Introduction
When Ulysse Nardin unveiled the UFO, it was not merely a watch; it was a statement. The reference 9023-900LE-3A-BLUE is a limited edition that defies conventional watchmaking norms, much like its namesake. This piece is a horological UFO – an unidentified flying object that challenges the boundaries of design, mechanics, and aesthetics. With a deep blue dial that evokes the vastness of the cosmos and a movement that seems to float within its case, this watch is a testament to Ulysse Nardin's relentless pursuit of innovation.
The UFO is not for the faint of heart. It is a bold, avant-garde creation that demands attention. Yet, beneath its otherworldly exterior lies a meticulously crafted movement that honors the brand's maritime heritage and its legacy of precision. This review will dissect every element of the UFO, from its case architecture to its finishing, and provide a candid assessment of its wearability and value.
Manufacture History
Ulysse Nardin was founded in 1846 in Le Locle, Switzerland, and quickly became renowned for its marine chronometers, winning numerous awards for precision. In the modern era, the brand has embraced avant-garde design and innovative materials, while still honoring its horological roots. The UFO model exemplifies this duality, blending futuristic aesthetics with a high-end tourbillon movement.
Movement
At the heart of the UFO beats the in-house caliber UN-172, an automatic movement with a flying tourbillon. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, revealing a skeletonized architecture with Côtes de Genève decoration. The platinum rotor is engraved with the Ulysse Nardin logo and provides efficient winding. The silicon escapement and balance spring ensure antimagnetic properties and long-term accuracy. The tourbillon rotates once per minute, creating a mesmerizing dance of gears and springs. The power reserve of 96 hours is generous, and the movement is COSC-certified, guaranteeing precision within -4/+6 seconds per day.
Specifications
- Case Diameter: 45mm
- Case Thickness: 14.2mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 52mm
- Case Material: Titanium
- Crystal: Sapphire (domed, with anti-reflective coating)
- Water Resistance: 100m
- Lume: Super-LumiNova X1 on hands and indices
- Bracelet/Strap: Blue rubber strap with titanium deployant clasp
Wrist Feel
The UFO is a substantial watch, but the titanium case keeps the weight surprisingly manageable. On a 7-inch wrist, the 45mm diameter and 52mm lug-to-lug sit comfortably, though the thick caseback and domed crystal create a noticeable presence. The rubber strap is supple and conforms well, with a deployant clasp that offers micro-adjustment. The watch feels secure and balanced, never top-heavy despite the tourbillon carriage. It is a watch that you are always aware of, but not in an uncomfortable way – more like a constant reminder of the mechanical marvel on your wrist.
The crown is large and easy to grip, with a signed logo. The pusher for the tourbillon? There is none – the tourbillon runs continuously. The overall ergonomics are surprisingly good for a watch of this size, thanks to the curved lugs and the flexible rubber strap. It wears more like a 44mm watch with a short lug-to-lug, making it suitable for larger wrists but perhaps a stretch for smaller ones.
Accuracy
In real-world testing, the UN-172 movement performed within COSC standards, averaging +2 seconds per day over a week. The silicon escapement ensures minimal variation due to magnetism or temperature. Day-to-day, you can expect consistent performance, though the tourbillon's constant rotation adds a slight aesthetic penalty to timekeeping – but that's the price of spectacle.
Occasions
The UFO is versatile enough for formal events, thanks to its elegant blue dial and titanium case, but it also shines in casual settings. The rubber strap makes it suitable for sporty activities, though the tourbillon is not designed for extreme shocks. It is a daily wearer for those who appreciate bold design, and it travels well due to its robust construction and 100m water resistance.
Wrist Presence
5/5 – The UFO is an absolute statement piece. The blue dial, the flying tourbillon, the titanium case – it commands attention without being gaudy. It is a conversation starter and a piece that will be noticed by both watch enthusiasts and the uninitiated.
Reference Variants
The UFO is available in two dial colors: blue (ref. 9023-900LE-3A-BLUE) and black (ref. 9023-900LE-3A-BLACK). Both are limited to 99 pieces each. The blue variant is the more striking of the two, with a sunburst finish that catches light beautifully. The black variant is more understated but equally refined.
Family References
The UFO belongs to Ulysse Nardin's avant-garde collection, alongside the Freak X, Blast, and Marine Torpilleur. While the Freak X features a unique carousel movement, the UFO focuses on a traditional tourbillon with a modern twist.
Other Notable Models by Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin has a rich catalog, including the Freak S (a double tourbillon), the Diver Net (made from recycled fishing nets), and the Executive Skeleton (a skeletonized automatic). Each model showcases the brand's commitment to innovation and sustainability.
Similar Watches
If you appreciate the UFO's avant-garde design, consider the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire, which offers a similar transparent case and bold aesthetic. The Richard Mille RM 27-03 Tourbillon is another high-end option with a flying tourbillon, though at a significantly higher price. For a more traditional take, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Tourbillon combines a sporty case with a tourbillon.
Homages
For those on a budget, the Seagull 1963 Tourbillon offers a Chinese-made flying tourbillon at around $1,200. The Stuhrling Original Tourbillon is even more affordable at $400, though the finishing and accuracy are not comparable to the Ulysse Nardin.
Investment Value
The UFO has an MSRP of $45,000 and retains its value well due to the limited production. Pre-owned examples typically sell for $38,000-$42,000. The trend is stable, as the watch is not a hyper-investable piece but holds its own among collectors. Auction history is minimal, with private sales at or near MSRP.
Service Interval
Ulysse Nardin recommends a service every 5 years. The cost is approximately $1,200, and service must be performed by an authorized center due to the complexity of the tourbillon and silicon components. Expect a turnaround of 8-12 weeks.
Pros and Cons
Pros
- Stunning blue dial with sunburst finish
- In-house flying tourbillon with silicon escapement
- Lightweight titanium case
- Limited edition exclusivity (99 pieces)
- Excellent lume and legibility
Cons
- Large case size may not suit smaller wrists
- High price point limits accessibility
- Rubber strap may not appeal to traditionalists
- No date or other complications
- Service costs are high and require authorized centers
Final Verdict
The Ulysse Nardin UFO Ref. 9023-900LE-3A-BLUE is a horological anomaly that succeeds in being both a technical marvel and a design statement. It is not a watch for everyone, but for those who appreciate the avant-garde, it offers a unique blend of heritage and innovation. The flying tourbillon, the blue dial, and the titanium case come together to create a piece that is as much a work of art as it is a timekeeper. If you have the wrist and the wallet, the UFO is a worthy addition to any serious collection.
