perfume

Issey Miyake Pleats Please Eau de Parfum: A Bold Floral Symphony for the Modern Individual

Unpacking the unique scent and enduring appeal of a fragrance icon.

By James Whitmore · · Updated

Launched in 2013, Issey Miyake's Pleats Please Eau de Parfum arrived not just as another scent, but as a fragrant extension of a revolutionary fashion concept. The original Pleats Please clothing line, introduced in 1993, celebrated ease of movement, vibrant color, and a playful, yet sophisticated aesthetic. This fragrance aims to capture that same spirit in olfactory form. It was developed to be a scent that is both accessible and distinctive, breaking away from traditional masculine and feminine scent categories to offer something universally appealing and modern.

In the crowded landscape of designer fragrances, Pleats Please carved out a unique niche. Positioned as a contemporary floral, it stands apart from the sweeter gourmands or the heavier orientals that often dominate the market. Within the Issey Miyake lineup, known for its clean and aquatic fragrances like L'Eau d'Issey, Pleats Please offers a bolder, more abstract floral interpretation. It’s a testament to the brand’s ongoing commitment to innovation and artistic expression in both fashion and fragrance.

The inspiration behind Pleats Please Eau de Parfum is rooted in the dynamism and joy associated with the fashion line. Imagine the ripple effect of fabric, the vibrant energy of movement, and the sheer pleasure of wearing something that feels both comfortable and eye-catching. The scent is designed to evoke this feeling – a bright, uplifting, and modern floral that is both playful and elegant. It’s a scent for someone who embraces life with a sense of optimism and a flair for the unconventional.

Pleats Please has garnered a dedicated following, particularly among those who appreciate its unconventional approach to floral perfumery. It’s often described as a 'happy' scent, one that garners attention without being aggressive. While not a mainstream blockbuster in the vein of some other designer releases, it has achieved cult status for its distinctive character and its ability to evoke a specific mood and aesthetic. Its enduring presence in the market speaks to its successful translation of a fashion ethos into a wearable fragrance experience.

The Nose Behind the Scent

The nose behind Issey Miyake Pleats Please Eau de Parfum is Aurelien Guichard. Guichard is a respected perfumer with a diverse portfolio, known for his ability to create modern and sophisticated scents. He has worked with numerous high-profile brands, creating fragrances such as Gucci Guilty Pour Homme, Davidoff Horizon, and Valentino Uomo. His background includes training at Givaudan and a deep understanding of both classic perfumery techniques and contemporary scent trends, allowing him to craft unique olfactory experiences like Pleats Please.

4.3 Overall
Longevity
4.5
Projection
4.0
Sillage
3.8
$75 - $110 for 50ml, $100 - $150 for 100ml
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Floral 50%
Fruity 20%
Sweet 15%
Woody 10%
Fresh 5%

Notes Pyramid

Top
Nashi PearBlack CurrantPink Pepper
Heart
PeonySweet PeaNeroliViolet
Base
PatchouliWhite MuskCedarwood

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

The initial spray is an explosion of bright, juicy fruitiness, dominated by the crisp sweetness of Nashi Pear and the slightly tart zest of Black Currant. A subtle, almost effervescent hint of Pink Pepper adds a touch of gentle spice, preventing the opening from becoming overly sweet and setting a vibrant, uplifting tone.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

As the fragrance settles, the floral heart emerges with considerable presence. The creamy, slightly powdery sweetness of Peony takes center stage, beautifully complemented by the delicate, airy aroma of Sweet Pea and the clean, citrusy nuance of Neroli. A whisper of Violet adds a touch of sophisticated, slightly green floralcy, creating a well-rounded and elegant bouquet.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

The drydown is where Pleats Please reveals its grounded, sophisticated side. The sweetness softens, making way for the earthy, slightly chocolatey facets of Patchouli. This is balanced by a clean, enveloping White Musk that adds a smooth, lingering warmth, and a dry, woody touch from Cedarwood that provides structure and longevity without becoming heavy.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 4.5/5

Lasts an impressive 8-10 hours on skin, often longer with good application.

📢 Projection 4.0/5

Projects noticeably for the first 3-4 hours, creating a pleasant scent bubble.

💨 Sillage 3.8/5

Leaves a moderate, elegant trail that is noticeable but not overwhelming, making it suitable for various settings.

When to Wear

🌸SpringBest
☀️SummerBest
🍂FallOK
❄️WinterAvoid

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
4.3
👃 Scent
4.5
⏱️ Longevity
4.4
💨 Sillage
3.9
💰 Value
3.8

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ Unique and modern floral-fruity scent profile.
  • ✅ Excellent longevity for an Eau de Parfum.
  • ✅ Bright, uplifting, and cheerful aroma.
  • ✅ Beautiful and iconic bottle design.
  • ✅ Good projection without being overpowering.
  • ❌ Can be perceived as slightly too sweet by some.
  • ❌ May not appeal to lovers of traditional, deep fragrances.
  • ❌ The unique scent can be polarizing for a small segment of users.

