Hermes Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate EDC

In this review
The 2016 release of Eau De Rhubarbe Écarlate marked a significant pivot in the history of Hermès perfumery. It was the first major contribution to the 'Colognes' collection by Christine Nagel, signaling a transition from the ethereal, watercolor minimalism of Jean-Claude Ellena to a more vibrant, textural, and carnal olfactory language. While the house’s previous iterations of the Cologne concentrated on citrus and herbaceous motifs, Nagel turned her gaze toward the vegetable garden, specifically the architectural and dualistic nature of rhubarb.
In the context of the Hermès heritage, the 'Eau de Cologne' is not merely a concentration but a stylistic exercise in freshness. Eau De Rhubarbe Écarlate challenges the traditional boundaries of this genre by replacing the expected hesperidic opening with the sharp, acidic crunch of rhubarb. It is a fragrance that celebrates the color scarlet—not through synthetic dyes, but through an olfactory palette that evokes the visual intensity of the plant’s stalk. This review seeks to deconstruct the composition’s structural integrity and its place within the contemporary luxury landscape.
$144-$144
Accords
fruity
green
sweet
aromatic
sour
musky
fresh
Notes Pyramid
Top
Rhubarb
Heart
Red BerriesLantana
Base
White Musk
Performance Dashboard
⏱️ Longevity
3-5 hours
📢 Projection
soft to moderate
💨 Sillage
moderate
When to Wear
🌸SpringBest
☀️SummerBest
🍂FallOK
❄️WinterAvoid
📌 casual daytime💼 office📌 spring outings📌 warm weather wear
Pros & Cons
- ✅ Unique and sophisticated use of rhubarb
- ✅ Masterful balance of tart and sweet
- ✅ Exquisite bottle design and branding
- ✅ Highly versatile for daytime use
- ❌ Short longevity typical of the EDC concentration
- ❌ May be too linear for some enthusiasts
- ❌ Lacks the complexity of the Jardin series
Price & Value
$144-$144
“A premium price point for an Eau de Cologne, justified primarily by the brand's prestige and the unique artistry of the composition.”
Reformulation History
No significant batch variations reported; the fragrance has remained consistent since its 2016 debut.
The Family
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Clone Alternatives
None currently available that capture the specific rhubarb-lantana accord.
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Layering Ideas
- Layer with Terre d'Hermès for an added earthy, woody foundation.
- Combine with a simple citrus scent to enhance the top-note brightness.
Final Verdict
Eau De Rhubarbe Écarlate is a triumphant debut for Christine Nagel at Hermès, offering a vivacious and modern alternative to the traditional citrus cologne. While its performance is fleeting, the olfactory journey it provides—from sharp acidity to musky softness—is a masterclass in textural perfumery.
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