Xerjoff Oud Luban Review: An Olfactory Pilgrimage of Smoke and Spirit

In the rarefied echelons of haute parfumerie, few houses command the same reverence for opulent materials and uncompromising quality as the Italian maison, Xerjoff. Founded in 2007 by Sergio Momo, the brand has distinguished itself through a baroque sensibility, uniting Italian craftsmanship with the most precious raw materials the world has to offer. Within its extensive portfolio, the Oud Stars collection stands as a monument to the ancient traditions of Arabian perfumery, a series of olfactory homages to the rich history chronicled in Ibn Battuta’s 14th-century travelogue, the Rihla. It is within this celestial collection that one finds Oud Luban, a fragrance launched in 2012 that is less a mere perfume and more a profound, contemplative experience.

Oud Luban does not position itself as a fleeting trend or a mass-market pleaser; rather, it is an artifact of olfactory art, designed for the discerning connoisseur. It occupies a niche of spiritual and meditative perfumery, a category often explored but seldom perfected. In a market saturated with interpretations of oud, many of which are synthetic, aggressive, or uninspired, Xerjoff’s approach is one of reverence. Here, the legendary agarwood is not presented in isolation but is instead engaged in a sacred dialogue with Luban, the Arabic name for frankincense—a resin that has been an integral part of spiritual ceremonies for millennia, from the temples of ancient Egypt to the cathedrals of Rome.

The conceptual underpinning of Oud Luban is one of spiritual pilgrimage. It seeks to capture the scent of sacred spaces, the quiet solemnity of a temple where smoke from burning resins curls towards the heavens. The fragrance is an olfactive representation of introspection, a bridge between the earthly and the divine. It eschews the typical “animalic” or “medicinal” facets of oud that have become commonplace, instead focusing on its deep, woody, and almost ethereal qualities. This is oud as a conduit for meditation, harmonized with the citrus-pine and balsamic warmth of the finest Omani frankincense, creating an aura of serene authority and ancient wisdom.

Among fragrance aficionados, Oud Luban is regarded as a masterpiece of the genre. It is celebrated not for its ability to garner fleeting compliments—though it certainly commands attention—but for its power to transport the wearer. Its impact is less social and more personal; it is a scent worn for oneself, a tool for focus and a source of comfort. It represents a mature and sophisticated understanding of luxury, one that prioritizes internal experience over external validation. In the grand tapestry of modern perfumery, Oud Luban is a thread of pure gold, weaving together history, spirituality, and the unparalleled artistry of its creators.