perfume

The Golden Fire: Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Or Encens โ€“ A Vivir Insider Exclusive

A deeper dive into the cult classic's most opulent iteration.

By Sofia Chen-Martinez · · Updated

Alright, darlings, gather ''round. You know I always have the scoop, and today we''re diving deep into a fragrance that''s been making waves in the most discerning circles โ€“ a true departure from its iconic lineage, yet undeniably Issey Miyake. We''re talking about L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme Or Encens. If you thought you knew the L''Eau d''Issey man, prepare to be utterly captivated by his transformation.

Let''s set the scene. The original L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme, launched in 1994, wasn''t just a fragrance; it was a phenomenon. A crystalline, aquatic masterpiece that redefined masculine freshness with its Yuzu citrus and clean woody undertones. It became a global bestseller, a staple in countless collections, synonymous with purity, minimalism, and a certain effortless sophistication. It spoke to a generation that appreciated understated elegance and groundbreaking olfactory artistry, cementing Issey Miyake''s place not just in fashion, but in the upper echelons of perfumery.

Fast forward to 2021, and the brand took a bold, almost audacious step. While many flankers tend to riff on the original theme, Or Encens shattered expectations. It wasn''t about another aquatic twist or a fresher take; this was a plunge into the profound, an exploration of warmth, mystery, and ancient luxury. Or Encens positions itself not as a casual everyday scent, but as a statement piece, an opulent jewel in the L''Eau d''Issey crown, aimed squarely at the luxury consumer who craves depth and distinction. Itโ€™s a testament to the brand''s willingness to evolve, to challenge perceptions, and to offer something truly unique within a well-established portfolio.

The inspiration behind ''Or Encens'' โ€“ literally ''Gold Incense'' โ€“ is as rich as the scent itself. It evokes the shimmering heat of a desert sun, the sacred smoke of ancient rituals, and the precious resins traded along legendary spice routes. Itโ€™s a fusion of Eastern mystique and modern refinement, an olfactory journey that transports you to a realm of gilded temples and burning embers. This isn''t just a fragrance; it''s an experience, a narrative told through scent, designed to leave an unforgettable impression. Its reputation among collectors is growing; it''s seen as a confident, sophisticated offering that stands out, a cult favorite for those who appreciate a darker, more complex facet of the L''Eau d''Issey universe.

The Nose Behind the Scent

Christophe Raynaud, a renowned perfumer known for crafting impactful and balanced scents across designer and niche brands, with a portfolio including works for Paco Rabanne and Jean Paul Gaultier.

4.3 Overall
Longevity
4.3
Projection
4.0
Sillage
3.8
$95-$140 for 100ml
๐ŸŒธSpringโ˜€๏ธSummer๐Ÿ‚Fallโ„๏ธWinter

Accords

Incense 35%
Woody 25%
Spicy 20%
Amber 15%
Citrus 5%

Notes Pyramid

Top
GrapefruitPink PepperCistus Labdanum
Heart
IncenseLeatherCedarwood
Base
AmberwoodVetiverSandalwood

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The first spray delivers a captivating blend of bright grapefruit and sparkling pink pepper, quickly warmed by the resinous, slightly leathery touch of cistus labdanum. It''s a golden, spicy freshness that hints at the profound depth to come.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the initial effervescence settles, the profound heart of incense emergesโ€”dry, smoky, and almost spiritual. It''s elegantly supported by a refined leather accord and the clean, aromatic structure of cedarwood, creating a sophisticated and mysterious core.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The drydown is a luxurious, long-lasting embrace of warm, woody resins. Softened incense blends with creamy sandalwood and the deep resonance of amberwood, while vetiver adds an earthy sophistication, creating an elegant and profoundly comforting aura that lingers for hours.

Performance Dashboard

โฑ๏ธ Longevity 4.3/5

Exceptional longevity, typically lasting 8-10 hours on skin and even longer on clothing, making it perfect for extended wear.

๐Ÿ“ข Projection 4.0/5

Projects confidently for the first 2-3 hours, creating a noticeable aura without being overpowering. It''s present and engaging, drawing attention subtly.

๐Ÿ’จ Sillage 3.8/5

Leaves an elegant, moderate trail that is sophisticated and noticeable. It''s the kind of scent that lingers beautifully, inviting curiosity without overwhelming a space.

When to Wear

๐ŸŒธSpringAvoid
โ˜€๏ธSummerAvoid
๐Ÿ‚FallBest
โ„๏ธWinterBest
๐Ÿ’• Date night๐ŸŒ™ Evening eventsโœจ Special occasions๐Ÿ“Œ Formal business settings๐Ÿ“Œ Discerning clubbing

Community Verdict

โญ Overall
4.3
๐Ÿ‘ƒ Scent
4.5
โฑ๏ธ Longevity
4.2
๐Ÿ’จ Sillage
3.8
๐Ÿ’ฐ Value
3.5
๐Ÿ’Œ Compliment Factor 4.5/5

An extremely high compliment getter, particularly from women. Its unique, warm, and sophisticated profile creates an alluring and intriguing aura that consistently draws positive attention and inquiries.

