Burberry Fragrance review

Burberry High Tide Review: A Floral Aquatic by Kurkdjian

An ozonic, mossy floral aquatic that reimagines the sea through aldehydes and oakmoss.

By Vivir ·
Burberry High Tide, released in 2017, is a fragrance that refuses to shout. It belongs to the Burberry Bespoke collection, a line that allows for a more rarefied, personalized approach to scent than the house's mainstream pillars. Composed by Francis Kurkdjian, one of the most influential perfumers of his generation, High Tide is a floral aquatic that filters the sea through an aldehydic, mossy lens. It is unisex in the truest sense: neither aggressively masculine nor conventionally feminine, but a transparent, almost abstract meditation on salt, air, and root. In a market saturated with sweet ambers and loud woods, High Tide is a quiet intellectual. Its notes are few but precisely chosen: bergamot and aldehydes at the top, sea notes, violet leaf, jasmine, and hedione in the heart, and oakmoss at the base. The result is a fragrance that feels both vintage and modern, recalling the crisp aldehydes of mid-century perfumery while embracing the airy transparency that Kurkdjian has made his signature. It is not a crowd-pleaser in the conventional sense, and its modest Fragrantica rating of 3.52 suggests a divisive character. Yet for those who appreciate restraint, High Tide offers a compelling alternative to the aquatic clichés of the 1990s. This review will examine the composition, heritage, performance, and reception of Burberry High Tide. It will place the fragrance within the context of the Burberry Bespoke collection, analyze the role of its key materials, and offer guidance on who should wear it and when. Throughout, the aim is to be scholarly and comprehensive, drawing on verified data while acknowledging the subjective nature of fragrance appreciation.
Longevity
4.0
Projection
3.0
Sillage
3.0
Not reliably available
SpringSummerFallWinter

Accords

marine aquatic mossy aromatic ozonic citrus fresh floral earthy white floral

Notes Pyramid

Top
BergamotAldehydes
Heart
Sea NotesViolet LeafJasmineHedione
Base
Oakmoss

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The first spray is a burst of bergamot and aldehydes. It is bright, slightly soapy, and very clean. The aldehydes give a vintage feel, reminiscent of classic colognes, but the bergamot keeps it modern. There is a hint of something green and watery already, foreshadowing the heart.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

The sea notes and hedione take center stage. The fragrance becomes more transparent and airy, with a soft floral backdrop from jasmine and a green, slightly metallic edge from violet leaf. The oakmoss begins to peek through, adding a subtle earthiness. Projection is moderate, creating a scent bubble that is noticeable but not overwhelming.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The oakmoss dominates. The fragrance turns mossy, earthy, and slightly bitter. The marine and floral notes recede, leaving a quiet, skin-like finish. Longevity is around 6-8 hours on most skin, with the final hours being very close to the skin. The drydown is where High Tide reveals its true character: not a simple aquatic, but a mossy chypre in disguise.

Performance Dashboard

Longevity 4.0/5

6-8 hours on skin

Projection 3.0/5

moderate; stronger for first 1-2 hours, then close to skin

Sillage 3.0/5

moderate

When to Wear

SpringBest
SummerBest
FallOK
WinterAvoid
everydaycasualofficesignature scentdaytime

Pros & Cons

  • Refined, transparent aquatic composition
  • Unisex and office-friendly
  • Distinctive oakmoss drydown
  • Perfumer pedigree of Francis Kurkdjian
  • Moderate longevity and projection
  • Divisive earthy/celery facet
  • Limited availability as a Bespoke release
  • Modest community rating

Price & Value

Not reliably available
N/A

“No verified price data; as a Burberry Bespoke release, pricing and availability vary by market.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported.

Who It's For

Ideal For

  • unisex fragrance wearers
  • lovers of aquatic florals
  • those seeking a fresh office-safe signature
  • fans of Francis Kurkdjian's transparent style

Not Recommended For

  • those who dislike aldehydes
  • wearers seeking heavy projection
  • people sensitive to oakmoss or earthy notes

Explore More

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Layering Ideas

Final Verdict

Burberry High Tide is a cerebral, transparent aquatic that trades bombast for nuance. Its aldehydic opening and oakmoss drydown make it a distinctive unisex signature for spring and summer, though its moderate performance and divisive earthy facet may limit its appeal. For lovers of Francis Kurkdjian's minimalist style, it remains a worthy discovery.

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BurberryHigh TideFrancis Kurkdjianfloral aquaticoakmossunisex2017Bespoke