A crisp, aromatic fig-leaf fragrance with a woody drydown
By Vivir·
In this review
Vilhelm Parfumerie, the Stockholm-based niche house founded by Jan Ahlgren, has built a reputation for fragrances that blend classic elegance with modern storytelling. Purple Fig, launched in 2016, is a prime example of the brand's ability to reinterpret familiar notes in unexpected ways. Composed by perfumer Jérôme Epinette, Purple Fig is often categorized as a fig fragrance, but it diverges significantly from the sweet, jammy fig profiles popularized by other niche houses. Instead, it presents a green, aromatic study of the fig leaf, with a bitter galbanum heart and a clean woody base.
It is important to note a discrepancy in the official note pyramid. The Vilhelm Parfumerie product page lists top notes of Sichuan Pepper and Angelica Seeds, a heart of Galbanum, Green Fig, and Jasmine Absolue, and a base of Vetiver and Cashmere Woods. However, the widely referenced Fragrantica database and a detailed review by Colognoisseur list Lemon, Cassis, and Angelica as top notes; Fig, Galbanum, and Cyclamen as heart notes; and Cypress and Virginian Cedar as base notes. For the purpose of this review, we will use the Fragrantica pyramid, as it is the more commonly cited and detailed source, but we acknowledge the official listing may reflect a reformulation or a different interpretation of the composition.
What remains consistent across all sources is the fragrance's character: a dry, green fig-leaf scent that leans more aromatic and bitter than sweet. Several reviewers note that jasmine and green galbanum dominate over the fig, and the fragrance is frequently described as more feminine-leaning in practice despite its unisex labeling. With an overall user rating of 3.55 out of 5 on Fragrantica based on 749 votes, Purple Fig is a polarizing but respected entry in the fig genre.
The opening is bright and green, with lemon and cassis providing a tart, fruity sparkle over a cool angelica root. The initial impression is crisp and slightly bitter, immediately signaling that this is not a sweet fig.
2
Heart1-2 hrs
The heart reveals galbanum's bitter green bite, softened by cyclamen and a dry, leafy fig note that is more stem than fruit. Jasmine (if present per the official pyramid) adds a subtle floral nuance, but the overall effect remains vegetal and aromatic.
3
Drydown4+ hrs
A clean woody base of cypress and Virginian cedar emerges, with a subtle musky powder that stays close to the skin. The drydown is soft, slightly sweet from the cedar, and very wearable.
Performance Dashboard
Longevity4.0/5
6-8 hours on skin, typical for an EDP but not exceptional.
Projection3.0/5
Moderate projection that sits closer to the skin after the first hour.
Sillage3.0/5
Moderate; noticeable within arm's reach but not room-filling.
When to Wear
SpringBest
SummerBest
FallOK
WinterAvoid
officedaytime casualart gallery / cultural outingwarm-weather everyday wear
Pros & Cons
+Unique green fig-leaf interpretation
+Well-blended and refined
+Versatile for warm weather and office wear
+Nice woody drydown
−Moderate longevity and projection
−May be too green or bitter for some
−Pricey for the performance
−Fig note can be overshadowed by galbanum and jasmine
Price & Value
$150-$245
Typical niche pricing for 100ml EDP; quality is high but performance is moderate.
“Fair value for those who love the scent profile, but not a bargain.”
Reformulation History
No significant batch variations reported.
Who It's For
Ideal For
Those who enjoy green, aromatic fig-leaf scents rather than sweet fruity figs
Fans of Diptyque Philosykos or other dry green fig fragrances
People seeking a refined, unisex daytime fragrance for warmer months
Not Recommended For
Those expecting a sweet, jammy fig like Figuier Eden
People who prefer heavy, sweet, or gourmand fragrances
Those looking for a strong projector or evening scent
Layer with a light citrus cologne like Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine to enhance the fresh top notes
Pair with a soft musk or white musk to amplify the clean, powdery drydown
Final Verdict
Purple Fig is a well-crafted green fig-leaf fragrance that leans more aromatic and bitter than sweet, making it a distinctive choice for fig lovers who prefer a drier, more sophisticated take. Its moderate performance and niche price may deter some, but for those seeking a refined warm-weather signature, it delivers.