Pros & Cons

  • โœ… Offers a truly unique and luxurious oriental-incense scent profile within the designer realm.
  • โœ… Exceptional longevity, ensuring the fragrance lasts for a significant duration.
  • โœ… Exudes sophistication and elegance, making it ideal for elevated occasions.
  • โœ… High compliment factor, consistently receiving positive remarks and inquiries.
  • โœ… Versatile for various evening and formal settings during cooler weather.
  • โŒ Not a blind buy due to its distinct and rich profile, requires sampling.
  • โŒ Can be overpowering if over-sprayed, requiring a light hand.
  • โŒ Premium price point makes it an investment, not a budget-friendly option.
  • โŒ Limited seasonality, best suited for colder months, less versatile year-round.

Price & Value

$95-$140 for 100ml
Premium to Luxury

“Absolutely worth the investment for discerning fragrance enthusiasts who appreciate its high-quality ingredients, excellent performance, and distinctive sophisticated character.”

๐Ÿ“œ Reformulation History

As a relatively recent release (2021), there are no known major reformulations or significant batch variations reported for L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme Or Encens, indicating consistent quality.

Who It's For

โœ… Ideal For

  • Men 30-60 who are confident, sophisticated, and appreciate depth and mystery in a fragrance.
  • Individuals who enjoy oriental and incense-heavy profiles and prefer a statement scent over a casual one.
  • Those who value quality and a distinctive olfactive signature.

โš ๏ธ Not Recommended For

  • Younger individuals (under 25) who typically prefer lighter, more playful scents.
  • Those sensitive to strong, resinous, or smoky fragrances.
  • Conservative office environments where a very subtle scent is preferred due to its rich nature.

The Family

L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme Intense Issey Miyake

A darker, spicier, and more intense take on the original, featuring notes of mandarin, saffron, and amber for enhanced depth.

L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme Sport Issey Miyake

A fresher, more dynamic interpretation, focusing on invigorating citrus and vetiver for an energetic and active feel.

L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme Wood & Wood Issey Miyake

A strong woody composition emphasizing grapefruit, cedarwood, and sandalwood, exploring a different, robust natural facet.

L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme Nuit Issey Miyake

A sensual and nocturnal fragrance designed for evening wear, featuring prominent notes of leather, patchouli, and black spices.

Explore More

๐Ÿ” Similar Fragrances

Amouage Interlude Man Amouage

Shares a similar rich, smoky incense and amber grandeur, though much more potent and complex.

Tom Ford Oud Wood Tom Ford

Offers a refined, exotic woody profile with a subtle smoky touch, appealing to a similar sophisticated palate.

Comme des Garรงons Incense Series (e.g., Avignon) Comme des Garรงons

For pure, unadulterated, spiritual incense experiences, albeit in a more minimalist style.

Dior Sauvage Elixir Dior

Shares a similar bold, spicy-amber intensity and commanding presence, though with a different aromatic signature.

๐Ÿ’ก Clone Alternatives

Afnan Supremacy Incense Afnan

Often cited for its strong, smoky incense and woody facets at a much more accessible price point, offering a similar luxurious feel.

Lattafa Opulent Oud Lattafa

While not a direct clone, it provides a rich, smoky, woody-amber profile that might appeal to fans of Or Encens looking for something in a similar vein.

โค๏ธ You May Also Enjoy

Yves Saint Laurent M7 Oud Absolu Yves Saint Laurent

A deep, resinous oud and amber fragrance that exudes warmth and sophistication.

Narciso Rodriguez For Him Bleu Noir Parfum Narciso Rodriguez

A modern, elegant woody-musk with a touch of spice and profound depth.

Guerlain L''Homme Ideal EDP Guerlain

A rich, almond-cherry-leather combination that is both sophisticated and alluring.

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir Maison Francis Kurkdjian

A stunning, opulent amber fragrance that is both warm and incredibly refined.

More from Issey Miyake

L''Eau d''Issey (for women) Issey Miyake
A Scent by Issey Miyake Issey Miyake
L''Eau Bleue d''Issey Pour Homme Issey Miyake
Pleats Please Issey Miyake

๐Ÿงช Layering Ideas

๐Ÿ† Final Verdict

Let''s be real, darlings. In a world saturated with ''fresh'' and ''blue'' fragrances, L''Eau d''Issey Pour Homme Or Encens is a breath of opulent, smoky air. Itโ€™s not just a fragrance; itโ€™s an invitation to a more sophisticated, mysterious, and deeply alluring version of yourself. This is the scent for the man who understands that true luxury isn''t about shouting, but about resonating. Itโ€™s for the one who commands attention with a quiet confidence, who appreciates artistry and depth in his olfactive wardrobe.

You should absolutely consider adding Or Encens to your collection if youโ€™re seeking a fragrance that:

  • Defies Expectations: It breaks free from the aquatic mold of its lineage, offering something truly unique and unexpected.
  • Exudes Sophistication: The blend of incense, leather, and amberwood creates an aura of refined elegance that is perfect for evening and special occasions.
  • Offers Exceptional Performance: With impressive longevity and a noticeable, yet polite, sillage, it ensures you make a lasting impression.
  • Is a Compliment Magnet: Its distinctive warmth and allure consistently draw positive attention and curiosity.
  • Transcends Trends: While new, its profile feels timeless and classic, ensuring it remains relevant for years to come.

This isn''t just another scent; it''s a statement. Itโ€™s a golden ember that burns long and bright, leaving an unforgettable trail of mystery and luxury. Trust me, you''ll want this in your arsenal for those moments when you want to feel truly extraordinary. Don''t just wear a fragrance; wear a story, wear Or Encens.

Issey MiyakeLuxury FragranceMen's PerfumeIncense FragranceOriental WoodyDesigner FragranceVivir InsiderOr Encens