Vilhelm Parfumerie Fragrance review

Vilhelm Parfumerie Harlem Bloom Review: Suede & Rose

A saffron-kissed suede and rose composition with modern edge

By Vivir ·
Vilhelm Parfumerie Harlem Bloom, released in 2017, is a unisex EDP that pairs the warmth of saffron and suede with the softness of damask rose and violet. The fragrance was originally launched under this name and later renamed 125th & Bloom for the US market, though the juice remains identical. With a rating of 3.66 out of 5 from 213 votes on Fragrantica, it occupies a solid niche position among leather-rose compositions. Priced between $145 and $245 for a 100ml bottle, Harlem Bloom targets wearers who appreciate a modern, slightly powdery take on leather. The perfumer, Zoran Cerar, built the scent around a core of suede and ebony, lifted by a spicy saffron opening and a floral heart. Performance data from user reports indicates very long longevity of 8+ hours, with moderate to strong sillage that settles into a soft skin scent after the first couple of hours. This review breaks down the accords, notes, scent evolution, performance, seasonality, and value to help you decide if Harlem Bloom deserves a place in your collection.
Longevity
4.0
Projection
3.0
Sillage
3.0
$145-$245
SpringSummerFallWinter

Accords

leather musky warm spicy powdery rose woody metallic violet floral amber

Notes Pyramid

Top
saffronangelica
Heart
damask roseviolet
Base
suedeebony

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The first 0-30 minutes are dominated by saffron and angelica, creating a spicy, slightly green and metallic opening. The saffron lends a warm, leathery nuance while angelica adds an aromatic, almost medicinal freshness that keeps the start from feeling heavy.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

After 1-2 hours, the heart reveals damask rose and violet. The rose is soft and slightly jammy, while violet contributes a powdery, vintage floral character. Together they smooth out the opening's sharpness and introduce a velvety texture over the emerging suede base.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

At the 4+ hour mark, suede and ebony take over. The drydown is a musky, woody, leathery warmth with a faint metallic edge and a lingering whisper of rose. It sits close to the skin, feeling like a well-worn suede jacket.

Performance Dashboard

Longevity 4.0/5

8+ hours (very long lasting per user reports)

Projection 3.0/5

moderate; strong for the first 1-2 hours, then settles into a soft suede/rose skin scent

Sillage 3.0/5

moderate to strong

When to Wear

SpringOK
SummerAvoid
FallBest
WinterBest
date nightevening outoffice (light application)formal eventscool-weather daily wear

Pros & Cons

  • Very long-lasting (8+ hours)
  • Unique saffron-suede-rose blend
  • Versatile for cool weather and formal occasions
  • Unisex and well-blended
  • Moderate sillage avoids being overwhelming
  • Projection drops significantly after the first 1-2 hours
  • Pricey at $145-$245 for 100ml
  • Powdery violet may be too vintage for some
  • Not suitable for high heat or summer days

Price & Value

$145-$245
Niche pricing, but 100ml size and strong longevity offer reasonable cost-per-wear.

“Fair value for a niche fragrance with above-average performance.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported

Who It's For

Ideal For

  • fans of leather and suede accords
  • lovers of rose and powdery florals
  • those seeking a modern unisex niche fragrance
  • wearers who enjoy Byredo Black Saffron or Tom Ford Tuscan Leather but want a softer take

Not Recommended For

  • those who dislike leather or powdery notes
  • fans of fresh citrus or aquatic scents
  • budget-conscious buyers unwilling to spend over $100
  • people looking for a loud, room-filling fragrance

Explore More

Similar Fragrances

Black Saffron Black Saffron Byredo
French Leather Memo Paris
Gentle Fluidity Silver Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Tuscan Leather Tuscan Leather Tom Ford

Clone Alternatives

125th & Bloom Vilhelm Parfumerie (same scent, renamed for the US market)

Layering Ideas

Final Verdict

Vilhelm Parfumerie Harlem Bloom is a refined, modern leather-rose that excels in cool weather and formal settings. Its saffron-suede core is distinctive yet wearable, and the 8+ hour longevity justifies the niche price for many. If you enjoy powdery, suede-forward florals with a spicy edge, this is worth sampling.

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