Price & Value

$75 - $110 for 50ml, $100 - $150 for 100ml
Premium

“Given its unique scent, excellent performance, and artistic presentation, Pleats Please Eau de Parfum offers good value within the premium designer fragrance market. It's an investment in a distinctive olfactory experience.”

3.8 Overall
Longevity
3.2
Projection
2.8
Sillage
2.9
$70-100 for 100ml
🌸Spring☀️Summer🍂Fall❄️Winter

Accords

Fresh 30%
Fruity 25%
Floral 25%
Musky 10%
Woody 10%

Notes Pyramid

Top
Nashi PearGreen AppleBergamot
Heart
PeonySweet PeaHedione
Base
White MuskSandalwoodAmbroxan

Scent Journey

1
Opening 0-30 min

Bright burst of Nashi Pear and crisp Green Apple, with a hint of sparkling Bergamot. Very fresh and uplifting.

2
Heart 1-2 hrs

The initial fruitiness quickly softens into a delicate floral bouquet of Peony and Sweet Pea, lifted by a clean, airy Hedione note. Less dense than the EDP.

3
Drydown 4+ hrs

Fades to a soft, clean blend of White Musk and creamy Sandalwood, with a modern touch of Ambroxan. Less pronounced patchouli than the EDP.

Performance Dashboard

⏱️ Longevity 3.2/5

Typically lasts 5-7 hours.

📢 Projection 2.8/5

Moderate projection for the first 1-2 hours, then sits closer.

💨 Sillage 2.9/5

Leaves a soft, personal trail.

When to Wear

🌸SpringBest
☀️SummerBest
🍂FallOK
❄️WinterAvoid

Community Verdict

⭐ Overall
3.8
👃 Scent
4.0
⏱️ Longevity
3.2
💨 Sillage
3.0
💰 Value
4.2

Pros & Cons

  • ✅ Lighter and fresher
  • ✅ More suitable for warmer weather and office wear
  • ✅ More affordable price point
  • ✅ Clean, uplifting scent
  • ❌ Significantly shorter longevity than EDP
  • ❌ Less projection
  • ❌ Less complex scent profile
  • ❌ May require reapplication

Price & Value

$70-100 for 100ml
Good

“A more budget-friendly option for daily wear compared to the EDP.”

Who It's For

✅ Ideal For

  • Women aged 20-45
  • Individuals who prefer bright, uplifting, and modern floral scents
  • Those who appreciate unique bottle design and a scent that stands out without being loud
  • Personality types that are optimistic, joyful, and appreciate a touch of playful elegance.

⚠️ Not Recommended For

  • Individuals who prefer heavy, oriental, or intensely woody fragrances
  • Those sensitive to even moderately strong floral or fruity notes
  • People seeking a deep, dark, or overtly sensual scent profile.

The Family

Pleats Please L'Eau issey-miyake

A lighter, fresher interpretation with aquatic and green notes.

Pleats Please Eau de Toilette issey-miyake

A potentially lighter concentration of the original EDP, offering a slightly different nuance.

Explore More

🔍 Similar Fragrances

Lancôme Idôle Eau de Parfum Lancôme

Shares a modern, bright, and uplifting floral profile with a focus on rose and pear.

Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau de Parfum Marc Jacobs

Offers a similar youthful, airy, and floral-fruity character with a playful vibe.

Gucci Bloom Eau de Parfum Gucci

While more overtly floral, it shares a sense of modern, sophisticated femininity and a vibrant bouquet.

Nina Ricci Nina Eau de Toilette Nina Ricci

Features a prominent apple note and a sweet, fruity-floral character that appeals to a similar audience.

💡 Clone Alternatives

Zara Gardenia Zara

Often cited by users for its resemblance to the bright, floral-fruity DNA.

Versace Dylan Turquoise Versace

Users sometimes draw comparisons for its fresh, fruity, and slightly floral character, though less complex.

❤️ You May Also Enjoy

L'Eau d'Issey Eau de Toilette issey-miyake

For those who appreciate Issey Miyake's clean and refreshing style.

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre Chanel

Offers a sophisticated yet accessible fruity-floral profile.

Hermès Jour d'Hermès Hermès

For a refined and elegant floral experience.

Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia Jo Malone London

If the pear note is particularly appealing.

🧪 Layering Ideas

🏆 Final Verdict

Issey Miyake Pleats Please Eau de Parfum is a triumph of modern perfumery, translating a bold fashion statement into an equally distinctive fragrance. It's not a scent for the shy; it announces itself with a joyful, vibrant energy that is both uplifting and sophisticated. The unique blend of crisp fruits and a blooming floral heart, grounded by a subtle woody-musk base, creates a scent that is both memorable and wearable. Its impressive longevity and pleasing projection ensure you’ll enjoy its cheerful aura throughout the day. If you’re looking for a fragrance that breaks the mold, offers exceptional quality, and comes in an iconic bottle, Pleats Please is a worthy addition to any collection. It’s a scent that embodies positivity and modern elegance, perfect for those who want their fragrance to reflect their vibrant spirit.

issey-miyakedesigner fragrancewomen's perfumefloral perfumefruity perfumemodern fragrance