Introduction
The Yema Wristmaster is a watch that speaks to the collector who values heritage without sacrificing daily wearability. Born from the archives of a French manufacture that has been crafting timepieces since 1948, this model revives the spirit of the original Wristmaster from the 1950s—a period when Yema was equipping French military pilots and divers. The modern iteration retains the clean, utilitarian dial layout and the distinctive 'beads-of-rice' bracelet, but upgrades the movement and materials to meet the expectations of today's discerning enthusiast.
In an era where many brands chase complexity, the Wristmaster stands out for its restraint. It is a three-hand date watch with a slim profile, a domed sapphire crystal, and a case that measures a versatile 39mm. The dial is a study in legibility: applied indices, a railroad minute track, and a date window at 3 o'clock. The handset is a mix of baton and syringe shapes, filled with Super-LumiNova that glows a soft blue-green. This is not a watch that shouts; it whispers competence.
Under the hood beats the YEMA2000, an automatic movement based on the reliable Sellita SW200. While not in-house in the strictest sense, Yema has modified it with a custom rotor and regulated it to chronometer-like standards. The movement is visible through a sapphire caseback, offering a view of the perlage and blued screws. The Wristmaster is a compelling package for those who appreciate mid-century design with modern build quality.
Manufacture History
Yema was founded in 1948 in Morteau, France, a region known for its watchmaking tradition. The brand quickly gained a reputation for producing robust tool watches for the French military, including the Superman model used by the French Air Force and the Navygraf for divers. The Wristmaster line originally debuted in the 1950s as a dressier alternative, and was revived in 2020 as part of Yema's heritage collection. Today, Yema continues to produce watches in France, with assembly and regulation performed in their Morteau workshops.
Movement
The YEMA2000 is an automatic movement based on the Sellita SW200, a workhorse caliber used by many independent brands. Yema has modified it with a custom skeletonized rotor engraved with the brand's logo, and the movement is regulated to run within +5 to +10 seconds per day. The finishing includes perlage on the mainplate, blued screws, and a signed balance cock. While not COSC-certified, the accuracy is impressive for the price point. The power reserve is 38 hours, which is adequate for daily wear but falls short of modern 70-hour standards. The movement beats at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and has 26 jewels.
Specifications
- Case diameter: 39mm
- Case thickness: 11.5mm
- Lug-to-lug: 46mm
- Case material: 316L stainless steel
- Crystal: Domed sapphire with double AR coating
- Water resistance: 100 meters (10 ATM)
- Lume: Super-LumiNova BGW9 on hands and indices
- Bracelet: Beads-of-rice stainless steel, 20mm tapering to 16mm
- Clasp: Milled deployant with push-button release
Wrist Feel
The Wristmaster wears smaller than its 39mm diameter suggests, thanks to the short 46mm lug-to-lug and the downward-curving lugs. On a 6.5-inch wrist, it sits flat and secure, the beads-of-rice bracelet draping comfortably without pulling hair. The case is only 11.5mm thick, allowing it to slide under a dress shirt cuff with ease. The weight is balanced—not too light, not too heavy—giving a reassuring presence without fatigue.
The bracelet is a highlight: fully articulated links with a vintage taper from 20mm to 16mm at the clasp. The deployant clasp is milled and snaps shut with a satisfying click. For those who prefer leather, Yema offers a quick-release strap option, but the bracelet is so well-executed that it’s hard to recommend anything else. The crown is unsigned but easy to grip, and the signed crown tube adds a touch of refinement.
Accuracy
In real-world testing, the YEMA2000 movement consistently runs within +5 to +10 seconds per day, which is excellent for a non-COSC movement. The regulation is stable across different positions, and the power reserve of 38 hours is adequate for daily wear. If you wear it every day, you’ll rarely need to reset the time.
Occasions
The Wristmaster is versatile enough for daily wear, dress occasions, and even formal events. Its 100m water resistance means it can handle light swimming, but it’s not a dedicated dive watch. The vintage aesthetic pairs well with suits, casual wear, and even jeans and a t-shirt.
Wrist Presence
3.5/5 — The Wristmaster is understated but not invisible. The domed crystal and polished bezel catch light, and the beads-of-rice bracelet has a vintage shimmer. It won’t dominate a room, but it will be noticed by those who know watches.
Reference Variants
Three main variants are available: the YMA-1000 with a blue sunburst dial and steel bracelet, the YMA-1001 with a black matte dial and brown leather strap (no date), and the limited edition YMA-1002 with a cream enamel dial and blued hands (500 pieces). All share the same case and movement.
Family References
The Wristmaster is part of Yema's heritage line, which also includes the Superman (dive watch), Navygraf (military diver), and Flygraf (pilot watch). These models share the same case construction and movement architecture.
Other Notable Models by Yema
Yema also produces the Superman 500 (a 500m dive watch), the Navygraf Marine Nationale (issued to French Navy divers), and the Spacegraf (a quartz chronograph inspired by space exploration).
Similar Watches
If you like the Wristmaster, consider the Longines Heritage 1945 (similar mid-century design), the Omega Seamaster 1948 Small Seconds (vintage dress watch), or the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date (heritage pilot watch with a distinctive crown).
Homages
While there are no direct homages to the Wristmaster, the Seagull 1963 offers a similar vintage pilot aesthetic at a lower price point ($300). However, it is a hand-wound chronograph, not an automatic three-hander.
Investment Value
The MSRP is $1,290, and pre-owned examples sell for $800-$1,100. The trend is stable; the Wristmaster is not a limited edition (except the cream dial), so it will hold value but not appreciate. Buy it for the design, not as an investment.
Service Interval
Yema recommends service every 5 years. The cost is approximately $300 through an authorized service center. Independent watchmakers can also service the Sellita-based movement for less.
Pros and Cons
Pros: Beautiful vintage-inspired design, excellent bracelet quality, reliable modified Sellita movement, sapphire crystal with AR coating, 100m water resistance.
Cons: Not a true in-house movement, power reserve could be longer, crown is unsigned, limited availability of some dial variants.
Final Verdict
The Yema Wristmaster is a triumph of restrained design and modern execution. It offers the charm of a 1950s dress watch with the reliability of a contemporary automatic movement. For the collector who values heritage without the vintage headaches, this is a compelling choice that punches above its price point.
