; the Freak X, an avant-garde piece with a flying carousel; and the Blast, a skeletonized tourbillon. These models showcase the brand's range, from traditional to futuristic, and are worth exploring for collectors.
Similar Watches
In the luxury dive watch segment, the Diver Net competes with the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, which offers a ceramic bezel and co-axial movement; the Rolex Submariner Date, the benchmark for classic dive watches; and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which shares a similar marine heritage. Each has its own strengths, but the Diver Net's unique dial and in-house movement set it apart.
Homages
For those on a budget, there are homage watches that mimic the Diver Net's design cues. The Steeldive SD1970 offers a similar case shape and bezel at a fraction of the cost, while the Invicta Pro Diver provides a dive watch aesthetic for under $100. These homages lack the finishing and movement quality of the original, but they offer a taste of the style.
Investment Value
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net has a retail price of $9,500. On the pre-owned market, prices range from $7,000 to $8,500, depending on condition and completeness. The trend is stable, with no significant appreciation or depreciation. As a non-limited model, it is not a collector's item in the traditional sense, but its unique design and brand reputation ensure it holds its value reasonably well. For a buyer, it is a safe purchase that will not lose money quickly, but it is unlikely to appreciate significantly. The hold recommendation is to enjoy the watch for its craftsmanship and character, rather than as an investment.
Service Interval
Ulysse Nardin recommends a service every 5 years, with an approximate cost of $700. The silicon components require specialized care, so it is advisable to use an authorized service center, although independent watchmakers with experience in silicon movements can also perform the service. The movement's robust design and anti-magnetic properties contribute to its longevity.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- In-house movement with silicon technology
- Distinctive net-patterned dial
- 300m water resistance
- Comfortable rubber strap
Cons
- Large case may not suit small wrists
- Limited availability of aftermarket parts
- Resale value may not appreciate significantly
Final Verdict
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net is a compelling choice for the collector who seeks a dive watch with personality and technical depth. Its manufacture movement, unique dial, and robust build make it a worthy addition to any serious collection. While it may not be the most conventional choice, it rewards those who appreciate the brand's maritime heritage and forward-thinking design.
