Yves Saint Laurent Fragrance review

YSL Cuir 2023 Review: The Velvet Majesty of Oud Assafi

Name: YSL Cuir 2023 Review: The Velvet Majesty of Oud Assafi
Item: Yves Saint Laurent Cuir 2023
Author: Vivir

An opulent transformation of leather into high-fashion olfactory art.

By Vivir · October 30, 2026 · Updated October 31, 2026

YSL Cuir 2023 Review: The Velvet Majesty of Oud Assafi - Product Image

In the rarified air of luxury perfumery, few names carry the weight of Yves Saint Laurent’s 'Le Vestiaire des Parfums.' This collection is a tribute to the couturier's most iconic garments, and 'Cuir'—the 2023 reimagining by the legendary Fabrice Pellegrin—serves as the olfactory equivalent of a bespoke black leather trench coat lined with the finest silk. This is not merely a fragrance; it is an architectural statement of power, sensuality, and the avant-garde spirit that defined Saint Laurent himself. While the name 'Cuir' has appeared in the YSL archives before, specifically the 2016 Ermenidis creation, the 2023 iteration is a different beast entirely. It belongs to the 'Sublime Oud' sub-narrative within the collection, focusing on the prestigious Oud Assafi Essence. This review explores the depths of this dark, amber-hued liquid, a scent that demands attention and rewards the wearer with unparalleled sophistication.

Longevity

5.0

Projection

5.0

Sillage

4.0

$340

SpringSummerFallWinter

Accords

Leather 25%

Oud 20%

Woody 15%

Warm Spicy 15%

Ambery 10%

Powdery/Floral 5%

Animalic 5%

Sweet 5%

Notes Pyramid

Top

Mandarin EssenceCardamom EssenceViolet Leaf Absolu

Heart

Clove EssenceOud Assafi EssenceSuede Accord

Base

Patchouli HeartCedarwood HeartBourbon VanillaSandalwood Heart

Scent Journey

Opening 0-30 min

The fragrance opens with a deceptive brightness. Mandarin essence provides a brief, zesty flicker that is immediately grounded by the cold, metallic green of Violet Leaf Absolu and the aromatic, slightly camphoraceous warmth of Cardamom.

Heart 1-2 hrs

As the initial sparkle fades, the heart reveals a masterful Oud Assafi—clean, deep, and resinous—wrapped in a luxurious suede accord. Clove essence adds a dry, spicy texture that mimics the tactile grain of high-end leather.

Drydown 4+ hrs

The finale is a symphonic blend of woods and sweetness. The Bourbon Vanilla doesn't turn gourmand; instead, it provides a creamy cushion for the earthy Patchouli Heart and the buttery Sandalwood, ensuring the leather remains supple rather than harsh.

Performance Dashboard

Longevity 5.0/5

Exceptional; easily exceeds 10 hours on skin and remains on clothing for days.

Projection 5.0/5

Heavy; a single spray fills a room. Exercise caution in enclosed spaces.

Sillage 4.0/5

Strong and commanding without being cloying in the open air.

When to Wear

SpringOKNight

SummerAvoid

FallBest

WinterBest

EveningDate NightFormal/Black TieCool-weather Signature

Pros & Cons

Uses world-class Oud Assafi
Incredible performance and longevity
Masterful balance of spice and creaminess

Very high price point
Can be overwhelming if over-applied
Name collision with 2016 version causes confusion

Price & Value

$340

125ml Eau de Parfum

“A significant investment, but justified by the quality of ingredients and potency.”

Reformulation History

No significant batch variations reported for this 2023 release.

Who It's For

Ideal For

Connoisseurs of high-grade oud
Fans of dark, sophisticated leather
Those seeking a 'power' scent for formal events

Not Recommended For

Lovers of light florals
Those sensitive to strong projection
Casual daytime wear in high heat

The Family

Cuir (2016) Yves Saint Laurent

Explore More

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Clone Alternatives

Cuir Interpretation Alexandria Fragrances

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Layering Ideas

Layer with a light vanilla solinote to amplify the drydown
Pair with a crisp citrus cologne to brighten the top notes

Final Verdict

YSL Cuir (2023) is a monumental achievement in the Le Vestiaire des Parfums line. It successfully bridges the gap between traditional Middle Eastern oud and Parisian high-fashion leather, resulting in a scent that is both intimidatingly elegant and deeply comforting.